What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (21 Viewers)

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FJ Cruiser Wheels - Repaint....
I was too lazy to paint...
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But be aware, with 255x75r17's mounted, the offset will put the tires too close to the tub in the rear, I have 1" spacers on the rear. The front fit without any issues, but I think whatever the PO did to convert the front to disk brakes might have added a little width.
 
Picked me up a ‘79 GJ40 in Dallas, Texas.


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I got the old steering system removed to make way for the power steering not trying to decide if I want to put in a GM column or leave the factory harpoon of death. Kinda leaning towards the collapsible. Also got the Centeroid fuel sender in the @Downey tank.
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I got the old steering system removed to make way for the power steering not trying to decide if I want to put in a GM column or leave the factory harpoon of death. Kinda leaning towards the collapsible. Also got the Centeroid fuel sender in the @Downey tank.
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Why not just cut off the stock harpoon and add a collapsible section. That's what I did. Gets rid of the safety issue and you get to keep the humongous Toyota school bus steering wheel :)
 
Why not just cut off the stock harpoon and add a collapsible section. That's what I did. Gets rid of the safety issue and you get to keep the humongous Toyota school bus steering wheel :)

Can you explain that more? Maybe some pictures? I'd love to retain the Toyota wheel if possible.

I part of my PS kit has a collapsible section that goes from 31”-37.5“. I see how that makes me sound really stupid, but I thought that adjustment was just for fitment, not safety. FYI - I have the AA saginaw kit.
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Had to get it towed after picking it up from shop after new head gasket replacement.... Leaking gas out of manifold flange not sure why...

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Can you explain that more? Maybe some pictures? I'd love to retain the Toyota wheel if possible.

I part of my PS kit has a collapsible section that goes from 31”-37.5“. I see how that makes me sound really stupid, but I thought that adjustment was just for fitment, not safety. FYI - I have the AA saginaw kit.
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What kind of power steering setup are you going with? Saginaw? I have a very similar steering shaft to the one shown above - if not the same one - it’s a Borgeson cut-to-length unit. Any amount of collapse is better than nothing. I can’t remember exactly how far my collapses but it is probably similar.

In my eyes if you crash an FJ40 hard enough to collapse the frame inside the front cross member more than 6 inches getting impaled by the steering shaft is probably the least of your worries.
 
@Oregon FJ40 here are some pictures of mine.

I think your main question is answered by this one - stock steering shaft cut off, ground down to a “double-D” shape, shoved into a matching universal joint, held in place with set screws and a tack weld.

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Here’s the collapsing section. The key is to cut the shaft at a length that you get a good amount of collapse. ie - you don’t want it fully depressed (and this still a harpoon) but you don’t want it so close to the end that it will slide out if you flex the frame too hard.
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It goes through the frame to the box. There’s another universal joint that rotates basically inside the frame - and is spline to mount directly to the box. No spud shaft.
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What kind of power steering setup are you going with? Saginaw? I have a very similar steering shaft to the one shown above - if not the same one - it’s a Borgeson cut-to-length unit. Any amount of collapse is better than nothing. I can’t remember exactly how far my collapses but it is probably similar.

In my eyes if you crash an FJ40 hard enough to collapse the frame inside the front cross member more than 6 inches getting impaled by the steering shaft is probably the least of your worries.

It is a Saginaw kit with the Borgeson parts from advance adapters
 
It is a Saginaw kit with the Borgeson parts from advance adapters

Then you should be good - just cut the stock steering rod with enough sticking out to adapt it to the universal joint. ALSO take into consideration the angle down to the Saginaw box and anything it needs to clear along the way. Not sure what kind of engine you’re running and whatnot but make sure you clear any exhaust manifolds, steering boxes, etc.

A lot of the clearance is determine by where you cut the stock shaft.
 
Then you should be good - just cut the stock steering rod with enough sticking out to adapt it to the universal joint. ALSO take into consideration the angle down to the Saginaw box and anything it needs to clear along the way. Not sure what kind of engine you’re running and whatnot but make sure you clear any exhaust manifolds, steering boxes, etc.

A lot of the clearance is determine by where you cut the stock shaft.

Thanks for the input and advice. I'll do my best to squeeze it in. I'm having a Cummins put into it so I'll leave as much room as I can and make sure I don't have any excessive angles at the u-joints.
 
I understood that the collapsible steering shaft is more for allowing the steering to not be pushed or pulled by the flex of the firewall in regard to the frame. And, a rag joint also provides some flex, to a degree.
 
Thanks for the input and advice. I'll do my best to squeeze it in. I'm having a Cummins put into it so I'll leave as much room as I can and make sure I don't have any excessive angles at the u-joints.

You’ll have to tell me how you like the Cummins. Had a strong urge to try that when I dropped my V8 in but it’s hard to say no to a brand new $1500 engine.
 
I understood that the collapsible steering shaft is more for allowing the steering to not be pushed or pulled by the flex of the firewall in regard to the frame. And, a rag joint also provides some flex, to a degree.

This is very true - a lot of old Saginaw conversions used a straight rod and a spud shaft through the frame. With no motion in the shaft, it would act as a lever and trash the rear seal on the steering box pretty quickly (not to mention wear on the joints from being pulled).

But having a collapsible/telescoping shaft is a safety advantage too. With a joint at either end and the ability to collapse, there’s a lot of ways to bleed impact force away before the rod becomes a face-bound projectile.
 

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