What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (50 Viewers)

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1" 6061 front recovery mounts in the works. Same dims as my old steel mounts.

Jason
TT

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Unfortunately I didn't make pictures of my work, but last weeks I was occupied with the notorious leaking engine valley, that turned into a P0328 Code.
I fixed the engine valley leak. Took me 8 hours in total (with eating, drinking and swearing). The most difficult part was removing the 3 bolts that are attached to the inlet manifold facing the firewall.

After reinstalling everything, I had a P0328 code. I tested the ECM, found out that sensor 1 had an open circuit. I broke one of the knock sensor connectors when resealing the valley.

Installed a new knock sensor wire harness, but still had the P0328 code. I lost it. But it seemed that my OBD scanner had difficulties removing the code. After driving a while and resetting, the P0328 disappeared and stayed away.

(I was sure I had fixed the problem, because I could measure all 4 sensors through the ECM with the correct resistance with a multimeter)
 
Unfortunately I didn't make pictures of my work, but last weeks I was occupied with the notorious leaking engine valley, that turned into a P0328 Code.
I fixed the engine valley leak. Took me 8 hours in total (with eating, drinking and swearing). The most difficult part was removing the 3 bolts that are attached to the inlet manifold facing the firewall.

After reinstalling everything, I had a P0328 code. I tested the ECM, found out that sensor 1 had an open circuit. I broke one of the knock sensor connectors when resealing the valley.

Installed a new knock sensor wire harness, but still had the P0328 code. I lost it. But it seemed that my OBD scanner had difficulties removing the code. After driving a while and resetting, the P0328 disappeared and stayed away.

(I was sure I had fixed the problem, because I could measure all 4 sensors through the ECM with the correct resistance with a multimeter)
Too late to help you, but for anyone else coming along, the bolts don’t need to come out.

 
The middle photo has some braided wire or cover. Where did you find that?
That part using the braid you mention was done by No Limit Baltimore. All I can say is that it's REALLY tough stuff. I was wondering myself what they used.
Thanks! This looks really great and I'll probably get some to use in a future project but I can't vouch that's what was used by No Limit.
 
Please shoot me an email with your order number, patrick@perryparts.com. I likely mis-shipped your order, and would love a chance to make it right, and get you set up properly. Hope to hear from you soon!
I just sent you an email. As I wrote on the email, I was able to move the bump stops to the rear position of the LCAs. The LX can't complete going into low mode.

BTW, the bump stops that I received are 51mm (around 2" tall) in @tbisaacs build thread, he shows a picture where he has them installed on the front with about 1 to 2mm of space to the LCAs, but he has a sensor lift.
 
I just sent you an email. As I wrote on the email, I was able to move the bump stops to the rear position of the LCAs. The LX can't complete going into low mode.

BTW, the bump stops that I received are 51mm (around 2" tall) in @tbisaacs build thread, he shows a picture where he has them installed on the front with about 1 to 2mm of space to the LCAs, but he has a sensor lift.

See this post in another thread. Seems to confirm your experience.



The Duros for the rear are too tall even when lifted an inch. They engage too quickly and don’t allow the shock to do it’s work.

I ordered some PerryParts bumps and the fronts are taller than duros so and they engage in fast low.

However the rears are shorter than duros and work so much better.
 
OME Lift finally installed with OME UCA's
kinda a PITA to do... I ended up dropping the LCA out of the way completely on the passenger side, the drivers side came out without having to do that fairly easily.

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Awesome. Is this one off or are you/someone making these?

Buddy of mine helped build it, 1 off right now as we work out how it performs at Moab. Frame mounts were all table cut though so could be replicated. We’re using the E3 latch, and a stinger design because I was worried about a regular tire plate carrier flexing too much with the 37. The swing arm is 3/16 square tube, and just some 1.75 HREW for the stinger, figured DOM would be overkill given the rest of the metal. Used a slightly smaller spindle so that it fits underneath the bumper skin

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Buddy of mine helped build it, 1 off right now as we work out how it performs at Moab. Frame mounts were all table cut though so could be replicated. We’re using the E3 latch, and a stinger design because I was worried about a regular tire plate carrier flexing too much with the 37. The swing arm is 3/16 square tube, and just some 1.75 HREW for the stinger, figured DOM would be overkill given the rest of the metal. Used a slightly smaller spindle so that it fits underneath the bumper skin

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Wondering what is driving the need to stick out so far?
 
Installed my Budbuilt sliders that showed up this week. Kickout and topless. Was not the funnest self install project. None of my daughters were interested in helping old dad out working on the car so I told the wife I may have to build a robot son that will help me. Took me about 8 hours doing it solo. That included some rework though as I didn't pay close enough attention to the video instructions and ended up with a few clearance issues with some backing plates when putting the heat shields on the back of the frame rail on. Call me old fashioned but man I'd have much preferred some paper instructions to go with them instead on only having a video available.
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