Tips to Reinstall KDSS Front Sway Bar Bolt??? (1 Viewer)

[Cruiser Weight]

Does anyone have tips to line up the end links and bolts in the lower control arm? The KDSS valves on the driver's side frame rail have been loosened 2-1/2 turns.

The link on my driver's side is in the control arm, and the bolt initially fits into the control arm, but the link is tilted a bit, preventing the threads of the bolt from engaging on the back side of the mount. The link on the passenger side is in with the threads engaged, but not tightened.

With the truck on jack stands, there is play in the bolt. I thought lowering the truck on its own weight might straighten the angle of the link a bit, but neither bolt has movement after doing so.

I have not driven the truck since lowering it onto its wheels.

Thank you for your help!

 

[bloc]

All of this is easier with weight on the front suspension so the LCA's aren't dropped out, which harms the angles getting everything lined up. If you do this be careful about where the sway bar contacts the suspension.. it is possible things will bind up.

I do the driver's side bolt first, using a 4x4 standing on top of a floor jack to push the KDSS arm up, lifting the end link above the bucket, then lower the link using the jack until the bolt lines up.

I then do the passenger side bolt.. on that side the bar will be pushing down on the bolt. I use my 1/2" breaker bar above the sway bar, below the crossmember, and pull downward, which will line the bolt up enough to start.

 

[Cruiser Weight]

All of this is easier with weight on the front suspension so the LCA's aren't dropped out, which harms the angles getting everything lined up. If you do this be careful about where the sway bar contacts the suspension.. it is possible things will bind up.

I do the driver's side bolt first, using a 4x4 standing on top of a floor jack to push the KDSS arm up, lifting the end link above the bucket, then lower the link using the jack until the bolt lines up.

I then do the passenger side bolt.. on that side the bar will be pushing down on the bolt. I use my 1/2" breaker bar above the sway bar, below the crossmember, and pull downward, which will line the bolt up enough to start.

Thank you for the tip with the 4x4, bloc! I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

For clarification, are your lower control arms resting on jack stands with the tires removed when you're working with the floor jack?

 

[bloc]

For clarification, are your lower control arms resting on jack stands with the tires removed when you're working with the floor jack?

No, I usually do the sway bar with the front wheels mounted, weight of the vehicle on the ground. The process of getting it onto the ground is where I've had to be careful about binding the bar against things.

 

[Cruiser Weight]

No, I usually do the sway bar with the front wheels mounted, weight of the vehicle on the ground. The process of getting it onto the ground is where I've had to be careful about binding the bar against things.

Gotcha.

I took a quick peek under the truck on its wheels when I left for work, and noticed both sway bar links are higher than the control arm mounts, and essentially pulling up on the bolts.

Before I give things a shot, if it matters:

1) The KDSS module valves are still open;
2) The rear tires are on the ground, too;
3) I installed Bilstein 6112s set on the 3rd mounting highest position;
4) The lower shock nuts through the control arm have not been tightened;
5) Nothing in the rear has been touched;
6) I hand-tightened the eccentric alignment bolts while the truck was on jack stands - fronts completely in and rears completely out;
7) The truck has not been moved since it was lowered onto its wheels; and
8) I did step on the sliders and bounce on each side a few times.

How do these details affect your advice?

Thanks again - I'm doing my best to learn and think through this system!

 

[Boston Mangler]

Gotcha.

I took a quick peek under the truck on its wheels when I left for work, and noticed both sway bar links are higher than the control arm mounts, and essentially pulling up on the bolts.

Before I give things a shot, if it matters:

1) The KDSS module valves are still open;
2) The rear tires are on the ground, too;
3) I installed Bilstein 6112s set on the 3rd mounting highest position;
4) The lower shock nuts through the control arm have not been tightened;
5) Nothing in the rear has been touched;
6) I hand-tightened the eccentric alignment bolts while the truck was on jack stands - fronts completely in and rears completely out;
7) The truck has not been moved since it was lowered onto its wheels; and
8) I did step on the sliders and bounce on each side a few times.

How do these details affect your advice?

Thanks again - I'm doing my best to learn and think through this system!

I also have 6112s on 3rd clip and recently did this.

WIth weight on vehicle, and KDSS valves open, i used a 2x4 to pry the swaybar up and down until it lined up.

Passenger side was easier, but neither were that bad honestly

 

[Cruiser Weight]

I also have 6112s on 3rd clip and recently did this.

WIth weight on vehicle, and KDSS valves open, i used a 2x4 to pry the swaybar up and down until it lined up.

Passenger side was easier, but neither were that bad honestly

Thanks for the tip!

What did you leverage the 2x4 against?

How does the 2x4 fit between the tires, fenders, and swaybar?

I'm wondering if loosening the eccentric bolts and rolling the truck forward will allow the front suspension to settle a bit, letting the control arms move closer in line with both sway bar links.

 

[bloc]

Pry against anything solid. The frame and crossmember right there is fine for that level of force.

LCA pivot bolts should be tightened with the vehicle at the new ride height.. so that thinking isn't out of line.

 

[Cruiser Weight]

Pry against anything solid. The frame and crossmember right there is fine for that level of force.

LCA pivot bolts should be tightened with the vehicle at the new ride height.. so that thinking isn't out of line.

Thank you for explaining how you got yours lined up.

I placed my floor jack under the driver's side of the sway bar and raised it just a bit, which allowed me to get the threads to bite.

It was a little counter intuitive for me since I thought the sway bar was already pulling up on the bolt, but the bolt became easy to turn, and I threaded it in by hand.

Thanks again!