Will not shift out of park (10 Viewers)

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Suddenly my rig will not shift out of park, without pressing the manual override button. The button on the side of the shifter handle does not depress.
I’ve pulled apart the center console and see an assortment of parts that comprises the mechanism. Something must has jiggered out of place. Anybody have a good pic from the PS or fixed this in their own rig ?
 
Another point to follow up on. You will want to know why you have a blown brake fuse. For me it was related to the janky port installed 4 pin trailer harness. All was quiet and fine until I tried using it and my fuse went. Found poor wire taps behind the quarter panels to the tail lights.
 
Same problem here -- 1991 FJ80, will not shift out of park without override, brake fuse blows instantly upon application of brake pedal.

Bulbs were blown, have been replaced. Brake controller disconnected, no visible problems with trailer wiring.

What's the next place to look?
 
Same problem here -- 1991 FJ80, will not shift out of park without override, brake fuse blows instantly upon application of brake pedal.

Bulbs were blown, have been replaced. Brake controller disconnected, no visible problems with trailer wiring.

What's the next place to look?
check the brake light bulb sockets wiring for frayed wires or something funky.
 
check the brake light bulb sockets wiring for frayed wires or something funky.
Checked. Bulb sockets and wiring look good.

Also removed all trailer harness wiring and the U-Haul connector from previous owner.

Noticed a pretty good arc at the fuse block on the most recent test as the fuse blew.

Do the fuse panels ever have problems?

Any recommendations or cautions for getting into that panel besides pulling the battery ground first?
 
They can be corroded if the windshield has been leaking. Unplugging the battery will save you hours of headache.
 
Checked. Bulb sockets and wiring look good.

Also removed all trailer harness wiring and the U-Haul connector from previous owner.

Noticed a pretty good arc at the fuse block on the most recent test as the fuse blew.

Do the fuse panels ever have problems?

Any recommendations or cautions for getting into that panel besides pulling the battery ground first?
We have two fuse panels, and they aren't known to failure points unless a leaky windshield gasket allowed to trickle down to the inside fuse box. Your carpet would have been wet if that's the case.

I'm assuming you disconnected both rear light assemblies and see if that still blows the fuse? Also, I'd pick up an assortment of resettable fuses from Amazon for this type of troubleshooting!

 
We have two fuse panels, and they aren't known to failure points unless a leaky windshield gasket allowed to trickle down to the inside fuse box. Your carpet would have been wet if that's the case.

I'm assuming you disconnected both rear light assemblies and see if that still blows the fuse? Also, I'd pick up an assortment of resettable fuses from Amazon for this type of troubleshooting!

I had no idea there was such a thing as re-settable fuses. Bought and thank you!
 
Had the same thing happen to me in the middle of a Burger King drive thru many years ago :doh:

In a panic, I yanked the tube out of a pen in my console to jab into the shift release cause I had a bunch of hangry folks behind me o_O

Kept blowing the brake light fuse :confused:

Turned out to be a shorted Hoppy :meh:

Unplugged it until a new replacement arrived
 
We have two fuse panels, and they aren't known to failure points unless a leaky windshield gasket allowed to trickle down to the inside fuse box. Your carpet would have been wet if that's the case.

I'm assuming you disconnected both rear light assemblies and see if that still blows the fuse? Also, I'd pick up an assortment of resettable fuses from Amazon for this type of troubleshooting!

Getting closer -- the only time the brake fuse blows is when the left side 1157 bulb is plugged in. No problem with right side only.

The previous owner had the trailer harness and hitch installed by U-Haul, they used those wretched snap-type taps, the blue pplastic things that clamp onto the existing wiring. All those are removed and the wires re-insulated.

When there is no bulb in the socket on the left side, everything works. With a bulb plugged in, the fuse blows.

Is there any way to take that lamp holder apart and see if it is grounding out inside?
 
Getting closer -- the only time the brake fuse blows is when the left side 1157 bulb is plugged in. No problem with right side only.

The previous owner had the trailer harness and hitch installed by U-Haul, they used those wretched snap-type taps, the blue pplastic things that clamp onto the existing wiring. All those are removed and the wires re-insulated.

When there is no bulb in the socket on the left side, everything works. With a bulb plugged in, the fuse blows.

Is there any way to take that lamp holder apart and see if it is grounding out inside?
Vampire taps are evil and anyone who uses them should be slapped. You can push the pigtail out of the bulb end of the socket and clean it, or check it with a meter for continuity.

Any Toyota online EPC will give you part numbers for any part that can be bought. @slow95z has most parts that can't be bought new.
 

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