1911
chupacabra
That is a gorgeous steering wheel, but mine is wrapped and it is much more comfortable.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (53 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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That is a gorgeous steering wheel, but mine is wrapped and it is much more comfortable.
It was a few weeks ago, I drove it 760 miles with a trailer attached. Camped at the Expo and Hecla Junction. Averaged 16 mpg towing.
Will you share a pic?
That is a nice wheel - slick with wet/oily hands. Some sort wrap to help tame road vibrations and driving gloves. My buddies dad was a B-17 pilot in the Italy campaign - he always wore gloves when he drove anything "you never know when you will have to deal with glass or fire"
That is a good looking wheel, I like mine wrapped. I've wrapped mine 3 times because my left hand keeps wearing a hole in it.
1911
chupacabra
So true. Some riggers I know found counterfiet shackles at the nuke plant in their rigging kits. They purged them all.
Fix my choke cable that fell out of its clamp and was causing hard starting. That was driving me crazy last week. Kept having to use starter fluid on it. Install new plugs, wires and rotor. I didn't know the '79 dissy cap is such an indangered species. After getting two of the wrong ones shipped to me, I cleaned and dremeled the contacts on mine. It's the small one with three screws. Then I took her where she belongs, offroading for a test ride. It's running so much better. Still have a slight miss that I can't figure out.
The replacement OEM fasteners that I've come across didn't even use a class-number on the head, iirc. They are just concave.
Changed the mounting of the power steering pump a little then re-arranged the fan belts to try to improve the alignment of the pulleys and belts. It looks better. Snugged up the manifold nuts a hair. Plumbed the ported vacuum gauge (it's not very informative, don't know if I'm going to keep it)
True enough in the right regime, which is why some engine/ head bolts look like that.
I don't think the rivet works by interface pressure alone though, but rather through a combination of shear also.
12-a shows how the two pieces of metal are tightly engaged upon the shank, while 12C is fully reliant on preloade and friction between the two parts.
As these bolts are rated at over 5 metric tonnes each, I think you should be pretty safe.
@Aloha Jen posted a photo of her steering wheel 3 weeks ago and it was perfect. A super clean job. I ordered a leather wrap based on her success with what she had done. Just putting it on in the next few weeks. My complaint is that the wheel seems to thin
That wrap looks fantastic! I was thinking about wrapping my wheel.
Regular clearance holes have quite a bit of slop, otherwise it becomes difficult to assemble and disassemble the part. But, for what you are describing, it is addressed differently. The transmission is located on the bellhousing via pins, the pins resist shear, the bolts are only in tension. The front hub flanges/locking hub mechanisms are located by pins, no shear. However, it is often not addressed at all. Driveshafts have a cylindrical-step that mates them to the transfercase and pinion - those bolts are not vulnerable to shear forces, they resist it by clamping the parts together. Also, wheels are attached to hubs with cone-faced nuts on studs with quite a bit of thread between the two parts, they recieve quite a bit of cyclical loading, as the hub only locates the wheel on the hub's center, again hub studs seem not particularly vulnerable to shear forces by drivetrain torque.
The rear motor mounts are interesting, they receive dynamic loading, exposure to corrosion, and the original ones have a lower class number on the head. I think that is was 4, iirc. I should dig them out, they were really worn from corrosion and rubbing from compression-failed rubber-ish insulators, yet they were still functioning, long after needing to be taken out of service.
For a frame, using a hard fastener to clamp a soft material, it creates plastic-flow, or embedment in the frame surface being clamped, which results in loosening, or lower pre-load (which was another factor that contributes to fatigue). The author cautions against using high-strenght fasteners when not required. The endurance limit of a fastener, 'class' or 'grade,' is easy to exceed in the case of a frame, because the frame is made from forged steel without heat-treatment, such as the rivets that hold it together. The higher endurance limit results in lower ductility, a property that is actually sought after, like when something is case-hardened, for example.
Derusted, scrubbed, and polished body parts to the 45
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More and more and more body work. Finally finished the alignment and welding for all the roll bar captive nuts. What a chore that was. The bolt hardware is temporary. I’ll be replating the originals when I put it all back together.
you wont regret wrapping it if you take your time and get it on nice and even... The wheel skin leather feels as soft as a golf glove
So what is your final (non rivet) preference?
To press-fit a special soft-shanked bolt with an narrow neck extension into the frame with a spacer, and tighen a nut onto it?
I'm inclined to think that installing a rivet without the correct tools or clearly defined process is likely to be a worse option for most people, compared to installing a known (albeit wrong) bolt?
I worked in 'smithy' (a blacksmith shop) before becoming a machinist. I'm inclined to get OEM rivets, as they are still available, and follow the FSM, (pdf) pg. 223
However, in my opinion, some of the frame might be repaired with bolts. The front bumper is attached with bolts, and it is subject to frame twist, and the shackle hanger is right under it? The service-life of bolts should be seriously questioned. The severity of service should be questioned.
Using a bolt to fit in the same diameter of hole proper for a rivet seems like a compromise; enlarging the rivet hole, and modifying the frame, could be a better strategy. Grade 5 (SAE) with Grade B-nuts, or Class 8.8 hardware is commonly available. The use of a fine-thread is preferred over a course-thread. Fine threaded hardware has a greater minor-diameter (thread-root on the screw), so you achieve a greater cross-sectional area of fastener. Flat-washers, on both sides, the head, and nut are a must. A split-type lock-washer is desirable, in my opinion.
Took the head off. No major dramas. Going to run the City Race F engine HG (assuming no crack issues with the head.) Doing some much needed cleaning and painting while it’s apart.
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