We want to trailer Miss Scarlet to some places rather than driving. Cost of gas, wear and tear, etc. I wanted to use axel straps but the darn brake lines are in the way. Grrrrr. When we brought her home last year I did the no-no of using the shackles. Would appreciate your sage wisdom.
When I loaded my 40 up on my friends trailer before my transfer case work, we were able to pull the straps apart and go in between the brake hard lines and the axle to ratchet just the axle down. Worked well for me
Good information in that thread. I've never used tire straps. They look dumb stupid easy to use. Might consider those since there is no crawling around or reaching under the truck.
Unfortunately, decades ago I drove a car transport for a short period. Truly one of my least favorite trucking jobs.
I used the ones the factory holes provided for that purpose, on the frame rails. There are two oval holes at the rear and two round ones up front at the cross member. Transport drivers use these because there is no risk of crushing brake lines, less risk of scratching the paint and it controls the movement of the vehicle. On my own rig I use the two rear ones, and two D-rings I have on my HD front bumper, since my frame plates now block the OEM holes.
One of my favorite trucking jobs was hauling heavy equipment, and one of the first things you learn is to control the movement of the load in all directions. Some of the following comes from personal preference: I DO NOT like to allow the 'load' to bounce on the trailer by securing it only at the axles, and a freely moving/flexing suspension can cause the trailers center of gravity to shift outward on turns and a bouncing load puts undesirable dynamic forces on the trailer.
I don’t like the dynamics involved when using tie down points on the body and frame.
When strapping the axles/tires down, the truck is free to bounce around on its own suspension, but the tie points are rigid relative to the trailer. When tied down to the frame you lose the rigidity between tie point and trailer, which allows for slack in the straps as the cars suspension can now compress under its own weight
I don’t like the dynamics involved when using tie down points on the body and frame.
When strapping the axles/tires down, the truck is free to bounce around on its own suspension, but the tie points are rigid relative to the trailer. When tied down to the frame you lose the rigidity between tie point and trailer, which allows for slack in the straps as the cars suspension can now compress under its own weight
When you strap a vehicle down using the frame the straps take most of any movement out of the suspension if you tighten them down like you should. If the vehicle's suspension is moving that much straps are too loose. Trailer has a suspension of it owned and see no advantage of having second one working higher. Many vehicles come from the factory with tie down points easy to get on the just for transport.
That is exactly what I used when I moved my 40 across the states, in combination with straps pulling the frame down tight to eliminate any movement of the body.
If the axles are not on the bump stops there is still play in the suspension. Momentum of a 3000# truck can compress leaf springs more than your ratchet strap.
I am not denying you can remove some suspension movement by tightly strapping down the frame, but I would not do so without also securing the axles/wheels.
If the axles are not on the bump stops there is still play in the suspension. Momentum of a 3000# truck can compress leaf springs more than your ratchet strap.
I am not denying you can remove some suspension movement by tightly strapping down the frame, but it would be unwise to do so without also securing the axles/wheels.
How many times when your driving on pavement do you hit your bump stops? I never do. That is without a tandem axle trailer doing it's thing to prevent bumps to the load. I leave my vehicles in low range first gear with the hand set. It doesn't round around or the vehicle jump around sides ways. If you think it so unsafe please explain the tie down points on many vehicles that come from the factory for the purpose of being transported from the factory.
How many times when your driving on pavement do you hit your bump stops? I never do. That is without a tandem axle trailer doing it's thing to prevent bumps to the load. I leave my vehicles in low range first gear with the hand set. It doesn't round around or the vehicle jump around sides ways. If you think it so unsafe please explain the tie down points on many vehicles that come from the factory for the purpose of being transported from the factory.
The existence of tie down points in the frame rails does not negate a would be need to secure the axles. I have already agreed wth you that there are advantages of securing the vehicle by the frame.
I am not speculating or offering any anecdotal evidence. I only intend to point out that when straps are attached to the frame only, the physics of the system allows for movement of the suspension that can create unwanted slack in the straps.
Whether it is worth it to attach two more straps to your axles is for you and others to decide.
The existence of tie down points in the frame rails does not negate a would be need to secure the axles. I have already agreed wth you that there are advantages of securing the vehicle by the frame.
The existence of tie down points in the frame rails does not negate a would be need to secure the axles. I have already agreed wth you that there are advantages of securing the vehicle by the frame.
I am not speculating or offering any anecdotal evidence. I only intend to point out that when straps are attached to the frame only, the physics of the system allows for movement of the suspension that can create unwanted slack in the straps.
Whether it is worth it to attach two more straps to your axles is for you and others to decide.
The movement in the springs your so concerned about could easily be solved with blocks slightly larger then the gap left after the straps are tightened down. Install the blocks before the straps are itifhtened down and no more movement. Securing just the alxe that leaves all the weight abovw the axle to move with the suspension. To me that is a unsecured load. The FJ40 hard top is already a top heavy vehicle, lifted or spring over it's even worse. Securing just the axles to the trailer is like adding even more lift. The momentum of a shift load in a sharp turn is not a good thing. Trailering a load you want it secure to the trailer secure any heavy objects from moving around.
I use chains and binders when I trailer my 40. IMO I wouldn’t use straps on my rig, maybe on a car but the 40 has other options for tie down points. I chain the front end using front hooks and two short chains. I then chain rear axles using the leaf springs and hangers and use chain binders. The chains are crossed front and rear. It is very rigid and my rig doesn’t move. I know someone that had straps come loose after getting wet and I don’t trust most ratchet straps made in China, even on my dirt bike.
OP here... Between your suggestions, conversations, You Tube, and commercial websites, I think I've got a handle on how to strap Miss Scarlet down. Thanks-Jack
I use chains and binders when I trailer my 40. IMO I wouldn’t use straps on my rig, maybe on a car but the 40 has other options for tie down points. I chain the front end using front hooks and two short chains. I then chain rear axles using the leaf springs and hangers and use chain binders. The chains are crossed front and rear. It is very rigid and my rig doesn’t move. I know someone that had straps come loose after getting wet and I don’t trust most ratchet straps made in China, even on my dirt bike.
I like the idea of chain binders but unless your paying high dollar your probably getting something made in China. I have bought quality axle straps and long 2" ratchet straps. I have tow in the rain without issue. I also use my winch cable hooked to one of the hooks up front. Think the biggest thing I do is change my driving habits when towing.