Build What the Foo is this???

[2fpower]

@nukegoat @cjmoon

Been trying to find instructions on welding these things. They talk about putting a heat sink in the middle. I can turn some brass chunks. Thoughts?

 

[nukegoat]

I wouldn't go through that level of effort, but it wouldn't hurt. I just welded mine on with several beads over the course of several minutes. No biggie. I'm assuming the ball part is held in place with snap rings on one or both sides.

If you're paranoid, you can probably consider doing the following:

1) pre-heat it with a torch (like 200-250 degrees, not crazy hot)
2) Weld it slowly, and don't just go in one large circle around the whole thing - go from left to right then right to left then down to up then up to down, etc.

 

[cjmoon]

Yes disassemble. They are loose fit but guess they will press in after no big deal, I think they designed them that way.

 

[2fpower]

Not much progress on the portals, been real busy at work. Got a couple hours last night and was able to tack weld on the mounts for the rear axle. Currently, the lower mount is three-quarter inch back from center.

 

[2fpower]

I’m realizing, that I have no clue what I’m doing. I’m so glad that I have someone local here to point me in the right direction keep this project going. Thanks. @cjmoon Of course, I should also blame you for putting this in my head I could do something like this. With that said, got the rear suspension roughed in place last night. Only problem is I could not find any of my plumb bob’s, so used chalk lines for now. Here is the upper wishbone link. I used the OEM links on the frame side, then found that 1" OD would go inside those tubes, so bent up some scraps for testing phase. Since they are sleeved, we can move it in and out to get the right pinion angle during this phase.

For the LCA, my plan is to again use the stock mount on the frame side, then sleeve in DOM tube just like we make the heavy duty LCA's for stock rigs. For now it is cheap pipe again sleeved, so we can move it back and forth.

Here you can see I had to plasma off some of the upper bracket for everything to fit.

Will pick up some plumb bob's today or tomorrow and @cjmoon is coming over Saturday to help cycle and make any changes. With any luck I can start burning this in!

 

[2fpower]

@SuperBuickGuy you have hints on how to drill and perfectly center new wheel studs holes?

Got these pics of how to machine the hubs.

 

[2fpower]

Many thanks go out to @cjmoon for stopping by last night and help me flex out the rear suspension. Everything looked pretty good, a little trimming needed here and there, so with that said it’s time to start burning and making and finalizing parts. The bracket on top of the differential cleared by a quarter inch !!! I am pumped that everything worked.

 

[2fpower]

still waiting to hear about getting premade brackets for brake calipers.

found on another thread, using 47750-35080 calipers from 85-89 4runner. cardone part number 19P1241.

If I can't get a bracket, that is made for a specific size caliper, i will have to compare this caliper to the one earlier posted on this thread that was from a 60 series.

 

[2fpower]

Thinking about the ebrake again, saw a pic of a smaller caliper that would work on a vented disc.

 

[2fpower]

one more picture of the conversion of above. They recessed the back for the lugs. he said under 10mm thick metal after this milling.

 

[2fpower]

Started burning and things. First up was the lower control arms. Since I’m using the stock upper mounts, I started with stock small lower control arms and did basically the same process as the bullet proof slider we have made before. Since these arms are longer than stock, I had to sacrifice an extra set of LCA's to make these longer. First step was to weld the stock tube to the johnny joint. I decided to do it offset so rocks can slide by easier.

Here you can see the solid stainless 1" stock that I put inside of the stock LCA tube. You can see in this pic the grove you have to cut because the original LCA is not DOM, so there is a weld bead inside of it.

Here is the new outer DOM pipe that sleeves over the stock tube. I taper the outsides to fit to the very end.

Here is s good shot of the offset on the final DOM pipe to the johnny joint.

Done. I had to freeze the johnny joints inner parts to be able to get them in due the welding deformation. I was very careful to weld slowly; however, it still moved enough to make it difficult. Here is pic of the two new lowers and the length compared to a stock LCA.

 

[2fpower]

And started burning in all the metal to the rear axle. Sticked it in. I was worried about overheating and warping the axle.

 

[2fpower]

Well the portal at axles add about 5 inches of clearance, now it’s only 4 1/2. My bender was able to do half inch plate!!!

 

[2fpower]

Finished welding on the rear axle. Need to do some cleanup grinding. Next up is the upper arm. Need to pick up some more DOM.

 

[2fpower]

Reinforcing.

 

[2fpower]

Work on the upper arm. 1 1/2 DOM 1/4 inch wall, so ID is about an inch. This works perfect as the stock upper arms are 1 inch OD. So the upper stock arms sleeve inside of this DOM. I was able to bend the DOM and dial it in with the jig I made.

 

[Ronny Grady]

beefy

 

[2fpower]

Rear axle is in!!!!

 

[2fpower]

On the blender thread @Mieser told a new tech tip to center the captured not with a tapered head bolt.

 

[2fpower]

Those captured nuts are for the spring hold downs.