What's the trick to reinstalling stabilizer bar links? (1 Viewer)

[screenflicker]

Over the last couple days, I've been installing a new Icon suspension on my stock 2013 LC200. The lift is about 2.5" and (other issues aside) the last thing I need to do but can't figure out for the life of me, is reconnecting the left-hand side stabilizer bar link.

I've tried jacking up the stabilizer bar, the lower control arm, connecting the link to the LCA first, connecting the link to the stabilizer bar first, and none of it is getting me to the finish line.

The link is seated in the spot it's supposed to be, but it's in there crooked. The bolt can't make it through to the threaded side. I thought maybe lowering the vehicle off the lift might force the stabilizer bar back enough for it to pop into place but that didn't work either.

How do I get this link back in place? And unfortunately, I have to get this done tonight or tomorrow. New wheels and tires are being installed at a shop on Thursday morning.

 

[TonyP]

Loosen your KDSS valves.

 

[screenflicker]

Hey @TonyP, I loosened them three full turns before starting the install. Should/could I loosen them more to get more play from the stabilizer bar?

 

[TonyP]

No, if they're already loose leave them that way until you get the links hooked up. Don't loosen them any more than recommened. It'll ruin your day.

Try loosening the other end of the link to get it to adjust a bit better. In other words have the fasteners on but not tight.
Also, keeping the entire front off the ground and jacking up opposite side of the bar (jacking up the driver's side will generally push down on the passenger side and vice versa). Assuming the other link is attached.

Kinda hard to explain, it takes some fiddling for sure. You can muscle the bar as long as the valves are open their respective turns and there's little to no weight on the opposite wheel.

I'd call to walk you through it but I'm at work on the other side of the globe.

 

[GoISU]

Ratchet straps were used to install my KDSS relocation brackets from Slee. Crank away at whatever angle you need, front tow hooks are handy.

 

[TexAZ]

I have found this to be an amazingly helpful tool to keep around.

JobSmart 14 in. Dual Drive Spud Ratchet with Hammerhead, 3/8 x 1/2 at Tractor Supply Co.

connect the passenger side linkage if you can. use a floor jack to raise the drivers lower control arm up as close to the bottom of the linkage as you can get it.

get the linkage as close to lined up as you can. use the thin end of the spike/screwdriver/punch to go through the hole on the lower control arm and into the center of the linkage. pry the linkage end down into the bucket on the control arm. go a little further than lined up.
pull the screwdriver/punch/ratchet out and put the bolt in. use a deep socket and push the bolt whatever direction you need to adjust the linkage to get it lined up.
while pushing like mad on the back of the ratchet, slowly turn the bolt to get it started.

they are a pain in the but. every once in a while the stars align and the linkage goes right in. usually have to wrestle it though.

 

[619TOY]

I didn’t disconnect the sway bars KDSS for our lift but to realign most big suspension bolts, I can usually make it happen with a big brass drift. I use it to get leverage and not to beat on

 

[screenflicker]

Thanks for the ideas, everyone. I took some time this morning and tried a few things after I jacked up the vehicle, took off the LH/driver's side wheel, loosened the stabilizer bar bolts on the driver's side, and jacked up the passenger/RH side of the stabilizer bar.

• using a steel rebar to leverage the link in the proper direction
• using ratchet straps to pull the stabilizer bar closer to the LCA
• using a long socket on the bolt to leverage the holes to line up

Unfortunately, the holes are still not aligned. I can get the front of the holes to line up but the back of the holes don't.

This is the angle of the link and what I'm dealing with.

 

[619TOY]

That's a rubber bushing; it'll probably never realign on it's own. Using the pic as an example, I'd use a 1/2" 6 point socket and long extension to leverage the factory bolt once you've got it pushed up against the surface where the threads start. Then use the ratchet to turn the factory bolt.

You can get a lot of leverage on a big bolt like that by hand. Basically aim using the extension by hand and turn with a ratchet.

Pic is just for example using the strut/coilover bolt since I don't have any smaller sockets on me right now...

Oh, and it looks like your steering ball joint is leaking a little...

 

[LWA55DAL]

I had a similar issue when I installed my OME on my '11 200 series. It's been a while, but as I recall I loosed up the brackets that hold the stabilizer on the front of the vehicle to be able to get everything started. I think the OME install instructions actually covered this as part of the install. I had the vehicle on jack stands and raised the lower control arm with another floor jack being careful not to lift the entire vehicle off the jack stands. As I recall - this made putting the mounting brackets for the bar a bit tougher, but I was able to get the threads started and run them in.

Another option would be to put a larger breaker bar on the top to pull it down into the mount.

Good luck!

 

[screenflicker]

That's a rubber bushing; it'll probably never realign on it's own. Using the pic as an example, I'd use a 1/2" 6 point socket and long extension to leverage the factory bolt once you've got it pushed up against the surface where the threads start. Then use the ratchet to turn the factory bolt.

You can get a lot of leverage on a big bolt like that by hand. Basically aim using the extension by hand and turn with a ratchet.

I see what you're getting at. I'll give it a shot.

Oh, and it looks like your steering ball joint is leaking a little...

yeaaaaaaah. That's my fault. Happened when I thought the best way to get the new shock in was by disconnecting that ball joint. Little did I know

90% sure I didn't rip the rubber but I need to look up how to stop the leak.

 

[iwashmycar]

If you didnt rip the rubber it shouldnt leak anymore...just clean it up and watch it.

 

[screenflicker]

@619TOY That did it. Got the bolt back in place tonight and finished torquing everything up.

I want to thank everyone who offered suggestions. I've been lurking this forum for a while, researching the 200 series before I bought it and for aftermarket part suggestions & installs. What a wonderful community. You're all aces to me.

285/75R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers going on Thursday morning.

 

[Itsky]

That's a rubber bushing; it'll probably never realign on it's own. Using the pic as an example, I'd use a 1/2" 6 point socket and long extension to leverage the factory bolt once you've got it pushed up against the surface where the threads start. Then use the ratchet to turn the factory bolt.

You can get a lot of leverage on a big bolt like that by hand. Basically aim using the extension by hand and turn with a ratchet.

Pic is just for example using the strut/coilover bolt since I don't have any smaller sockets on me right now...

View attachment 1846676

Oh, and it looks like your steering ball joint is leaking a little...

Thank you for this tip! After much difficulty, this helped me to finish my install!

 

[619TOY]

Thank you for this tip! After much difficulty, this helped me to finish my install!

Awesome! Glad it helped

 

[JADANT]

Tips helped me thanks all

 

[hedd]

I have found this to be an amazingly helpful tool to keep around.

JobSmart 14 in. Dual Drive Spud Ratchet with Hammerhead, 3/8 x 1/2 at Tractor Supply Co.

connect the passenger side linkage if you can. use a floor jack to raise the drivers lower control arm up as close to the bottom of the linkage as you can get it.

get the linkage as close to lined up as you can. use the thin end of the spike/screwdriver/punch to go through the hole on the lower control arm and into the center of the linkage. pry the linkage end down into the bucket on the control arm. go a little further than lined up.
pull the screwdriver/punch/ratchet out and put the bolt in. use a deep socket and push the bolt whatever direction you need to adjust the linkage to get it lined up.
while pushing like mad on the back of the ratchet, slowly turn the bolt to get it started.

they are a pain in the but. every once in a while the stars align and the linkage goes right in. usually have to wrestle it though.

I have a similar tool and the process you followed was very close to what I did. This also worked for me. That tool is one that has been very helpful!

 

[MTNLIVIN]

Sorry to bring this old thread back. Does anyone have the part numbers for the front right (passenger side) stabilizer links bolt? (the bolt that goes into the lower control arm. thank you

 

[bloc]

Sorry to bring this old thread back. Does anyone have the part numbers for the front right (passenger side) stabilizer links bolt? (the bolt that goes into the lower control arm. thank you

Same part number on both sides

90119-14079

 

[MTNLIVIN]

thank you for getting back to me, it looks like 90119-14079 now supersedes to 90080-11672, which the Toyota website says it doesn't fit a '15 LC.