Builds What the Foo is this??? (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

Once again, all the credit goes to @cjmoon , without his guidance, I would never have tackled this challenge. Really is fun learning about all the stuff. Last night we got the front end all dialed in except for the upper arm that he referred to in above post

 

[2fpower]

Also, going back to the uni ball joints from ruffstuff, I found a 36 mm harbor freight socket buffed down a little bit fit snuggly inside. Will try to see if that helps it from deforming during welding.

 

[2fpower]

We discover something I had not thought of yet, and that is the portal axle pivots about 5 inches back further than the stock Toyota axle trunnions bearings are. That means that the center of the wheel moves a lot further forward and backwards as you turn. It appears that I need to do a bunch of cutting to the front fenders, especially up tight to the tub. I’m not a good illustrator, however this may help explain what I’m talking about.

 

[nukegoat]

Yep. Portals have a ton of scrub radius. H1 wheels have enormous backspacing to reduce the scrub. If you run normal backspaced wheels it can be very hard on steering components and trunnions

 

[2fpower]

base on where your mounts ended up your anti-Squat(anti Dive for this front application) is 99 moving the upper frame mount up another 1" like we discussed and you have room for with a little angle in that bracket brings it down to about 73% move it as high as you can, another 1/8 above that is 70%. it's looking really good.

should I go back any further, or just up?

 

[cjmoon]

Just up I Ran the numbers and it doesn’t affect much going back

 

[2fpower]

on the lower control arm mounts added another reinforcement plate and side of the bracket:

When I bent the half inch plate armor for underneath the diff:

And bent up some armor for the front side of the diff. You can’t go to high on these as you’ll get in the way the pan hard

Then I capped off the top of the LCA Mount. I had a chop about a quarter inch off the Clearance for the drag link:

 

[2fpower]

Decide to go a different direction to be able to get to the bolts needed to take apart the drive flanges. I mounted the shock and spring mounts inboard about half inch from where they need to be for the springs. I then cut off the spring mounts, so I could shift them over after raising them up about three eights inch

Here’s the three eights inch plate to raise them higher

And the clearance it gives you to access the bolts

And finally what it should look like all together

 

[nukegoat]

Beef! That will stay put. Nice.

 

[2fpower]

Now working on the bottom side, And getting the armor on

 

[2fpower]

Help needed. Anyone that has done hydro assist.

Looking for a tie rod clamp that is for 1.375" pipe.

I called these guys on friday, but they have 2 week lead time. looks awesome though.

Found synergy, but it looks small compared to this one.

Any other sources?

@jcardona1 @nukegoat

 

[2fpower]

Ordered this ram last week

1.5x5x1.12 DA Hydraulic Cylinder Monarch 677528-P | Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[2fpower]

Tube clamps... answered my own questions.


Just started thinking where I bought the last set for FOO, found it on this thread and it led me to the answer....


Synergy Outer Diameter (OD) Tube Clamp

 

[nukegoat]

Help needed. Anyone that has done hydro assist.

Looking for a tie rod clamp that is for 1.375" pipe.

I called these guys on friday, but they have 2 week lead time. looks awesome though.

Found synergy, but it looks small compared to this one.

Any other sources?

@jcardona1 @nukegoat

Whats the outer diameter?

 

[2fpower]

Whats the outer diameter?

OD of the tie rod is 1.347 or something like that.

 

[nukegoat]

OD of the tie rod is 1.347 or something like that.

Oh. Ok you said pipe so i got confused. 1.375ish bar/tube - you may need to get something custom. Depending where the tie rod is and how durable you want it to be it may just be easier to bite the bullet and ream out the knuckles to GM tre taper and run the cheap "1 ton" ends in a ubiquitous 1.5" 0.25 wall dom tie rod. Plenty of clampy options at that point.

If you dont want to ream the knuckles you can drill them out and drop in a tapered insert which works totally fine too.

My .02

 

[nukegoat]

Ordered this ram last week

1.5x5x1.12 DA Hydraulic Cylinder Monarch 677528-P | Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Not ideal unfortunately. The piston is so large youll get less than half the force when retracting. So steering will be very unbalanced...

 

[2fpower]

Not ideal unfortunately. The piston is so large youll get less than half the force when retracting. So steering will be very unbalanced...

Crud, I thought you were recomending the larger piston. Do you have an ideal sized one in mind?

 

[2fpower]

Oh. Ok you said pipe so i got confused. 1.375ish bar/tube - you may need to get something custom. Depending where the tie rod is and how durable you want it to be it may just be easier to bite the bullet and ream out the knuckles to GM tre taper and run the cheap "1 ton" ends in a ubiquitous 1.5" 0.25 wall dom tie rod. Plenty of clampy options at that point.

If you dont want to ream the knuckles you can drill them out and drop in a tapered insert which works totally fine too.

My .02

not going to mess with the ends or rod, as it has to have a crazy crook at the end, so that is not in the cards. just need to put a clamp onto that tube/rod/thing to get the ram attached.

 

[nukegoat]

Crud, I thought you were recomending the larger piston. Do you have an ideal sized one in mind?

Sorry. Might have confused you. A 1.75 bore with .75 rod would be ideal i think.