Stalling out and not starting (1 Viewer)

[rhinocrunch]

I’m having some problems with my 1992 RHD import and looking to see if anyone has any wisdom or advice.

I recently had my LC just simply not start. Not even an attempt to turn over. Just a click and every warning light coming on. It was completely out of the ordinary and had to have it towed because I wasn’t at home. The shop it got taken to simply removed the battery terminals and reconnected, which worked so I just decided to hope that was it. It was not.

I was driving up a steep mountain canyon about 2 weeks ago and my speedometer suddenly stopped working along with my odometer and trip counter. I thought it was weird but nothing else failed so i kept driving. As I pulled into a parking spot at the ski resort, it stalled out and died. I got it to turn back on and decided i didn’t want for it to be stuck up there, so I headed back down the canyon. Halfway down it died again and I had to coast into a pullout and get it towed again. The shop looked over the vacuum lines, tested the alternator and ran some electrical tests, nothing. From what they tell me, it’s apparently the throttle body which they have since cleaned and seems to think that’s the problem. I’m not so convinced though. It can’t be the EGR system because mine was deleted by the previous owner and I’ve had the check engine light on ever since I’ve owned the vehicle. (Unless I’m wrong about this too)

Now the speedometer they believe to be because of some copper being exposed on the gauge itself and some messing with by the previous owner. I just think it’s extremely weird that both problems happened to occur at almost the exact same time. I’ll attach some picture of the gauge.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I’m trying to figure this out before a trip down to southern Utah. Thanks.

 

[BILT4ME]

I’m having some problems with my 1992 RHD import and looking to see if anyone has any wisdom or advice.

I recently had my LC just simply not start. Not even an attempt to turn over. Just a click and every warning light coming on. It was completely out of the ordinary and had to have it towed because I wasn’t at home. The shop it got taken to simply removed the battery terminals and reconnected, which worked so I just decided to hope that was it. It was not.

I was driving up a steep mountain canyon about 2 weeks ago and my speedometer suddenly stopped working along with my odometer and trip counter. I thought it was weird but nothing else failed so i kept driving. As I pulled into a parking spot at the ski resort, it stalled out and died. I got it to turn back on and decided i didn’t want for it to be stuck up there, so I headed back down the canyon. Halfway down it died again and I had to coast into a pullout and get it towed again. The shop looked over the vacuum lines, tested the alternator and ran some electrical tests, nothing. From what they tell me, it’s apparently the throttle body which they have since cleaned and seems to think that’s the problem. I’m not so convinced though. It can’t be the EGR system because mine was deleted by the previous owner and I’ve had the check engine light on ever since I’ve owned the vehicle. (Unless I’m wrong about this too)

Now the speedometer they believe to be because of some copper being exposed on the gauge itself and some messing with by the previous owner. I just think it’s extremely weird that both problems happened to occur at almost the exact same time. I’ll attach some picture of the gauge.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I’m trying to figure this out before a trip down to southern Utah. Thanks.

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What's the build date on that truck? See VIN plate.

You have the 1FZ-FE, so it mostly matches a 1993 model in the USA.

The symptoms you describe are electrical, but there is nothing on the speedometer that will make it not run.

1) check (with a multimeter) all the fuses in the dash by your knee.
2) check all the fuses under the hood the same way.
3) do you have a CEL with the key in the RUN position?
4) since it is a RHD import, does it have an EGR on it? If so, it's likely a fail point.
5) NEVER remove the two screws and try to disconnect the wiring harness for the AFM by the intake filter.
6) download the appropriate FSM from the resources section above.
7) do a diagnostic test on the AFM
8) does your truck have an alarm system on it? Good chance it has finally given up if it's the "factory" RS3000 unit.

 

[rhinocrunch]

What's the build date on that truck? See VIN plate.

You have the 1FZ-FE, so it mostly matches a 1993 model in the USA.

The symptoms you describe are electrical, but there is nothing on the speedometer that will make it not run.

1) check (with a multimeter) all the fuses in the dash by your knee.
2) check all the fuses under the hood the same way.
3) do you have a CEL with the key in the RUN position?
4) since it is a RHD import, does it have an EGR on it? If so, it's likely a fail point.
5) NEVER remove the two screws and try to disconnect the wiring harness for the AFM by the intake filter.
6) download the appropriate FSM from the resources section above.
7) do a diagnostic test on the AFM
8) does your truck have an alarm system on it? Good chance it has finally given up if it's the "factory" RS3000 unit.

Doesn’t have a build date on it but the import papers say 1992-10. The EGR has been deleted on it. And it does have an alarm system but it’s never worked.

 

[BILT4ME]

Doesn’t have a build date on it but the import papers say 1992-10. The EGR has been deleted on it. And it does have an alarm system but it’s never worked.

View attachment 3869659

View attachment 3869660

10/1992 would actually be a 1993 model.

 

[BILT4ME]

Doesn’t have a build date on it but the import papers say 1992-10. The EGR has been deleted on it. And it does have an alarm system but it’s never worked.

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View attachment 3869660

Also, you have the "bus transmission A442" and a limited slip rear differential (K295)

Those are good things.

 

[jonheld]

As with all things electrical on these vehicles, the very first thing to check/replace is the set of 3 fusible links off the positive battery terminal.
90982-08264.
These are a known issue as they are subject to vibration/fatigue and are inexpensive and easy to replace.
When you or your "mechanic" wind up breaking the junction box, the replacement is 82670-60040.

You're also missing 90175-08008 the wing nut for the air cleaner.