What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (48 Viewers)

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White Stripe said:
Ya, the ones I purchased I could not find many reviews on. But I looked up the specs on the LED's that are used in these units and I think they will be bright. They are supposed to use 20watts per bulb as opposed to the 100watt per bulb halogen's I currently have. Their are some on ebay that are older versions, and I found a couple reviews of them and they were all good reviews. Here are the ones that have been around a bit longer and you can find some reviews on mud about them:
CREE MTG 72W 6400LM 6500K White Hi Lo Kit H4 Car LED Headlight Daytime Bulb Lamp
I think the people on mud that use them however get them through a mud vendor called lifetime led or something like that. But they are cheaper on ebay, just with less of a warranty. You can also get HID bulb retrofit kits for the h4 housings which are very bright as well and they draw between 30 to 50watts per bulb depending on version you buy. DDM tuning has inexpensive kits if you want to go the HID route and their bulbs have lifetime warranty.
Keep in mind that I have been looking into the budget route for me personally as I have a lot of other stuff to spend money on my 40 at the moment. Some people may decide to go high end with lighting options, in which case I haven't done any research on that route.
Click to expand...

I really like the idea of reducing my current draw because my BJ40 originally came off the production line with sealed-beams of just 50W/40W rating and I believe my headlight wiring and switches were never designed to handle much more current than that (so I suspect my present 60/55 H4 bulbs, although not considered bright by many here, still somewhat tax the current-carrying-capacity of my wiring and switches).

And I love the simplicity of my old BJ40 so I'm averse to installing extra relays (and to installing HID headlights that have to receive extra voltage just to fire-up).

I'm guessing I could still run my "rubber dust boots" when using your new LED bulbs? (I wouldn't be keen on going without them so that's a big plus.)

And I'm also guessing the braided metal hanging off the back of each bulb is its heat-sink? (I think I'm tight on space behind at least one of my headlights so this flexible dangling design looks better than the solid heat-sinks I see behind other LED bulbs.)

Shame the designers couldn't incorporate the 3-pin terminals solidly into the back of the bulbs somehow though.. (That would make the installation look a lot neater in my opinion ... but I acknowledge it would also be tricky to achieve without encroaching too much into the space behind.)

Anyway .. Thanks for getting me thinking on this... I'm tempted to follow your lead ... but I'll hold off ... at least for now.

:beer:
 
I've tried those low-priced heatsink type leds - light output is pretty weak at best . The Lifetime units I ran were 30w each and ran their own power supply drivers that are plug and play into the stock harness - you just end up with a box and some extra wiring at each headlamp . As a side benefit , both diodes are lit when on high beam - this way the low beam is still there and helps flood extra light down low in addition to the slightly higher high beam .

In my H4 IPF housings , light output was pretty good and decently controlled , but not as good as a halogen bulb in the same housing .
Distance range was ok - this is the main difference between the led and a good solid halogen bulb's light output and focus .

Any front-firing led is going to have shortcomings , just due to the nature of the housing's reflector . The only led units that will function like they should are rear-firing units with a reflector designed specifically for the led , such as what Racer is offering . Ideally , an led that would have enough lumen output to be equal or better than halogen has to be at least a 40w diode , 50w would be about right . It would also require a decent size driver board/box as well , not sure how Racer's units are built - evidently the driver is integrated into the housing .

Sooner or later the technology will catch up - halogen and hid will be a thing of the past .

Sarge
 
Weber Sarge said:
I've tried those low-priced heatsink type leds - light output is pretty weak at best . The Lifetime units I ran were 30w each and ran their own power supply drivers that are plug and play into the stock harness - you just end up with a box and some extra wiring at each headlamp . As a side benefit , both diodes are lit when on high beam - this way the low beam is still there and helps flood extra light down low in addition to the slightly higher high beam .

In my H4 IPF housings , light output was pretty good and decently controlled , but not as good as a halogen bulb in the same housing .
Distance range was ok - this is the main difference between the led and a good solid halogen bulb's light output and focus .

Any front-firing led is going to have shortcomings , just due to the nature of the housing's reflector . The only led units that will function like they should are rear-firing units with a reflector designed specifically for the led , such as what Racer is offering . Ideally , an led that would have enough lumen output to be equal or better than halogen has to be at least a 40w diode , 50w would be about right . It would also require a decent size driver board/box as well , not sure how Racer's units are built - evidently the driver is integrated into the housing .

Sooner or later the technology will catch up - halogen and hid will be a thing of the past .

Sarge
Click to expand...
The LED units I ordered have a different diode and rather new design and from the cree website are rated as twice as many lumens as the lifetime ones with less power consumption and heat for the amount of light they put out. I watched a little video from cree on these specific diodes. They have only been out for about a year. If they don't work, I will be sending them back and getting some HID kits instead I guess. I love the look of the halogen bulbs as it gives my rig a classy vintage look. But I really want more light output without upgrading my wiring. Its already handling the 100 watt bulbs fine, but I don't want to push it anymore.
 
Finally got my used rear output shaft yesterday after 12 days, today I sent it back. The face where the back side of high gear rides had metal gaulded to it. So I told them go ahead and send me a new one, no can do they say, have to wait till it gets here. Now why can't they just charge me for the new part and when the old one arrives credit me for it? Now I'll be waiting another 2 weeks or longer. Think I'll call them back tomorrow and tell them just screw it charge me the damn 25 percent restocking fee and order my chit from somebody else. Another lesson learned!
 
gator25 said:
Finally got my used rear output shaft yesterday after 12 days, today I sent it back. The face where the back side of high gear rides had metal gaulded to it. So I told them go ahead and send me a new one, no can do they say, have to wait till it gets here. Now why can't they just charge me for the new part and when the old one arrives credit me for it? Now I'll be waiting another 2 weeks or longer. Think I'll call them back tomorrow and tell them just screw it charge me the damn 25 percent restocking fee and order my chit from somebody else. Another lesson learned!
Click to expand...

Lemme guess... Cruiserpartsdotnet? Really a hassle at times. Patience is worn thin.
 
micruz60 said:
Lemme guess... Cruiserpartsdotnet? Really a hassle at times. Patience is worn thin.
Click to expand...

You too? WTH! Man my ass is on fire! LC is in the shop in one bay, got another 40 sitting outside, got my chevelle in another bay got a CJ-5 waiting to get a rear main to be done, got 2 Harleys in the other end. I'm WIGGIN! having to wait on these yoyos to get their s*** together.
 
Well, lerning's and burnit... There is a thread about them in the classifieds, regarding bad sellers. Hit or miss, talk to the right guy. I have not gotten anything from them in at least five years...
 
Well this will be the last time, like the saying goes burn me once shame on you, burn me twice shame on me. I learn fast.
 
Nothing exciting to report and sorry for the crappy picture.

Just too nice out to stay in the office. It was a perfect day to give it a bath and sort out the turn signals.

8B1gOTwl.jpg


Have a great day!
 
Really crappy picture... but I got rid of my three jerry can holders I made last year, and went with an easy basket. I am trying to decide if I want to put dividers in it, like I originally planned... or just leave it open so I can throw a trash bag in there for short trips. I made it a bit wide too for that purpose.
12742791_10206481414139039_5102345564882959196_n.jpg
 
Got my new drivers floor cut to fit and tacked in, finally. And also got my new Saginaw box (large cylinder off a j**p J20), now just need to get the rest of the stuff for the power steering swap.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
Finally picked it up eh?

Sad and glad?
 
Started painting stuff to see what color I want. I decided I like how Ultra Flat Sand Tan looks. So I'll probably paint it that color. Painted the seat frames Medium gloss grey, so I can reupholster them now. Trying to decided on color for the seats. Body will be Sand Tan, everything on the interior that's grey will stay that way, and the rims and bumpers will probably be ultra flat black. I haven't decided yet on what color bed liner I will use on the tub interior. I ordered color chips from monstaliner, but It's hard to imagine how it will look based off a little chip.


Also started cutting the rust out. I had a creative idea for a backup light. I'll make a mount into the patch panel for the rear quarter, and use a white LED trailer light. The hole is already there, so why not. :D
 
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