What to look for when buying a 1987 Land Cruiser? (1 Viewer)

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New to forums, and there’s great info on here but later this week I’m going to check out an 87’ with 160k miles, and a 5 spd trans. It has rust on the passenger side in the rear on the roof and the interior looks fine from pictures. Is there any advice you can share for what to look at before I buy.
Thanks!
 
The FJ60 is one of the most basic and capable vehicles ever built. You need to look for things that could go bad on any 30 year old truck. The one weak link for the 60 is the emission system. The 60 was one of the last vehicles produced with a carburetor and required a complicated system of add-ons and a bajillion hoses to meet emission specs. I'd start there. And, find out who installed the 5 speed.
 
If I remember correctly some 1987 FJ60’s came with 5speeds as an option.
So could have been it is an original 5speed or installed after.
Look for excessive oil leaks and or ehaust leaks. And if it idle’s smoothly.
Rust is a major problem on these trucks.
Mic ethat it has some pretty low miles on it.
Post some pics of you can.
And good luck
 
Rust is the enemy, check rear of frame for rust in the c-channels each side of the spare tire carrier, ask about maintenance records.
 
It's pretty hard to mess up a 5 speed install in an 87. I tried to and it didn't work.

I wouldn't worry. Rust can be fixed if the price is low enough.
 
I could write a book on all the things to look for. If you are just using it for hardcore wheeling and don't care about leaks getting inside from the roof ...go for it. slap some fiberglass filler in the holes and have fun. If you want a daily driver keep looking.
 
If I remember correctly some 1987 FJ60’s came with 5speeds as an option.
So could have been it is an original 5speed or installed after.
Look for excessive oil leaks and or ehaust leaks. And if it idle’s smoothly.
Rust is a major problem on these trucks.
Mic ethat it has some pretty low miles on it.
Post some pics of you can.
And good luck

Not in the USA. Everywhere but here. Who needs a 5th gear in the 80's with 55mph speed limits across the country...

It's all based on price.
Rusty... Under $2k. Not rusty... over $5k. It more than likely needs work or else it's $20k. The more you pay for the cruiser the less you pay for tools.
 
Good advice has been given on avoiding a rusty rig. Listing a 5 speed could be a matter of interpretation. Does it actually have a H55F, true 5 speed (5 forward + 1 reverse), or a H42, 4 forward + 1 reverse = 5?

Great point here IMO. I have actually seen where folks list any manual as a 5 speed because thats what they normally see. Or they list a bunch of cars and all the listings overlap. Copy and paste from ad to ad and stuff gets mixed up or they really just don't know any better and list as a 5-speed. You get there and its actually just the normal 4-speed we would expect. Honest mistake maybe but worth confirming.

I did not see where anyone else offered this up, but I would take a vacuum guage and hook it up while the engine is running. You would be able to tell all manner of overall engine condition with one of those. Harbor Frieght sells a decent one if you don't already have one.

I'll echo what others have said here. Rust is a Land Cruisers Kryptonite. If the rust you can see is extensive, the rust you can't is prolly worse. Would need to be stopped. If you are not inclined to fix it yourself, or do not have the skills, that might get expensive and that would need to be considered in any deal you put together. But if the price it right it might be worth it to take a chance. I admittedly don't have the tools or skills to handle extensive rust myself so a rusted out 60 series was a non-starter for me. But if you do, then rust might be a non-issue, especially if the purchase price is right.

While conventional thinking says lower mileage trucks are a safer buy, If I had it to do again, I might have gotten one that had higher miles but lots more work done (mine was purchased with 170K on the clock). They usually cost more initially because of the low miles and can end up costing more down the road as many of the wear items that should be replaced haven't been. Unless you know the trucks maintenance history as others have said, you can count on replacing tons of stuff to baseline it. Anything on a 30+year old truck is ripe for replacing and with a lower mileage truck perhaps folks did not take the time to replace things that should have been done. The miles are low and nothing is leaking so why touch it? Age alone can take its toll on the various wear items on a vehicle like this, even if the miles are low warranting their replacement. If the seller has not done this, and if you are taking care of the Cruiser as it deserves to be taken care of, that cost all falls on you. Lots of coolant plumbing on these vehicles and the cost to replace just hoses on these can really add up. Ask me how I know. Lots of opinions on which way to go here. Hopefully you can get maintenance history on it. HTH.
 
Hi, We love our 1987. Extremely dependable and trailers well. Simple to work on. Pollution equipment and hoses are getting old , if you can get rid of it. Very little wears out on this cruiser. Mike
 
Usually when roof rust is involved, there’s more rust hidden that you can’t see. Anytime there’s that much rust, I consider the truck either a trail rig, or a parts rig. In some cases, it may be just a temporary driver that you can use until the seat falls through the floor.

Unless your a serious hobbiest with metal and fabrication skills, saving a rusty truck will be an exercise in frustration and a heavy burden on your wallet. Again, if you’re looking for a trail rig or a temporary driver, don’t worry. Buy it cheap and run the wheels off her.

1500-2500 is the number you’re looking for on a rusty rig. I consider a rusty roof to be on the extreme end of what I would tolerate at the 2500 dollar range. If it’s just a bubble here and there, it can be fixed with minimal effort, moderate rust will require a roof swap to do it right. Not a small effort.

Have you seen this one?

For Sale - Pristine 1983 FJ60 aka: Cream Puff - TEXAS

;)
 
well there is no such thing as rust free 60, not in 2019. Every 60 has rust forming in the seams, cause they are bare metal and spot welded with sh_T metal. Even desert cruisers have some specks of rust in the joints if never treated with oil.

You will most likely have rust in the rockers, wheel arches and tail gates. Roof is not fun to get rust on. I would look at the frame for perforation rust or heavy rust.

The c channels at the back look worse that they actually are, and can be changed out. But rust around the shock mounts is bad, especially holes.

Know that every 60 has some sort of rust (may not have popped yet) but it can be slowed down with corrosion inhibitors. How much rust a person can tolerate is the question. I cannot tolerate visible rust. I have to grind it off, treat it, and paint. My under carriage is sprayed with oil.
 
If you are handy, roof rust can be fixed. Remember , the rust you see is only the tip of it. It is always more involved once you strip it down. Mine had minor roof rust but the truck had no other rust. I fixed it and am very happy with the outcome. Check out my build thread (in my signature line) and there is a section on my rust repair. Good luck,:cheers:.
 

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