What to look for in V8 FJ62 for sale (1 Viewer)

What would you pay?

  • $4000 or less

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $5000

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • $6000

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $7000 and above

    Votes: 7 87.5%

  • Total voters
    8

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Joined
Mar 20, 2017
Threads
6
Messages
52
Location
Steamboat Springs, CO
Hey everybody, been in the 80 series tech forum a bit trying to get opinions on a few 80's for sale and joining the Land Cruiser club. I've been scrolling for months and just haven't seemed to find the perfect match yet so I've broadened my horizons into the 60's series. (I'm a bigger fan of the 60 series but the old lady likes the 80's)

Anyways I have found a truck that looks like it is in pretty good shape from the pictures. Haven't seen it in person yet as it is a pretty good drive away so I'm trying to obtain more info on it before I travel 6 hours to drive it. Here is the description from the owner:

Toyota LandCruiser, 1989 FJ62, V8 conversion
This Beast has been a daily driver for 5 years. Previous owner performed the Chevy 350 small block V8 conversion. 160k miles on truck, 37k on engine, rebuilt with new Cams and Pistons.
Recent work:
• 9/2017 - New Starter
• 9/2017 - New Battery
• 11/2016 - New Brakes F/R
• 4/2016 - New Alternator
• 2/2016 - Knuckle Seals and Bearings, Front Differential replacement
• 9/2016 - New Tires
• 8/2015 - New Shocks

I have contacted the owner and am trying to get more specifics on the engine and other work done like shocks and knuckle work. But I wanted to get a thread going on here to pick some of your brains on what I should be looking for or asking about the engine rebuild. I have read through a few threads on V8 conversions and am gonna keep reading others but any knowledge you can bestow upon me would be greatly appreciated!
 
Trying to get pics of engine. Body and Interior look pretty clean.

LC1.jpg


LC2.jpg


LC3.jpg
 
V8 in front of A440F isn't a great combo.
carbed V8?
 
I didn't see the trans listed, but I agree

Make sure everything works. All gauges, switches, backup lights, AC, Cruise if it has it. Check the exhaust and how it's run. Oil pan clearance, bump stops extended, how is it cooled. Fan, shroud, etc.

From the visual aspect, did they pay attention to details. Clean wiring, fuel line, hose routing

I'm assuming carbed v8
 
Hopefully will be getting more details on it today.

Price is $6,900


Thats a great price if it isn't a hack job and isn't rusty. I have a 60 with a v8 and the extra power is nice on the highway etc. Just make sure whoever did the conversion took care of the wiring expertly or you will be chasing gremlins til you are in the poor house. Also make sure the cooling set up is up to snuff. Pics of the engine bay would be key in assessing how amateur or professional the swap is.

Minus many details looks on paper like a good buy but the devil is in those details. If verifiably used as a daily driver post conversion that would be a positive in my book
 
As stated earlier lot's of "if's" involved as to what is a fair price. Obviously the only sure way of answering these questions is to go look for yourself or have someone do it for you. Check the clubhouse section for the truck's location and reach out to that club and see if someone can look at the truck for you. May cost some money up front but it can also save you from a poor purchase. Good Luck
 
As stated earlier lot's of "if's" involved as to what is a fair price. Obviously the only sure way of answering these questions is to go look for yourself or have someone do it for you. Check the clubhouse section for the truck's location and reach out to that club and see if someone can look at the truck for you. May cost some money up front but it can also save you from a poor purchase. Good Luck
That's a good point, I do know there is a club in the area so I'll reach out to them in the forum section and see if anyone is willing to take it for a drive and look it over for me.
 
Hopefully will be getting more details on it today.

Price is $6,900


If no rust that is a good deal even if it does have a a440, which would be the first thing to go then the carb would get replaced with a plug and play self learning efi or TBI
 
Owner says the swap was done by previous owner who was in mechanic school and this was the project car. Scary or good? I'm not sure how I feel about that, either the guy had a good teacher and it was done right or some things might have been overlooked.

IMG_1625.JPG
 
Offer 6K and don't look back. Drive it like you stole it, and swap an LS in it.

It looks well worth the number if everything is working electronically and mechanically
 
what's with the disconnected fuel filter on the front of the air cleaner? Weird....
 
For it to be smogged in CO the engine has to be the same year or newer than the vehicle, which would mean it would have to be a TBI engine, I can't tell from the pics if thats TBI or a carb.

Car has been repainted, from the different underhood paint color, who knows if it had rust and was repaired correctly if it did.
 
6k may be about right but I would go lower to plan on some repairs. Thats not the cleanest looking engine bay, one too many zip ties for my liking. There is some strangeness afoot. Still if it runs/drives and is rust free go for it. Go over that paint job with a magnet and make sure there is no bondo lurking underneath. What does the undercarriage/frame look like?

If you have the cash down the road to change out the engine please paint that engine bay (pet peeve) Speaking of paint are the door jambs red also?
 
You should drive it. Get it on the highway, take it through the paces. Check all the fluids. Check the compression. Make sure the transfer case engages correctly. Look for leaks. The positive terminal on the battery looks a little scary to me - where are all those wires headed? If the truck really is rust free, drives well, and runs good - then I wouldn't have any problems paying 7k. 6K would be better, but trucks hovering around the 5-6k mark are getting real hard to find, in decent condition - especially with all the hipsters snatching them up.
 
6k may be about right but I would go lower to plan on some repairs. Thats not the cleanest looking engine bay, one too many zip ties for my liking. There is some strangeness afoot. Still if it runs/drives and is rust free go for it. Go over that paint job with a magnet and make sure there is no bondo lurking underneath. What does the undercarriage/frame look like?

If you have the cash down the road to change out the engine please paint that engine bay (pet peeve) Speaking of paint are the door jambs red also?
Yeah the two tone hurts me too, I don't know about the door jambs but if they are the original color that might be a deal breaker. I'm still prying the owner for more pics but it is difficult to get responses.
 

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