Was wondering the same thing as FairZ on the offset... is the key to keep the W&T tucked inside the well for better off-road performance, or can one go from a +60 to say a +30 without issue ? Some posts talk about making a zero offset choice... when I think about zero or neg offset I get a visual of a "skateboard" ride.
What is the largest tire I can fit with no lift? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter 1loudLX
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Found the rattle. Whoever did the rear brake pads left the old brake pad between the passenger side rotor and dust cover. Everytime I hit a bump there was a metal clanging/rattling noise. Also fixed the vibration. The rear Universal joint at the rear differential was badly worn out. Drives like a new rig now. Makes me feel like I didn't make a mistake buying this rig.
I had the same thing happen! Found a brake pad between rotor and shield. What the heck?
Hello Everyone,
I am looking to install 32-33 outside radius tires on my LX470. However, I am looking into using R16 wheels for that, so a tire would be something like 285/75/R16. My question is - is there ANY downside to running smaller wheel size like R16 with a larger tire, vs R17-R18 wheels with the same outside diameter. I know a lot of people enjoy the looks of a larger wheel, but besides the looks, is there any performance/mileage/driveability/etc downside to R16 with 32'-33' tire on an LX470/Land Cruiser?
Thanks in advance!
I am looking to install 32-33 outside radius tires on my LX470. However, I am looking into using R16 wheels for that, so a tire would be something like 285/75/R16. My question is - is there ANY downside to running smaller wheel size like R16 with a larger tire, vs R17-R18 wheels with the same outside diameter. I know a lot of people enjoy the looks of a larger wheel, but besides the looks, is there any performance/mileage/driveability/etc downside to R16 with 32'-33' tire on an LX470/Land Cruiser?
Thanks in advance!
Wheel size I think mainly has two reason:
1. Availability of tire options --> 16" has the disadvantage
2. offroading with reduced tire pressure --> reason for me to keep my 16" and have "more rubber to bounce"
1. Availability of tire options --> 16" has the disadvantage
2. offroading with reduced tire pressure --> reason for me to keep my 16" and have "more rubber to bounce"
So in regards to ride quality, fuel economy, etc, R16 will not perform worse than R17-R18 with larger tires?
I think 16s should perform better offroading due to the higher wall, and 18s on the highway (due to the lower wall). People say 16s catch rocks easier between the wheel and cover on the inner side. As for gas, you already have a guzzler, don't worry too much if it drops one mile per gallon (which I doubt it would). I personally happy with stock 18s doing mostly highways and occasionally gravel roads and slick rocks.
I aim to be doing more highway than offroad driving, I happen to like the looks of smaller wheel more, also saving a bit on tires is nice. Do you think R16s are materially inferior to larger wheel sizes for on-pavement driving?
I’ve been driving around for 6 years on stock 16” wheels and E rated 285/75r16 tires. I’m perfectly happy with the performance. Handles just fine and acceleration is adequate. Fuel miles sucks, but that’s largely due to roof rack, winch and bumper. I think you’ll find a minute to no difference between 16” and 18” when we start talking tires of the same diameter and approximate weight. If highway performance is a concern then a P rated highway terrain or less aggressive AT in the 31”-32” range is your best bet.
I would argue you'd save much on 16s tires. AT tires (like BFG as the de facto standard for WE warriors) cost around $300 a piece nowadays. I take it, you'll need a new set of wheels to replace stock 18s (not sure if LX2006 had 18s in stock). So I don't see how to save here. LC/LX is not about saving anyway 
A great resource to compare tires is tiresize.com where you can compare 16s and 18s, see specs (most importantly the height, on stock suspension you can walk away with 33" with no rubbing/trimming), see how bad your odo would read if you go with no stock, etc.
A great resource to compare tires is tiresize.com where you can compare 16s and 18s, see specs (most importantly the height, on stock suspension you can walk away with 33" with no rubbing/trimming), see how bad your odo would read if you go with no stock, etc.
For offroad
not highway
Add the weight of both wheel and tire if comparing like diameter tires. Rotational weight impacts overall performance.
I just read all 22 pages in detail... okay, no I didn't. I skimmed two pages and decided it'd take all day to find what I'm looking IF it's in here.
My questions (which yeah, are probably in here somewhere) are about 285/7018s on stock wheels with 2 1/2" of lift without the pinch weld mod.
My questions (which yeah, are probably in here somewhere) are about 285/7018s on stock wheels with 2 1/2" of lift without the pinch weld mod.
- Will they rub anywhere other than the plastic liner and/or the washer fluid reservoir?
- If the pinch weld is needed... how is that done? Same method as the old hotrod method - wooden baseball bat and roll it? Or is it less "elegant" involving a BFH?
- The 275/70/18 spare is already a tight fit under the truck. Does the 285 fit if it's deflated?
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I have 295/70 on +25 and they definitely needed the pinch weld massage but you're talking about only a half inch over the 275s. Honestly it's a cop out, but very tire brand dependant. Like BFGs run small, but the Mikey's run bigger.
Long shot here but did you ever try those 34x10.5? Or anyone else for that matter? Thank you!
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
No I didn't, I went with 285/75/17 KO3's.
