what is THIS for? well whatever it is it's leaking... (1 Viewer)

[screwbird]

And what size tap/hole did you choose?

I used a M8 x 1.25 and I chose that size because the hole size is nominal for use with that tap, and it's harder to control metal shavings if you have to drill out the hole. As GulfShores and others have mentioned, the hole size is muy important to avoid having a brittle, high carbon steel tap broken off in the hole. You don't have to have expensive gage pins, because you can use some Yankee Ingenuity to find a round object that fits snugly in the hole and then use a micrometer or calipers to measure the OD of the round object. You are lucky to have the actual plug that fits in there to use for reference, but I couldn't find mine when it blew.

For added insurance, buy the best "Made in USA" tap you can find - this is not the time to use a cheap tool that's made in China. Trust me there is a difference in the steel recipe and quality.

To capture the metal shavings, slather the entire tap in moly grease. It's much easier to control metal chips in a slow speed operation like tapping, as opposed to a high speed operation like drilling. Back out the tap often after each half turn or full turn.

I purchased a short hex head cap screw in the plastic specialty harware drawers at Home Depot to plug the hole, with a little loctite of course.

Until this thread appeared, I had totally forgotten about this happening to me. I was lucky in that mine blew as I was backing down my driveway and I saw a long trail of oil in front of the truck. If I had been driving forward, the previous posts are 100 percent correct in saying that you would not notice it until it's too late. I was only unhappy about the mess on my driveway, but very thankful that it happened there rather than out on a trail with minimal tools and means to fix it.

Hope this helps. Cheers.


-Screwbird

 

[Timoss]

One other option I have seen used instead of a tap is a "pin" method. With the stock plug (or another plug) in the hole (perhaps JB welded in the hole would be best), drill through the plug from the side with a very small bit. Gently hammer a bicycle spoke or similar pin into the hole to hold the plug in permanently. Anyway, it's an option for someone who doesn't feel comfortable tapping...

Timoss
88 fj62 TLCA

 

[lovetoski]

Mark W did a writeup a few years ago about how to fix this. I did the fix on my 60, exactly as he describes and it wasn't hard. It's lasted 3 years, and is still bone dry. Link to the whole article is below, and I've pasted the key paragraph in just to aid future searches.

Besides buying the tap/bit/allen screw, I had to get an angle attachment for my drill...but hey I needed one of those anyway!

Start to finish it took me one hour. I went super slow too, didn't really want to fawk up when drilling/tapping into my head!


http://www.rockcrawler.com/departments/landcruiser/qna/qna031598a.htm

The best fix (assuming you are at home, and not on the trail when you discover the problem) is to drill and tap the hole for a screw in plug. This can be done with the head on the engine.

First remove the valve cover, and the headbolt that the oil flows around. Insert a cloth, a cotton ball on a string, a soft rifle/shotgun bore swab, or some other material to prevent any metal flakes from falling into the bore. Then use a "F" sized drill bit (.257 of an inch) to drill out the short passageway between the head bolt bore and the exterior of the block. Once it is drilled, tap the hole with a 5/16-18 tap. An allen head screw can then be threaded into the hole until it is flush. Coat the threads with epoxy before installing the screw. Reinstall the head bolt and the valve cover, let the epoxy set up, and you're ready to go.​

 

[GulfShoresFJ60]

What lovetoski pasted is basically what I did. I had to drill my plug out, so I left the head bolt in and drilled the plug out. After a little drilling I felt the plug push forwards (here's where leaving the headbolt in helps-keeps the plug from falling into the hole.) I pulled the drill back out and cleaned the hole shavings out by using a magnet. I then removed the headbolt and used a magnet to take the rest of the plug out from the headbolt hole. I then ran the tap into the hole. Using the grease will help keep the loose shaving down to a minimum since they will stick to the grease. You might want to start a pilot hole in the plug first to keep the bit from walking too much. On the plug, I just asked NAPA for a plug and they brought me a selection. I picked the one I wanted - I used a allen head plug. I coated the plug with loctite when I installed it.

 

[ZRotheohv]

Screwbird, did you not have to drill at all using that M8 tap?

 

[ZRotheohv]

Well just as an update, I got the original plug out (except I don't think it was the original, didn't match my brother's 60 and was just sorta weird) by drilling a small hole, screwing in a screw half way, and pulling and hitting the screw and plug out. Also, the M6x1.5 tap works PERFECT without any drilling. Plus it's metric, which just makes me happier somehow. Now tomorrow I'll just have to get the allen plug and loctite. Thanks!

 

[GulfShoresFJ60]

No problem, glad you got it out and it worked well for you.

 

[Mark W]

Yep, I've fixed a couple with an M6 tap. The hole is actually a tiny bit large for this tap, but it is not as if there will ever be great strain on these threads, so it is okay.


Mark...

 

[AATLAS1X]

Use a shop vac to clean the hole out and not air.

PS Good fawking job!!!!!!!!

 

[screwbird]

ZRotheohv,

To answer your question, no I did not have to drill out the hole to use the M8 tap. It has been several years since I did mine, so I don't remember what the ID of my hole measured, but I do remember it was right in the nominal range for the M8 tap.

I guess I was really scared about drilling and all those metal bits. After reading some of the other threads, it occurs to me that I could have gone the extra mile and removed the valve cover, etc. I see that you and others have used the M6 for the repair, and as long as that worked, that's all that matters.

Anyway, it's great that you were observant enough to see the leak and fix it before it became catastrophic. Congratulations to you on getting her fixed.


-Screwbird

 

[ZRotheohv]

Yea it was surprisingly easy. With the right tools, probably took maybe an hour at most for everything. And now the mysterious leak I've had for months is gone! It's nice to park it and not leave stains everywhere. I've convinced my brother to do the same even though it's not leaking, and to anyone that still has the silly little plug in there I would also recommend the easy hour job. Got the allen plug for 70 cents at Ace, threw in some high temp loctite and all is good. Thanks a lot for all the help!

 

[rich121]

does 1996 FZJ80 have Oil Galley Plug?

Or only the earlier engines?

rick

 

[Marc311]

As far as I know, it is only on the earlier engines. You 80 guys get the headgasket issue I guess.

 

[PabloCruise]

Yea it was surprisingly easy. With the right tools, probably took maybe an hour at most for everything. And now the mysterious leak I've had for months is gone! It's nice to park it and not leave stains everywhere. I've convinced my brother to do the same even though it's not leaking, and to anyone that still has the silly little plug in there I would also recommend the easy hour job. Got the allen plug for 70 cents at Ace, threw in some high temp loctite and all is good. Thanks a lot for all the help!

What method did you use to remove your plug?

Thanks!

 

[ZRotheohv]

I drilled it out with a bit that was a little smaller than the hole and held a vacuum cleaner right there to catch shavings. It's a soft piece of metal so it goes through pretty quickly. Then once it was through the whole plug popped out on the drill bit.

 

[bigbrown]

to keep the metal out i took out the head bolt that was right there. i stuffed a greased covered cloth into the hole with a string on it. when i was all done i just pulled it out and put the head bolt back in.

another thing, you'll want an angle head drill for the job. apparently i rushed the tapping process and broke the tap in the hole. go slow! i left the tap in and filled with jb weld. it's holding great.

 

[treehugger]

1991 and 1992 have them to

 

[ad20k]

Blown galley plug = $3100

Background: One family FJ62 with 225k on the clock, my daily driver. Water pump had been making some noise for the past few months, so I figured it was going to give up the ghost soon. Rear main has always had a slow drip.

Saturday a week ago: Checked the oil, level was fine.
Tuesday: Noticed the oil spot in the driveway was a little wetter than usual. I dismiss as the rear main getting worse.
Thursday: Driving back on the freeway from the gym, a progressively louder knock started. I figure my water pump had finally decided to go.
Friday: No driving, carpool.
Saturday: Start diving into finding the source. Remove all belts thinking the knocking will stop, but it doesn't. I find out the engine is bone dry. It takes 6 quarts before I see anything on the dipstick. I start the engine and the knock gets quieter but does not go away. BAD SIGN! Lots of oil starts dripping from around the #5 plug.

Tomorrow: Drop off at engine rebuilder: $1800 for rebuild, $800 for removal and installation. $500 for rental car for 2 weeks.

Don't think it won't happen to you. Get it fixed!

 

[hank14]

Tomorrow: Drop off at engine rebuilder: $1800 for rebuild, $800 for removal and installation. $500 for rental car for 2 weeks.

Don't think it won't happen to you. Get it fixed!

That sucks, Aaron, but thanks for sharing. It helped me remember to put this fix back up to the top of the to-do list. For a while, I was peaking at the plug everytime before I closed the hood, but I can't remember to do that consistently.

 

[wengejor]

looks good, I had the machine shop guys put a similar plug in mine but I'm not sure they put loctite on it. I'll check it out.