what is THIS for? well whatever it is it's leaking... (1 Viewer)

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Just read that linked thread. Is JBWeld really strong enough to plug something like that?? Need to get some in my emergency kit if so.

I wouldn't trust it on anything that holds pressure or is load bearing. I experienced the galley plug launch a couple years ago and drove five miles dry of oil without realizing it. Freaked me the fxxx out when I realized what I had done (smelled burning oil when I shut down in my driveway and knew exactly what had happened, then cursed myself for not watching my gauges like I'm usually anal about). Got the right sized tap and plug, some red thread sealer and did the fix in my driveway. I had to remove the heater hoses to get to it, but if you do that it's not quite so difficult. I found it seals best if you have the threads good and clean of oil, and install the plug with the engine cold, then let the sealer cure overnight.

Haven't had a single issue since, and once I degreased my engine compartment (that was a mess from Hell), it was like it had never happened.
 
Your idea with the grease is much better than my oil idea......but oil is better than nothing I suppose
I do this mod with the head off, however if you coat the tap with grease, all the chips will stay in this grease. After tapping blow a little brake clean in, then install the plugs.
If you are that concerned remove the valve cover and the head bolt, stuff the hole like described above.
Personally I don't think using the method I describe you will get any debris in the motor....... This is how Chrysler tells techs to install fittings in aluminum intakes using grease.
Butch
 
Your idea with the grease is much better than my oil idea......but oil is better than nothing I suppose

Not my idea, I did some installs on a couple of Hemi's for the local dealership, had to drill and tap into the intake, for a sensor, and this were the instructions that came with the kit. figure if they trust this method on a 0 mile 40k truck ....well
 
The trick used by air cooler VWheads to drill and tap their engines for a full-flow oil filter & cooler is to put compressed air in at the oil pressure switch port, and use grease on the tap.

Ideally you'd tap cast iron dry as that will give you the longest tool life. I don't see that as practical on an assembled engine.
 
:eek:
I had no idea about this... I will check mine today.


Me either. Checkin mine today too.

AFAIK this is only on the 81 and newer 2F & 3F heads, I was looking on an older head and it appears as if Toyota did something different on them like it's welded or epoxied, I have never done anything to these heads or seen one leak

Anyone else know or have issues with them?
Butch
 
Does anyone recall what the factory plug is made of? The one in my head looks like it may have been messed with before?
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does anyone recall what the factory plug is made of? The one in my head looks like it may have been messed with before?
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looks oem to me, fix it.
 
You were right, it was factory. Got it out, halfway through the tapping job the tap broke off flush. brutal.
 
You were right, it was factory. Got it out, halfway through the tapping job the tap broke off flush. brutal.
:doh::doh:
What size tap? was it a tapered tap? Plenty of oil? Cheap tap?
I use a tapered tap, Snap On, plenty of oil, done at least 10 with the same tap with no issues....:doh::doh::doh:
Butch
 
ouch.

well, you could just use some jb weld and hope it gets in to attach to the tap flutes and stays there, or you removing the head and finding a machine shop with the electro arc tool to remove hardened fasteners etc from softer metals.

BTW, while uncommon, a 1/16th NPT pipe tap and allen pipe plug works perfectly and is small enough reaming with a tapered reamer is not needed. This is what I have been using in the past rebuilds...
 
I used a high quality that was handed down from generations before me and moderate oil. I think the problem may have lay in the fact that I used a 1/4" bit rather than a .257" simply because I couldn't find one. I though the bit may have been .007 out of spec and would compensate. The first half of the hole length wise is wider than the latter half, this is where the tap broke. The 1/4" bit did not even engage in the first half. I was able to successfully remove the tap without damaging the thread and install a slightly shorter plug than I expected.
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I just saw this, let me put my $.02 in, I use a 5/16" x 24 tap, no drilling required, then I install 2 allen head plugs one deep, and lock it in place with a second. Red loctite on both.
I have done at least 30 heads like this, SOP on all my head work or overhauls...........
Butch

What size drill bit do you use before using 5/16th tap?

Would an M6 bolt work?
 
I think saw a post earlier stating that a 6mm bolt could be used w/ epoxy and faith :hillbilly:! I must do this to my own (my motor is on the ground right now:D) I am going to bite the bullet and just drill and tap- w/ lots of oil and grease- for 5/16". The idea about cross pinning the factory plug seems easy and not so scary, but what if it goes, right. The idea of using a 6mm is tempting giving that MarkW said he had done it (although I'm sure he'd recommend a tighter fitting thread for a no worry fix). Apparently it does not require drilling the hole larger (still have to drill out the plug), but the threads are not tight when a tap is run thru it.
 
I think saw a post earlier stating that a 6mm bolt could be used w/ epoxy and faith :hillbilly:! I must do this to my own (my motor is on the ground right now:D) I am going to bite the bullet and just drill and tap- w/ lots of oil and grease- for 5/16". The idea about cross pinning the factory plug seems easy and not so scary, but what if it goes, right. The idea of using a 6mm is tempting giving that MarkW said he had done it (although I'm sure he'd recommend a tighter fitting thread for a no worry fix). Apparently it does not require drilling the hole larger (still have to drill out the plug), but the threads are not tight when a tap is run thru it.
 
Napa...?
 

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