Builds Wimberosa's build: The SUV of Theseus

[wimberosa]

Plowing through past the epoxy primer, filler/glaze used to level out my prior welds, every seam got seam sealer, and internal coating of all channels
with frame coating. I'm trying to get color on before the heat turns out in durango. Nothing however is even remotely as quick as I *think* it will be.

I don't do things because they are easy. I do things because I *thought* they were going to be easy.

A progress pic and the two items I'm using for internal channel coating. I'm going to hit it with the wax internally after I get color on. Check out those floor pans I used from tp auto parts. Its tight and the seams disappeared with some glaze.

 

[wimberosa]

Side project: What the inside of the 1979-1980 EGR Cooler looks like (after cleanup)

This one had enough rust inside that it was coming out the outlet pipe when I shook it (I'm replacing my manifold gaskets).
So I took this apart and got about 1.5 cups of rust and carbon out of the thing. I'm having a hard time imagining
how things survive (such as the EGR valve) with that much crud in the airflow. Two of the eight bolts twisted off
so I welded on some nuts and got everything cleaned up. The replacement bolts are M6 x 1.0 x 25mm
which I'll pick up at belmetric or bolt depot. It doesn't appear to have had a gasket between the halves but I'll
probably put some high temp gasket compound between the halves.

 

[wimberosa]

Regarding re-smog of the 1979 FJ40. This part of the project is a cold weather addendum that I knew would take me quite awhile due to sourcing all the parts. I'm currently in hiatus on painting since the temps have dropped dramatically. Thus I'll document this for posterity and the hope of helping future addicts / victims. I tend to worry that many future fj40s will fall into the (must pass smog) but may have been de-smogged in their past. Colorado (particularly the front range where I may have to end up) is requiring smog checks in certain cities. My FJ40 was de-smogged in some prior decade. There are strong opinions on both sides of the smog discussion. I will not discuss either pro or con smog in these posts. These are just the facts on how I plan on doing a re-smog.

The pics I'll be posting will hopefully be more illuminating as time passes. Most of the pics I see of smog lines and components are too crowded (complete systems) to see whats going on....so this will be a set of incremental pics as they are installed.

My starting status:

No smog. A fairly clean set of caps and deletes of all systems. Wrong (earlier version) of intake and exhaust manifold with non-existent EGR ports. An existing smog computer that @Engineer8000 is vetting for correctness. A 1979 2F Emission Control Repair Manual in hand (invaluable). The website japan-parts.eu which outlines major components with part numbers and pictures (invaluable). In particular this section is currently getting dog-eared by my daily examination:

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 55FJ40LV-KCJA - TOOL-ENGINE-FUEL - VACUUM PIPING | Japan Parts EU

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 55FJ40LV-KCJA , VACUUM PIPING

www.japan-parts.eu

Pictures and text to follow.

 

[wimberosa]

To give you an example of why japan-parts.eu parts document figures can be so valuable....todays task was calculating how much smog hose I would actually need. If you look at the vacuum lines sub-section (URL posted previous post) you can see the exact part number and the length of the line to cut is the part number addenum. For example (L = 240) is a 240mm length of line. I'll be using any OEM part I can find with supplemental hose sourced from McMaster Carr.

Toyota hoses unavalable:
90445-11029/11035/11034
These hoses are varying length part numbers of a hose that is (6mm ID x 10mm OD)
The total length of these hoses are (70mm+320mm+240mm+380mm) = 1010mm = 3.4feet
McMaster order is thus:
5 feet of 5041K74 High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Tubing for Air and Water Durometer 70A, 6 mm ID, 10 mm OD

Toyota hose available:
95411-10530 (ABV to vacuum switching valve specific).
90999-92003 (600mm length)
The 90999 hose is used in 38 different places of varying lengths from 50mm up to 600mm. The static length hose that Toyota supplies is 600mm, thus we'll need to compute how much of this we need.

For steel supply (or wood lumber) cut optimization I used opticutter.com. Its a website that allows you to put in your stock measurements (this case is 600mm) and all the sub-units you need to cut (the 50mm to 600mm cuts in the 38 different hoses) and it will spit out a cutting formula and how much stock you need. The formula claims I can make these hoses out of 10 units of the 600mm hose. I will probably buy 12 units of this hose because its a very good deal. Note that opticutter provides a visual cut diagram for each piece of stock you are cutting (not pictured)

 

[wimberosa]

First components pic of the re-smog. 4 items are added here.
(1) smog pump (2) smog belt from sor.com (3) smog pump lower bracket (4) smog pump upper adjusting bracket

Note that this upper smog pump adjusting bracket is for a NON power-steering setup. The smog pump bracket with oem power steering is slightly different and attaches to the p/s bracket. In this installation the adjusting arm is attached to one of the lower water pump bolts. The water pump bolt is replaced by a 10mm x 1.5mm x 55mm. The bolt grows in length to 55mm to accomodate a spacer (barely visible between the adjusting arm and the water pump housing. The spacer (nla) is 7mm by my calculation. I just cut a spacer for a 10mm bolt at 7mm depth for this. Visually everything looks like its lining up nicely. The lower swing bracket fits through a little gap at the motor mount.

 

[wimberosa]

Here's the second part of the kit we'll be using. This is the abv/asv + vacuum switching valves + high altitude compensator.
Item (1) is a vacuum control valve. Two of these are on the 1979. One sits here near the HAC and one sits on the other side
of the air cleaner. This black/white is original OEM but there is a replacement that @Racer65 has with one of the ports going
in the opposite direction but equivalent function (yay!). Item (2) is the HAC. Item (3) is an electrically activated switching valve.
For the 1979 this is Nippon Denso part 084600-1530 and I (think) matches Toyota part 89570-60040 (part match not verified but
visually the part looks correct). Item (4) is the abv/asv. Note to the right is an FJ60 abv/asv for comparison. The FJ60
abv/asv is slightly different due to routing/function revisions. I'm showing it here in case you haven't seen the differences.

Note also: If you were to start out from scratch on a 1979 resmog....it may be easier to put a 1981 FJ60 smog system
on the 1979. The parts are slightly more readily available (slightly) and there is at least one 1979 unicorn part that will
be shown in an upcoming post.

 

[wimberosa]

Next up is the air rail we'll be using. Note that most air rails are pretty much the same from 1979 to its nearest 1980ish siblings. The differences exist in the position of the port leading to the abv/asv and whether it has a heat shield on it. I believe you should be able to use any of the sibling year air rails. The following pic is an air rail that looks like a 1979 (no shield)...but is actually a 1981 air rail with the heat shield cut off (don't ask). Apparently later revisions of this rail had a heat shield perhaps because it was prone to touching (and melting) certain wires. In this installation I added a bit of heat shield wrap to simulate the same shielding concept.

Note here you will need to make sure you have a good 1way valve (still available left side of pic) on the pump port. If you don't have a good valve you can apparently get hot air back flow into your abv/asv and destroy it. As an aside...if you see an abv/asv part available and it has a strange burnt or completely blasted port then I'd stay away from it....could be a victim of this apocryphal situation I've described.

 

[wimberosa]

Unicorn part number 1 for the 1979. The thermostat housing upper hemisphere has a bvsc port on it that appears on no other year model. The lower hemisphere appears in the fj60 series (perhaps others also). Luckily I had an upper hemisphere that could be salvaged and added to the fj60 lower. The two lower bvsc parts themselves are still available from toyota (blue and violet). The upper bvsc (pink) is nla but city racer has a reproduction. These bvsc are not on yet because I don't want to inadvertantly bump and break one.

Potential options for the upper hemisphere if there are no other supply sources. (1) There is an unused port on the head (sibling to temp sensor port) that could perhaps be used for that bvsc (unfortunately thats on the wrong side of the thermostat) (2) I've notice that some sniper efi systems modify the lower thermostat housing and weld in a new port. So theoretically you could do something similar for the upper hemisphere. (3) go to the fj60 smog setup as previously mentioned.

 

[psmbfuer]

Coming along quite well wimberosa. Very clean with great details

 

[wimberosa]

Another pic of how things mount up (usually unseen under the mass of smog paraphernalia).
If you are dealing with an existing EGR assembly that's been on for decades, I suspect you will
be very lucky to wrench any sub-unit of the EGR off the truck (EGR valve, EGR cooler, intake/exhaust connections).
Because the EGR cooler ports will be seized you may have to deal with disconnect of the
whole EGR assembly and deal with it on a bench (36mm, 32mm, 27mm wrenches). The most wiggle
room (first off, last on) is at the exhaust port to EGR cooler pipe.

Electrolysis to get the EGR pipes, ferrules, connectors to all loosen can become your best friend.
Everything in these connections is now a happy camper

 

[wimberosa]

It turns out that refreshing a charcoal canister is actually pretty easy. So if you are thinking of
tossing your old one and going to that plastic gm replacement....here's an alternate option for
you.

My canister was leaking charcoal from practically every port. The thing was kaput ... so time
to bust it open. Take your angle grinder with a flap disc or other and slowly grind down the
side of the top crimp. The point is to leave as much of the raised edge but still remove the
crimp. After you get it where you can see the joint....get a thin metal wedge and work it apart.
The top will pop out with some minor force. The top is not glued in or other...just a tight fit.

On the inside of this thing is two metal perforated disks with filter material attached to each.
The upper and lower disks act like a sandwich and between the sandwich is the charcoal. You can see in
my canister the filter material was separated from the metal disk and allowed charcoal to
shift and go everywhere in the can. Normally above the top and below the bottom disk is
just an air well (plus spring on the top). Note there is no "vacuum" or air pressure other than
normal atmospheric pressure as the bottom tube is completely open.

I peeled off the remaining old filter and then cut a piece of thin filter felt. This filter felt is the
same stuff I'm using for the EGR modulator filter as well as the HAC filter material. Then
spot glue the filter to the metal disks in a couple of spots so it won't shift around. Put
new activated carbon in between the disks. Stretch the spring a bit if yours got compressed
like mine. Put the top back on and use your favorite glue. In my case I just used some RTV
in case I have to pop it back apart at some point in the future.

A quick coat of paint and I think the thing is ready for another 40 years. Unless you really
knew what you were looking at...I doubt you'd even know it had ever been refreshed.

 

[psmbfuer]

I'm not working on a charcoal canister at the moment, but great details and process for the repair, should I need this in the future.

Great work Wimberosa.

 

[wimberosa]

A few posts about what NOT to do...

Don't build an intake preheat flange like this. I started out with 14 gauge 3"x3" square stainless tube.
I decided to pie cut the tube to produce a 90deg bend. To do that was super fiddly and took loads of
time. Really just cutting two 45s and welding the two legs together would have sufficed. However,
I suspect this will never fit in a general manner if you have power steering sitting beside this flange or
your exhaust manifold wings are aligned slightly different. The manifold joint for this front wing is also actually
slightly bigger than 3 inches ... so I had to cut and spread the tube at the joint.

What to do?.... Go with regular sheet metal. It will give you loads more room to wiggle. If you could press the metal into the correct form it would be much better than welding it. I may explore how to do this more generally because we need something like this for the NLA flange. This is a post about what not to do unless you want to blow loads of unnecessary time.

 

[wimberosa]

For replacement smog hoses I've been attempting to go with viper super flex silicone hose. I had measured the hose ID at 19mm at the ASV one of my smog pump ports. However I've now realized there are 2 different hose sizes. The hose on the inlet side of the pump (leading from the air intake) is actually 25mm ID. So really two different hose sizes (3/4") and (1") would do this appropriately. This also led me to realize my smog pump is not what I thought it was. The exact pump for the 1979 is 17610-61020 (federal spec) which has the inlet port closest to the engine block. I seem to have part number 17610-61010 (1975-1978) with a 3 bolt pulley. The data on that pump leads me to believe it MAY have come with a 3 bolt pulley or a center nut pulley. The "data" is obscure.

Anyway...what I have will work....however it leads me to suggest that some future victim needs to investigate that their smog pump ports are what they really think they are. The INLET port is slightly larger than the outlet port. These smog pumps in this era have the ports in different positions and even though the pump looks physically very similar...they can fool you easily.

 

[wimberosa]

For the 1979 there are 3 (instead of 1 or 2) vacuum ports on the intake manifold. I had to tap a new port
on this intake to get the third port. It is almost assuredly true (Toyota Matt) that there is a JIS refinement for these port threads....however the 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) is almost a perfect match for tapping this in the softer metal intake. Tap it 7 or 8 full thread lengths as opposed to threading the complete pilot hole.

Also ... I HAD PREVIOUSLY thought I would try to picture each step of the hose routing in case someone needed to replicate it. HOWEVER...I would highly suggest you not try to follow someone else's work here as I truly believe that people are getting some things mixed up in some prior posts. Buy/Get the correct Emissions Control Repair Manual and follow the schematic diagram. It is super helpful to write down on a piece of paper how you've physically linked up each component of the emissions. Then compare it against the manual's schematic diagram. The manual has a compact representation with the different components spread out in different places than the physical places on the engine. So you need to take care and ensure your routing matches the manual's schematic. The routing is a more convoluted jumble in real life and comparing your paper routing to the schematic is helpful. In my case I'm following the schematic on page 4-4 of the 1979 2F Emission Control Repair Manual.

 

[psmbfuer]

For the 1979 there are 3 (instead of 1 or 2) vacuum ports on the intake manifold. I had to tap a new port
on this intake to get the third port. It is almost assuredly true (Toyota Matt) that there is a JIS refinement for these port threads....however the 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) is almost a perfect match for tapping this in the softer metal intake. Tap it 7 or 8 full thread lengths as opposed to threading the complete pilot hole.

Also ... I HAD PREVIOUSLY thought I would try to picture each step of the hose routing in case someone needed to replicate it. HOWEVER...I would highly suggest you not try to follow someone else's work here as I truly believe that people are getting some things mixed up in some prior posts. Buy/Get the correct Emissions Control Repair Manual and follow the schematic diagram. It is super helpful to write down on a piece of paper how you've physically linked up each component of the emissions. Then compare it against the manual's schematic diagram. The manual has a compact representation with the different components spread out in different places than the physical places on the engine. So you need to take care and ensure your routing matches the manual's schematic. The routing is a more convoluted jumble in real life and comparing your paper routing to the schematic is helpful. In my case I'm following the schematic on page 4-4 of the 1979 2F Emission Control Repair Manual.

Great information and thanks for documenting all of this wimberosa. I imagine there will be some changes moving back to a 78, but this should serve as an excellent baseline. Keep you the great work.

 

[wimberosa]

Here is an update on my build with a new exhaust tacked in...but not completely welded yet.
This is an "over the frame crossover" to the outside of the frame for the catalytic converter.
The 1979+ normally routes the exhaust down pipe as an "under the frame" crossover. You can
do this multiple ways from the manifold to the cat. I did it by going into the rear side of the
fender well and under the fender lip, with a jog bag up to the cat. Its also possible to route closer
to the floor pan and not enter the fender well. I currently do no have my tub sitting on the
frame, so I did the safest and easiest clearance option I could.

Unfortunately the whole thing all the way back to the muffler is very complicated for the 1979+.
I feel like the part exiting the cat....getting by the leaf spring hanger and tire then crossing back
under and up is the most complicated and tedious part of this exhaust. Sum total (6 pieces
to get from manifold to CAT and 8 pieces to get from CAT to muffler)

I'm using a version of the OEM hangers that I've rebuilt for the cat area. I've never actually seen
these hangers on the 40 that were not rusted out and missing the cradle that rests in the middle
of the hoop. So ... based on the parts catalog, this is what I "think" the cradle actually looks like
and how I fab'd it. Note this cradle actually rests on some type of ceramic washer to isolate the
hoop from the cradle. I have not added the ceramic washer yet....but will.

Here's a compendium of exhaust pics for reference regarding the traversal I made.

 

[wimberosa]

I did all this exhaust work with the following items.

2.5" stainless steel exhaust pipe with mandrel bends from manifold to tailpipe.
Purchased from Speedway Motors. Really happy with the quality of the bends
in this mandrel kit. It included 12 mandrel bends and I used almost everything.
Very little of the straight pipe is needed.

• Speedway Motors Stainless Steel Exhaust Bend Kit, 2-1/2 Inch (Part #91013828)

I went with a walker CARB cat 80905. It has 2.25" inlet/outlet. This was unfortunate
downsizing as I was intending to keep it at 2.5" all the way through. However there
are very few CARB compliant cats that are approved for the pre-OBDII land cruisers.
This is the second cat i attempted to work with. I got another direct-fit CAT (for the
1979 FJ40) from another CAT supplier. I was not happy with that cat as it was not
remotely square end to end and there was weld slag in the internal cell area. Thankfully
they respected their return policy with no issues and I switched to the walker universal
cat and welded it myself. Very happy with the walker setup.

• Walker CalCat CARB 80905 Universal Catalytic Converter (2.25 Inlet ID 2.25 Outlet ID)

BTW...if you want to know what CAT actually is compliant with your vehicle ... if you
are in a state that mandates a CAT style... then you can find it at arb.parts. Here
is the link for the 1979 compliant CATs in colorado (we're tagging along with NY and CA)

1979 Toyota Land-Cruiser Catalytic Converters

arb.parts

The muffler I'm using is a Ford truck style from the 80s.

• Walker 17160 - SoundFX Steel Round Aluminized Exhaust Muffler
  (2.5" Offset ID 2.5" Offset OD. 20" Length)

The flanges to connect the cat and the muffler up are the 3.4" bolt pattern
that toyota uses. These aren't the exact same as the OEM flanges because
the OEM ones have a well where the compression gasket sits in. The flanges
I'm using have the correct bolt pattern but are flat across the face. Close
enough to a part that is NLA!

• Vibrant Performance 3-Bolt 2.5 Inch Exhaust Flange 1482S
• Vibrant Performance Exhaust Flange Gaskets 1462

 

[wimberosa]

Lastly the flange at the manifold is that odd 3 bolt offset flange. Matt over at vintageteqparts.com
has that flange available.

 

[psmbfuer]

Thanks for the parts references and sources - I expect that some of these will come in handy down the road - well done.