I have had never luck with those, but MIG (welded nut) is helped always.
Winch Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jvincig01
- Start date
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Our guys use nail as shear pin
Wow, that's amazing. An 8 mm diameter shear pin has four times the shear strength of a 4mm pin, which means those older winches must have been much stronger.
I wanted to send you a picture of that later model welded spider joint.
Kevo
Kevo
where did you find that?!!
On mud. That's the one I told you I bought for you, if you need it.
Kevo
Kevo
Probably cheaper to get the new one. Get a quote from him first.
I paid $60 shipped. $50 shipped to you if you need it.
Kevo
Kevo
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #71
Awesome!! Thank you! I am going to try and take mine apart tomorrow. I will get back to you once I talk to the welder next week about fixing the housing cracks and see what he says about covering the hole on mine.
I am patiently waiting for my parts to come back from being media blasted... dropped them off today.
Not being critical, but be aware:
Your current yoke, shaft and pin has been modified, the older shear pins are 4mm.
5/16" (.313") is smaller than 8mm (.315") and will fit loosely in a hole for an 8mm.
The caliper picture seems to indicate between .324" and .325" diameter for your pin?
A loose (floppy) connection adds bending stress to shear stress, decreasing the load the same shear pin can withstand with a tight fit. (not a bad thing, just the way it is)
Won't make a recommendation here other than realize if you use a 5/16 steel bolt something else will fail before the bolt. Upgrading the material of a stock 4mm pin has gotten me all I ever needed out of one of these winches in a stock application. I use a 1/4" high strength brass pin to protect another that has a non-stock PTO driveshaft, haven't had a chance to break it yet to see if my math is correct.
SKF BR30206 BCA/NTN 30206 = 97600-30206
Make a metal disc and stake it in the spider (it only needs to seal slightly better than the caps to force grease out there). Or snag the one from Kevos. Your welder may tell you that welding your spider will ruin it.
Also if you're going to weld the housing cracks, get a cheap roller bearing of the same outside diameter of the seal, press it in the seat, and the housing inside diameter (and cracks) will return close to original.....or break the piece off and it really will need to be welded.
Your current yoke, shaft and pin has been modified, the older shear pins are 4mm.
5/16" (.313") is smaller than 8mm (.315") and will fit loosely in a hole for an 8mm.
The caliper picture seems to indicate between .324" and .325" diameter for your pin?
A loose (floppy) connection adds bending stress to shear stress, decreasing the load the same shear pin can withstand with a tight fit. (not a bad thing, just the way it is)
Won't make a recommendation here other than realize if you use a 5/16 steel bolt something else will fail before the bolt. Upgrading the material of a stock 4mm pin has gotten me all I ever needed out of one of these winches in a stock application. I use a 1/4" high strength brass pin to protect another that has a non-stock PTO driveshaft, haven't had a chance to break it yet to see if my math is correct.
SKF BR30206 BCA/NTN 30206 = 97600-30206
Make a metal disc and stake it in the spider (it only needs to seal slightly better than the caps to force grease out there). Or snag the one from Kevos. Your welder may tell you that welding your spider will ruin it.
Also if you're going to weld the housing cracks, get a cheap roller bearing of the same outside diameter of the seal, press it in the seat, and the housing inside diameter (and cracks) will return close to original.....or break the piece off and it really will need to be welded.
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #73
Not being critical, but be aware:
Your current yoke, shaft and pin has been modified, the older shear pins are 4mm.
5/16" (.313") is smaller than 8mm (.315") and will fit loosely in a hole for an 8mm.
The caliper picture seems to indicate between .324" and .325" diameter for your pin?
A loose (floppy) connection adds bending stress to shear stress, decreasing the load the same shear pin can withstand with a tight fit. (not a bad thing, just the way it is)
Won't make a recommendation here other than realize if you use a 5/16 steel bolt something else will fail before the bolt. Upgrading the material of a stock 4mm pin has gotten me all I ever needed out of one of these winches in a stock application. I use a 1/4" high strength brass pin to protect another that has a non-stock PTO driveshaft, haven't had a chance to break it yet to see if my math is correct.
SKF BR30206 BCA/NTN 30206 = 97600-30206
Make a metal disc and stake it in the spider (it only needs to seal slightly better than the caps to force grease out there). Or snag the one from Kevos. Your welder may tell you that welding your spider will ruin it.
Also if you're going to weld the housing cracks, get a cheap roller bearing of the same outside diameter of the seal, press it in the seat, and the housing inside diameter (and cracks) will return close to original.....or break the piece off and it really will need to be welded.
This is really helpful. Thank you!
Regarding the pin...
Below is a picture before I attempted to drill it out. It doesn't seem modified but you're probably right. It was a pain in the you know what to punch out so I drilled shallow holes from both sides and then pulled it off. I then was able to push the pin through the shaft clean using a punch.
The reason I didn't punch it through before drilling is because the pin appeared to be slightly bent... like it didn't shear as it should have. That said, I did a horrible job drilling one side out and it created a little too much room. I am contemplating welding the collar and shaft hole closed and then having my buddy who has a machine shop drill new holes for me. Sounds like going to 4mm is the right choice.
Regarding the housing cracks...
I really like your idea of putting a bearing in there to shore up the wall before brazing. I am a little worried about breaking it but that idea does make a lot of sense. My machine shop friend said he could make it perfectly round again for me but that means he would be taking a little off the inside. It is just barely out of round right now but I am pretty sure I can get a seal in the way it is.
Many folks run a larger pin or bolt. Just be aware what you're really risking by doing so. I'd start small and work up if you need it.
If the housing were mine I'd put some JB in the cracks and try to resize it and close the cracks. Welding it and turning the inside is a good option too but may leave you with more cleanup on the outside if you care what it looks like.
All just my opinion.
If the housing were mine I'd put some JB in the cracks and try to resize it and close the cracks. Welding it and turning the inside is a good option too but may leave you with more cleanup on the outside if you care what it looks like.
All just my opinion.
I would not used a hardened or SS pin for the shear pin. I would use a weak/soft pin, like the OEM one. I have broken a number of shear pins over the years, and they definitely limit how hard you can pull with the winch.
In other PTO winch threads on Mud, the discussion was to drill out the shear pin passage and use a 1/4x20 bolt to beef up the winch's pulling power, but that transfers the possible damage to other components. If your winch is mostly for show (meaning that you won't be extracting yourself regularly with it), I would install a soft metal pin (of about any sort) and not worry about it.
I used to order late model pins at the dealer, but the average parts shmoe would have a lot of trouble finding the part number.
In other PTO winch threads on Mud, the discussion was to drill out the shear pin passage and use a 1/4x20 bolt to beef up the winch's pulling power, but that transfers the possible damage to other components. If your winch is mostly for show (meaning that you won't be extracting yourself regularly with it), I would install a soft metal pin (of about any sort) and not worry about it.
I used to order late model pins at the dealer, but the average parts shmoe would have a lot of trouble finding the part number.
@jvincig01
I wanted to do some calculations on the shear pin loading, so I'm wondering if your bronze worm gear is still accessible.
If so, could you count the teeth, and estimate the outside diameter of the worm gear on the tip of the teeth at the middle of the tooth?
I wanted to do some calculations on the shear pin loading, so I'm wondering if your bronze worm gear is still accessible.
If so, could you count the teeth, and estimate the outside diameter of the worm gear on the tip of the teeth at the middle of the tooth?
@jvincig01
Thanks for measuring it for me.
The part in your picture is the worm shaft. The gear it turns, made of bronze, is the worm gear. I am looking for the dimensions of the worm gear.
Thanks for measuring it for me.
Not sure if you’re taken that spider gear apart yet....
-I broke every u bolt retainer clip trying to take them apart. Be aware they might snap.
-I used a socket and a gear puller. I didn’t have a press handy. That would make it easier.
The zerk fitting prevents you from being able to press the bronze cup all the way out. After you get the cup partway out, slide the gear back and I put a small washer between the cup and the spider gear to take up some slack and press it the rest of the way. It’s a time consuming thing without a press
-I broke every u bolt retainer clip trying to take them apart. Be aware they might snap.
-I used a socket and a gear puller. I didn’t have a press handy. That would make it easier.
The zerk fitting prevents you from being able to press the bronze cup all the way out. After you get the cup partway out, slide the gear back and I put a small washer between the cup and the spider gear to take up some slack and press it the rest of the way. It’s a time consuming thing without a press
