What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)

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Nolathane 30mm RSB on my LX. Red gives more horsepowers, right?

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How much of a difference does it make.

I did a rear sway bar on my F150 but it didnt have one at all from the factory. The difference was insane.

Not appreciably. At least not with the OEM AHC setup. @sedole is on aftermarket suspension which would maybe a different answer.

I've grenaded my rear sway endlinks effectively disabling the rear OEM sway bar. AHC still cornered surprisingly flat and had lots of control even towing 8k in the mountains. Where I felt it made more of a difference was not so much on road, but off-road where having no rear sway allowed the rear axle to be extra flexy to the point that the front end was lazy and not doing it's part to flex (to keep the overall rig more level) on articulated obstacles.
 
How much of a difference does it make.

I did a rear sway bar on my F150 but it didnt have one at all from the factory. The difference was insane.
Like @TeCKis300 said I'm no longer on AHC so a result with AHC might be very different. But for me it made a huge difference. I use driving up I-70 here in Colorado as my example as I'm always making the trek. With the Bilstein suspension I'd compare the body roll amount/wallowy feel to having a loaded down rig in comfort mode (i.e. more body roll than just a single person driving in comfort mode). Totally driveable, but most would wish it would corner a little flatter and be bumping up into normal or sport--or just slowing way down. Driving by myself on the new setup feels like how it used to in normal mode. I'm back to driving up the hill much faster than I should haha. I-70 is not very windy as far as windy roads go but I'm back to taking the "windy" sections at 70mph comfortably whereas before the RSB I'd not feel comfortable even doing 65. I'd stick more around 55-60.
 
Did the Loncky steering wheel thing today for my flaky '17 wheel.

Meh...some parts are good, but some of the corners around the columns are pretty shaky. Took me like 4-5 hours and I'm not 100% happy. May end up pulling down and reworking it. Yuck.

I also pulled the TV monitors and ordered Victory 4x4 covers.

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Did the Loncky steering wheel thing today for my flaky '17 wheel.

Meh...some parts are good, but some of the corners around the columns are pretty shaky. Took me like 4-5 hours and I'm not 100% happy. May end up pulling down and reworking it. Yuck.

I also pulled the TV monitors and ordered Victory 4x4 covers.

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I thought about that too but ended just up paying for a brand new wheel plus install. All in it was like $900 which is more than doing the wrap but at least I retained the OEM feel and the wood which I like a ton.
 
Did the Loncky steering wheel thing today for my flaky '17 wheel.

Meh...some parts are good, but some of the corners around the columns are pretty shaky. Took me like 4-5 hours and I'm not 100% happy. May end up pulling down and reworking it. Yuck.

I also pulled the TV monitors and ordered Victory 4x4 covers.



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I think you did a fine job on the steering wheel cover - looks good 👍
 
I thought about that too but ended just up paying for a brand new wheel plus install. All in it was like $900 which is more than doing the wrap but at least I retained the OEM feel and the wood which I like a ton.
Towards the end I was wishing I'd done that lol

This thing was $60 and I enjoy stitching so it seemed like a win-win, but dang getting those edges tucked with that little plastic spudger wore me out 🤬
 
Nice, that looks very handy. Carpet over plywood? What are the legs made of? And looks like it splits in half for storage?
Thanks.

3/4 inch plywood held up by 3/4 inch steel pipe. It is split so that the second row can be used. The front part can rest on top of the back part when using the second row. The two parts bolt together easily when needed and bolt together when stacked for using the second row. It is all attached to the tie down points for stability.

It can come in or out of the car in a minute or two.
 
Just installed @PerryParts bump stops on my LX. Unfortunately one of the front rearward OEM bump stops was welded shut and broke when I tried to remove it. Since installing two Perryparts bump stops on each LCA is an option, I decided to install them on the front while I find a way to remove the rest of the rearward OEM bump stop. The Perryparts bump stops are too tall to be installed on the front of the LCA. They contact the LCA and are actually a bit compressed. So, if your AHC is unmodified (no sensor lift), only one Perryparts bump stop can be installed per LCA and must be installed in the rearward position.
 
Shipped her out west for Cruise Moab
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Hi there!
These were pretty rare. They were sold in Poland in small quotas (like a 100 a year) as Euro 6 compliant with the V8 4.6 engine. 4.5 diesels were also available, but I never have looked for these. They are really sought after, their pricing is crazy... For a nice one in perfect shape with low mileage (even the pre-facelift one) you have to lay app. 100,000 USD....
The other issue is, that it is impossible to insure them gigher then 50-60k. So extra locks etc. are in order ;-)
 
Just installed @PerryParts bump stops on my LX. Unfortunately one of the front rearward OEM bump stops was welded shut and broke when I tried to remove it. Since installing two Perryparts bump stops on each LCA is an option, I decided to install them on the front while I find a way to remove the rest of the rearward OEM bump stop. The Perryparts bump stops are too tall to be installed on the front of the LCA. They contact the LCA and are actually a bit compressed. So, if your AHC is unmodified (no sensor lift), only one Perryparts bump stop can be installed per LCA and must be installed in the rearward position.
Hey there, thanks for the feedback. When you purchased your bump stops, did you select Yes for AHC at checkout?

I have an AHC specifically to allow vehicles with AHC to be able to use the whole range.
 
A while back I put an Anderson SB-50 connector connected to the starter battery at the driver's side kick plate so as to charge my Yeti Goal Zero 1500X while on the road. It was a hurry-up installation and held in place with velcro which wore out almost immediately. Well I finally got around to cleaning up the installation with a Powerwerx SB-50 surface mount housing (Powerwerx PanelPodSB for Anderson SB50 Series Connectors - https://powerwerx.com/panelpodsb-anderson-sb50-mounting-pod ) and added a plain old NoCo cigarette lighter tap while I was at it. I have the same thing on the passenger's side connected to the 2nd battery. It's connected to a 60A Blue Sea breaker (the one on the right in the 2nd picture below) in the engine compartment.
Last photo is test charging the Yeti using the updated setup with 450+ watts! :bounce:

Electrical-wise, I'm almost done with this truck.

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60A breaker on right feeds the SB-50 at driver's left footwell.
500A relay and 120A breaker to left feeds the rear bumper's SB-175 for trailer charging.

EDIT for clarification:
Wiring and braid to 500A relay, 120A breaker and 60A breaker done by No Limit Baltimore.
Wiring & conduit from 60A breaker through firewall to driver's side footwell done by me.

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IS IT?
the way shown allows you to fill the spare up with air WITHOUT dropping it onto the ground! that little yellow "low pressure" lamp gets pretty annoying after a while.
This. AND … the marks from the bars will be on the inside if you have to mount it on the vehicle.
 
A while back I put an Anderson SB-50 connector connected to the starter battery at the driver's side kick plate so as to charge my Yeti Goal Zero 1500X while on the road. It was a hurry-up installation and held in place with velcro which wore out almost immediately. Well I finally got around to cleaning up the installation with a Powerwerx SB-50 surface mount housing (Powerwerx PanelPodSB for Anderson SB50 Series Connectors - https://powerwerx.com/panelpodsb-anderson-sb50-mounting-pod ) and added a plain old NoCo cigarette lighter tap while I was at it. I have the same thing on the passenger's side connected to the 2nd battery. It's connected to a 60A Blue Sea breaker (the one on the right in the 2nd picture below) in the engine compartment.
Last photo is test charging the Yeti using the updated setup with 450+ watts! :bounce:

Electrical-wise, I'm almost done with this truck.

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60A breaker on right feeds the SB-50 at driver's left footwell.
500A relay and 120A breaker to left feeds the rear bumper's SB-175 for trailer charging.

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The middle photo has some braided wire or cover. Where did you find that?
 

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