Winch Restoration (1 Viewer)

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Inspected the U joint and noticed its missing something. Anyone know what goes here? I am thinking a cap and some kind of o-ring?
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Maybe where a zerk fitting went. Does it have threads?

Zerk fitting is on the other side. It doesn't have threads but rather two tack welds on the edge. I am thinking something slides under the welds. One of the welds is broken off.
 
Put a grease gun on the zerk fitting and put some grease in. If grease comes out that hole you got a problem and it needs to be plugged. No grease comes out wouldn't worry about it.
 
Put a grease gun on the zerk fitting and put some grease in. If grease comes out that hole you got a problem and it needs to be plugged. No grease comes out wouldn't worry about it.
Without the zerk you can see all the way through it.

LOL I guess that answers that.

Looks like some kind of press-fit cap/plug goes there. Strange design.
 
In the updated spider gear they weld that hole up.i agree that it must be a press in seal. Maybe consult a local driveshaft shop for one.
 
@Living in the Past Spent some time this morning calling Toyota for part 97600-30206 but it was discontinued. Found this place that has them in stock for a darn good price so I picked up 2!


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Need some advice on this. I need a new shear pin but the stock 8mm one is proving to be difficult to find. I suppose I could drill out the holes a tiny bit and go to 5/16 but I am not sure that's a good idea either. Right now one of the holes on the U joint is a little bit wider than the other side. I mean just a tiny bit wobbly with the old 8mm shear pin in there. Any recommendations on what to do?

Here are my options..

Is tapping it and running a bolt in there a good idea? If so, what size and grade bolt?

-or-

Have my friend who is a welder fill the holes and then have my other buddy who is a machinist drill new holes for me? If so, what shear pin would you recommend?

-or-

Am I overthinking this. Just throw a hardened bolt in there (with as little wiggle room as possible) with a nut on the other side and call it a day?


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@Living in the Past Spent some time this morning calling Toyota for part 97600-30206 but it was discontinued. Found this place that has them in stock for a darn good price so I picked up 2!


View attachment 2056194


Let me know if they are a good match probably order a few myself. Because of the amount of use at slower RPM then most everything in the power train would not be as concern of it not being a OEM part. Long term overheating should not be a issue. Did Toyota still have the seals?
 
Need some advice on this. I need a new shear pin but the stock 8mm one is proving to be difficult to find. I suppose I could drill out the holes a tiny bit and go to 5/16 but I am not sure that's a good idea either. Right now one of the holes on the U joint is a little bit wider than the other side. I mean just a tiny bit wobbly with the old 8mm shear pin in there. Any recommendations on what to do?

Here are my options..

Is tapping it and running a bolt in there a good idea? If so, what size and grade bolt?

-or-

Have my friend who is a welder fill the holes and then have my other buddy who is a machinist drill new holes for me? If so, what shear pin would you recommend?

-or-

Am I overthinking this. Just throw a hardened bolt in there (with as little wiggle room as possible) with a nut on the other side and call it a day?


View attachment 2056548


The wobble is not uncommon. I know some have run bolts. I would personally drill out to closest size shear pin as you can. By design this are the weakest link in the winch. It's purpose is to snap before anything in the winch or PTO breaks. Personally a loose shear pin is a thing. When it snaps it's easy to replace.
 
Not a dumb question and I'm not sure. it welded up good, so thinking steel. I never checked if it was cast iron.
 
The OEM shear pin is 4 mm in diameter. Others have reported that drilling the shear pin hole larger may weaken the yoke, leading to the failure of the yoke.
 
The OEM shear pin is 4 mm in diameter. Others have reported that drilling the shear pin hole larger may weaken the yoke, leading to the failure of the yoke.

It looks like the yoke collars changed over the years. Mine appears to be an early one (pre-67) as the collar has more bulk to it. Going through some of the images on Spector, the shear pin on mine is no longer available. However, they do sell the thinner 4mm pin for a different yoke.
 

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