What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (18 Viewers)

[AnyMal]

I tapped the back of the lower cigarette lighter, wired to a 12v cigarette lighter socket tucked into a pocket under the HVAC ducting, then taped a high power Belkin USBC charger in there. I first tried a 12v to USBC power supply on amazon but it apparently didn't have the power to run the magsafe puck. It would charge on lightning cable just fine (though I don't know how fast), but the magsafe showed no charging.

I'm not familiar enough with whether the 12v leg of USBC needs to be "clean" or whatever.. or if it actually uses the 5V leg instead? The above was more hardware and cost but I know everything will play nice.

Part of the motivation for the 3D project is actually to learn how to do it. Thanks for the recs though, I'm an utter noob in this space and any info is good info.

Honestly, that route is way better / safer / correct.
The charging circuit will negotiate voltage and power with the brick, and not a lot of stuff will charge above 5V that I know of.
Those specs lie in the USB-C PD standards. Not what iPhone uses, or whatever magsafe does...
So wheres a lightning cable will "pull" 5V up to 2 amps I believe (10W) standard, it can also negotiate from 12-24W as well.
iPhones still do not support ultra fast charge though beyond that. Nor do they come with a charger lol.

USB-C PD devices can go up to a 100W. The USB-C iphone and magsafe cables, I believe have the chip in the tail end of the cable at the plug.
You'll notice those are usually larger/longer and may even have an LED indicator on non apple stuff.
Thats where It might get interesting, giving that cable 12v might be possible, but where it fails is that USB controller requires host communications and handshake.

You have me curious though, remind me what wattage the 12v cig lighter provide in our truck? I know the rear circuit is similar and thats running the 100W inverter.
It may be possible at least to use the 12v for ultra fast usb-c charging and iPad pro for example, which charges extremely slow for those using On-X etc.
You would just need to steal the socket and blank cap the front. Or just use something that promises the moon, complete with burning plastic competition.
Amazon product ASIN B0BLYX8SHZ

 

[bloc]

Honestly, that route is way better / safer / correct.
The charging circuit will negotiate voltage and power with the brick, and not a lot of stuff will charge above 5V that I know of.
Those specs lie in the USB-C PD standards. Not what iPhone uses, or whatever magsafe does...
So wheres a lightning cable will "pull" 5V up to 2 amps I believe (10W) standard, it can also negotiate from 12-24W as well.
iPhones still do not support ultra fast charge though beyond that. Nor do they come with a charger lol.

USB-C PD devices can go up to a 100W. The USB-C iphone and magsafe cables, I believe have the chip in the tail end of the cable at the plug.
You'll notice those are usually larger/longer and may even have an LED indicator on non apple stuff.
Thats where It might get interesting, giving that cable 12v might be possible, but where it fails is that USB controller requires host communications and handshake.

You have me curious though, remind me what wattage the 12v cig lighter provide in our truck? I know the rear circuit is similar and thats running the 100W inverter.
It may be possible at least to use the 12v for ultra fast usb-c charging and iPad pro for example, which charges extremely slow for those using On-X etc.
You would just need to steal the socket and blank cap the front. Or just use something that promises the moon, complete with burning plastic competition.
Amazon product ASIN B0BLYX8SHZ

The top socket which toyota calls a cigarette lighter has its own 15A fuse. The lower shares a 15A fuse with the socket in the back of the center console.. in rigs that have one anyway. Beyond that I'm not sure. Note that the inverter is on yet another 15A fuse.

The single USBC adapter I got from Belkin states 20W which I felt was enough given my needs. I believe magsafe gives up some raw efficiency/speed for convenience. Belkin does make a USBC/USBA adapter that states 37W but I'm unsure whether it can provide all of that on just the USBC side..

 

[tbisaacs]

Slight upgrade

 

[TN LX570]

Wired up a MagSafe puck to get my phone out of the cup holder and preserve the lightning port. Worked very well over a 6k mile trip to PNW.

I have an idea for something far better when I get a small 3D printer..

Another option with the oem magsafe is the pro clip USA holder. It's served me well.

 

[Killacaviar]

Slight upgrade

View attachment 3324567

Nothing slight about that. If they work as well as the timbrens then your in for a treat. Especially off road and lowered doing 80.

 

[tbisaacs]

Nothing slight about that. If they work as well as the timbrens then your in for a treat. Especially off road and lowered doing 80.

I can’t wait! Haven’t got rear yet, still sorting long travel out in my head.

 

[bloc]

Another option with the oem magsafe is the pro clip USA holder. It's served me well.

View attachment 3324665

Those do seem like a great option for people that want to see the screen while driving. Not usually the way I get around, and I’d rather have the vent clear.

 

[ROMR NTX]

Would love to see pics of how far back it goes. I plan on doing this one from LFD as well.

 

[davevm]

Another option with the oem magsafe is the pro clip USA holder. It's served me well.

View attachment 3324665

I’m confused. That’s not the proclip mount, or at least not one they currently sell. Their design attaches to the top and the bottom of the vent.

 

[teejnut]

Slight upgrade

View attachment 3324567

How do you like these bump stops?

 

[tbisaacs]

How do you like these bump stops?

I’ll let ya know

 

[Julian73]

SDHQ hidden winch install. Decided to try a Badlands Apex 1200. For under $600 with synthetic rope, I don't think you can go wrong. Install almost looks factory. Then third row removal. Still need to order the Heritage cargo mat. Also tweaked the preload on the front Kings to offset the weight of the winch. Going in for an alignment tomorrow. Big thank you to @bloc for finding a random Toyota part (1KZ turbo manifold bolt) that works really well for getting the adjustment collar past the reservoir hose, using a hammer and punch. Took all of 15 minutes per side to do 6 turns each.

Did the same, and also mounted the SDHQ-modified OE switch panel. I agree they should provide an option to angle the Switch Pros panel up a bit.

I installed my Redarc tow controler on the left, I can't see it on the right. It conveys some important status via the lights and I want to be able to stab it without hunting should I want manual emergency braking.

I've Redraw Tow controller on the right side for going on 3 yr now. With steering wheel straight ahead it's not visible without a head movement, but I felt more comfortable stabbing it with my right hand for an emergency. Before wiring I mock mounted it on left and right.

What I switched around now from about 4 months ago was flipped auxiliary backup lights from by the column to the LHS switch bank (this is an on/off) of bumper mounted reserve lights that still require vehicle to be in reverse to actually illuminate (changed it's back lighting to late model Toyo blue and on indication to green), moved my Baja OnX6 light bar dimmer from LH bank to Column as I never use it and moved the dual battery link ( for emergency start and windchill boost) from left side of steering column to right side. This required me to cut a new under dash panel. Placement along column is not perfect, but under framing limits locations.

 

[TN LX570]

I’m confused. That’s not the proclip mount, or at least not one they currently sell. Their design attaches to the top and the bottom of the vent.

It’s just the holder for the MagSafe charger, it’s not vehicle specific. You can attach it to one of their mounts or wherever you like.

 

[AnyMal]

I've had it on the right for going on 3 yr now. With steering wheel straight ahead it's not visible without a head movement, but I felt more comfortable stabbing it with my right hand for an emergency. Before wiring I mock mounted it on left and right. What I switched around now from about 4 months ago was flipped auxiliary backup lights from by column to switch bank (this is an on/off) of bumper mounted reserve lights that still require vehicle to be in reverse to actually illuminate (changes it's back lighting to late model Toyo blue and on to green), moved my Baja OnX6 light bar dimmer from band to Column as I never use it and moved dual battery link ( for emergency start and windchill boost) from left side of steering column to right. This required me to cut a new under dash panel. Placement along column is not perfect, but under framing limits locations.

Its not visible for me on the right either, as are some factory controls, but I drive with my left arm so I’m happy with it. I just cant figure out where to put anything else now. Although if things go well I wont have a fuel transfer switch to worry about.
Im thinking of doing a LC panel swap, but Im not sure if it will drop in. That will give me a few blanks on the left for future use.

 

[FxFormat]

Removed runningboards and added a strip of LED light, it’s dimmable and is 60” long. Sliders should be here today then I can slap them on. The wetness you see is Fluid film, nothing is leaking, We're headed to OBX this weekend for some beach driving so i want to protect it from the salt first

 

[ROMR NTX]

Removed runningboards and added a strip of LED light, it’s dimmable and is 60” long. Sliders should be here today then I can slap them on. The wetness you see is Fluid film, nothing is leaking, We're headed to OBX this weekend for some beach driving so i want to protect it from the salt first

View attachment 3325192

View attachment 3325193

awesome. I have sliders coming tomorrow and was thinking about something like this. Did you reuse the factory connector and if so, how? Where'd you get the lights?

 

[FxFormat]

awesome. I have sliders coming tomorrow and was thinking about something like this. Did you reuse the factory connector and if so, how? Where'd you get the lights?

Yes, cut off the factory connector from your runningboard and splice the wires into the LED strip lights and plug it up. These are the lights i used

Amazon product ASIN B01JUE9OLM

 

[Eggrollz]

Yes, cut off the factory connector from your runningboard and splice the wires into the LED strip lights and plug it up. These are the lights i used

Amazon product ASIN B01JUE9OLM

Got pics of the connection?

 

[FxFormat]

Got pics of the connection?

The top pic with the wire hanging down is the connection, simply splice the wires and tape them up with electrical tape and plug it in.

 

[ROMR NTX]

The top pic with the wire hanging down is the connection, simply splice the wires and tape them up with electrical tape and plug it in.

I think my confusion would be around the connector you're splicing onto the new LED light wired. that would have to come from the existing running board lights, right?