First Landcruiser, '87 FJ60. What type of oil are you using?
What Type of Oil are you using? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Nicky V
- Start date
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Valvoline VR1 20w-50
You need 8 qts
I’ve read all the threads on this - curious on your opposition to VR1 nowadays that it’s been reformulated. Castrol Classics is unobtanium where I live it seems, and VR1 is available and relatively cheap.
No opposition at all to VR1 - it's a great oil. 1300 ppm zinc is good for 3000 miles OCIs. I wouldn't have any hesitation using it.
I just use the Castrol cuz it's amazon drop ship to my door and it's 1400 ppm. My last few oil changes, though, on my 4.0 L Jeep, (6 qts), with a very similar engine to the 2F, I've started using 4 qts of Rotella T4 10w30, 1200 ppm zinc, and two qts of Lucas Hot Rod 10w30, 2200 ppm zinc, to achieve a total of around 1500 ppm zinc, (4 x 1200 + 2 x 2200 / 6 qts) , which is about where zddp levels were when these engines were made.
Again, this can't be stressed enough, any of these oils are fine, even the ones with low zddp but high moly - what's critical is FREQUENT oil changes (3000 miles), with new quality filter, Wix, Baldwin, etc. That goes for Differentials, trans, T'case, etc. Essentially half of what the book recommends.
I just use the Castrol cuz it's amazon drop ship to my door and it's 1400 ppm. My last few oil changes, though, on my 4.0 L Jeep, (6 qts), with a very similar engine to the 2F, I've started using 4 qts of Rotella T4 10w30, 1200 ppm zinc, and two qts of Lucas Hot Rod 10w30, 2200 ppm zinc, to achieve a total of around 1500 ppm zinc, (4 x 1200 + 2 x 2200 / 6 qts) , which is about where zddp levels were when these engines were made.
Again, this can't be stressed enough, any of these oils are fine, even the ones with low zddp but high moly - what's critical is FREQUENT oil changes (3000 miles), with new quality filter, Wix, Baldwin, etc. That goes for Differentials, trans, T'case, etc. Essentially half of what the book recommends.
- Thread starter
- #6
I had trouble locating a "simple" thread on the type of oil, so I started one.. trying to learn as much as possible
Yeah, you won't find a 'simple' thread 'cuz there's 15 opinions on oil for every 10 people.
If you really want simple, just run Rotella T4 or T5 15w40, available at any Walmart for $22/gal, a good filter, change at 3K miles, and you're good.
Congratulations on your new-to-you Cruiser.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thank you, Simple as in locating the info on what works best and done. I am new to forums and most the time I am wondering if I am in the right category when searching. I want to ensure that I am getting the best oil for the truck. I need to circle back to my buddy the previous owner and see what he used. Thanks for the info.
I’ll just throw this info into the batch since it a good data point.
I used Castrol Syntec 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil in my 2F for 30 years and 250,000 miles.
Engine always ran good and started great and still had good power at 300,000 miles.
Yes — the engine developed some very slow drips past the seals using this oil. I changed the oil every 3000 miles the first 15 years, then got lazier & changed it every 5000 the last 15 years.
Internal engine parts had zero sludge after 30 years.
I used Castrol Syntec 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil in my 2F for 30 years and 250,000 miles.
Engine always ran good and started great and still had good power at 300,000 miles.
Yes — the engine developed some very slow drips past the seals using this oil. I changed the oil every 3000 miles the first 15 years, then got lazier & changed it every 5000 the last 15 years.
Internal engine parts had zero sludge after 30 years.
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
Do you prefer T-4, T-5 or T-6 Rotella?
It's always been T 4 because that's cheaper than T 6. I don't see the need to go synthetic on a 2F especially with leaks. I also gave the wrong weight, it's 15-40.
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
Makes sense! When I went down the “what oil to use” rabbit hole I landed on T-5 cause it checked both boxes of Dino and Tech. But maybe I’m just really embracing my indecision
Second Rotella T4 15w-40. It's cheap, readily available, and has enough zinc to keep the 2F happy.
Rotella T4 and similar oils have enough zinc compound to keep a 2F happy, for ~3000 miles. After about 3K miles, those compounds are consumed to the point where they're no longer sufficient. This is why the 3K mile OCI is so critical, and even then, the rate at which the anti-wear additives are consumed will depend greatly on how heavy you are on the skinny pedal. Yes, the 2F isn't a racy engine, but it has big main bearings. Big engine bearings chew up oil.
After following and watching 'The Oil Geek' on YT and studying his tests, I would now say a better and simple oil is the Mobil 1 15w-50. It has the lowest wear numbers and is Gas Engine rated only, as the formulations for Diesel Oils have changed enough to now make them less desirable for gassers.
Either that or the Castrol Classic 20w50, but M1 is way easier to find (even at Costco sometimes) and is probably better being full syn and when on sale, costs about the same, in gallon jugs.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
@Spike Strip I like the easy availability of M1 15-50. A couple of questions for you please…What are your thoughts on:
1) it’s Zinc amount if you know.
2) how does it fare with it being Syn & maybe leaking more.
I’d like to feel comfortable using it because of its easily availability @ Walmart etc. Sometimes finding Shell Rotella T4 etc is hard to find. Mobil 1 is pretty common.
1) it’s Zinc amount if you know.
2) how does it fare with it being Syn & maybe leaking more.
I’d like to feel comfortable using it because of its easily availability @ Walmart etc. Sometimes finding Shell Rotella T4 etc is hard to find. Mobil 1 is pretty common.
Zinc in the mobile 1 is sufficient, I think around 1200 PPM or a little more. Good for a 5k OCI.
My personal experience is it doesn't matter what you run, if there's a leak it still leaks. A full synthetic doesn't make it more or less.
I'm going to switch to the M1 15w50 next time I change the oil. It's easy to find around here, too
My personal experience is it doesn't matter what you run, if there's a leak it still leaks. A full synthetic doesn't make it more or less.
I'm going to switch to the M1 15w50 next time I change the oil. It's easy to find around here, too
John McVicker
SILVER Star
@Spike Strip Thanks, I’ve got 1 more Rotella oil change on the shelf & then I may try the Mobil 15-50. I’ve considered this for some time but I had those 2 concerns. I know it’s a good oil & much easier to find,
