What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (22 Viewers)

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The only thing I did today was give it a bath and try to come up with a name.

The other thing I am doing right now is trying to find some company on the East coast that can mod my LC for me. I have a $15K budget. I'd like to get it started around 01 April....at least get the ordering of parts started...I'll need my LC 3rd week of April to make a run down to Florida...don;t expect parts to get in and things get started until after that. But I think im going fully monty.

Bumpers front and rear, winch, sliders, some electronics installed (ham radio, cameras), stiffer coils (I'd like to stick with stock height), a low profile roof rack, and associated gear for recovery (recovery points etc etc).

My first mod, tires, is done.

Anyone know a reputable company in the DC Metro Tri State area?
 
Cover piece came with the rig when I bought it but I am sure they sell it stock online....
Added stock Toy spacers to front struts to level her out
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Oil change
Tire rotation
Lubed driveshafts
Corrosion inspection (passed)
Inspected brakes (front pads are getting thin)

Per Rob's (@Taco2Cruiser) recommendation, I installed a Fumoto valve on the oil pan, to make it easier to drain the oil now that I have Budbuilt skids. I went with this one:

Amazon product ASIN B07D9FCRWM
Also got the hose kit. Had to drop the skid to install (geez that thing is heavy), but it seems to work well.

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Gonna fill buckets with warm water in a few minutes, head up to the self-serve car wash. Truck is filthy.
 
Well I did something a little odd...not sure if I was being too "OCD" but here goes. My 2018 LC has 7335 miles on it and I decided to lube the U joints and drive shafts. I was able to do it just fine except for the front U joints; my grease gun's tip is too big but I have a needle tip on order.

The somewhat interesting part is what I observed with the rear U joints. My grease is red and Toyota's grease is black. What I observed on the two U joints on the rear shaft is as follows:
Rear U joint: black grease came out of 3 cups, ONLY red grease came out of one cup.
Front U joint: black grease came out of 2 cups, ONLY red grease came out of two cups.

So were the U joints maybe shipped too dry? :confused:
 
Installed a slightly modified PowerTrays Tacoma bracket for my switchpros.

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I got sick of waiting for a sunglass bracket, so I made a not very nice looking bracket for the ashtray (I've never used the ashtray, so it is wasted space).

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The only thing I did today was give it a bath and try to come up with a name.

The other thing I am doing right now is trying to find some company on the East coast that can mod my LC for me. I have a $15K budget. I'd like to get it started around 01 April....at least get the ordering of parts started...I'll need my LC 3rd week of April to make a run down to Florida...don;t expect parts to get in and things get started until after that. But I think im going fully monty.

Bumpers front and rear, winch, sliders, some electronics installed (ham radio, cameras), stiffer coils (I'd like to stick with stock height), a low profile roof rack, and associated gear for recovery (recovery points etc etc).

My first mod, tires, is done.

Anyone know a reputable company in the DC Metro Tri State area?
OTRAMM is the guy you'd need. He's in Bealton, VA so I bit of a hike from where you are but definitely worth it
 
Tundra swap completed. Used bilstien 5100s and Eibach 2in lift springs on the front (650lb/in), with JBA Tundra UCAs. OME 2721 with firestone airbags in the rear, with 1.5in wheel spacers. Hub to Fender measurements are 21.5in front and 23in rear, which was just the amount of rake I was looking for. Coming from factory coils and spacers, the front was lifted about 1.5in. Swapped back to the factory wheels with 295/70R18 Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 3s in load range E. I had to set the Scanguage to +9% on the speedometer to read accurately vs GPS. I dont think you could go much, if any, larger and still fit in the spare tire well. Removed the front mud flaps and so far no rubbing.

Steering feels quite a bit better with the increased caster and lack of wheel spacers on the front.

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Next on the list is a regear to 4.88s, and some rubber mudflaps for the front.
 
I looked longingly at the Budbuilt sliders sitting in my garage and wished that I felt better and had either a heated garage or warmer weather so I could put them on.
 
Tundra swap completed. Used bilstien 5100s and Eibach 2in lift springs on the front (650lb/in), with JBA Tundra UCAs. OME 2721 with firestone airbags in the rear, with 1.5in wheel spacers. Hub to Fender measurements are 21.5in front and 23in rear, which was just the amount of rake I was looking for. Coming from factory coils and spacers, the front was lifted about 1.5in. Swapped back to the factory wheels with 295/70R18 Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 3s in load range E. I had to set the Scanguage to +9% on the speedometer to read accurately vs GPS. I dont think you could go much, if any, larger and still fit in the spare tire well. Removed the front mud flaps and so far no rubbing.

Steering feels quite a bit better with the increased caster and lack of wheel spacers on the front.

View attachment 2219956

Next on the list is a regear to 4.88s, and some rubber mudflaps for the front.
Regearing to 4.88s expensive? What type of gains will u get?
 
Finally finished the front bumper install. The wiring took a little longer than planned, but overall, I like it. I need to move the camera next week.
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Tundra swap completed. Used bilstien 5100s and Eibach 2in lift springs on the front (650lb/in), with JBA Tundra UCAs. OME 2721 with firestone airbags in the rear, with 1.5in wheel spacers...

Have you by chance measured your new front and rear track widths? I'm under the impression that 1.75" spacers would be required on the rear to match the track width of the Tundra conversion up front.
 
Tranny flash, filter. Broke one bolt, agonized with extractors, drilling, broken tap, diamond hole saw etc. Epic adventure but rethreaded and permatexed blue with no leak so far. 126k now and had only drain fills at 30, 60 and 90. Fluid came out dark but not too bad. Noticible smoothness at rolling flat or downhill also +1mpg.
New starter without taking manifold out. Could not get old sucker out from that tight space and had to take it out part by part but new one went in as a whole unit.Seems to start more agile.
New pulley. Old one was still like new.
New radiator replaced as a whole unit with brackets attached.
New Fan bracket. Old one was making grindy noise.
New belt. Old was still ok.
New spark plugs. Old on
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es were not too bad.

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You should share some more photos of this. It's a very clever idea. :cheers:
As requested my custom from stock bumper hitch cover. Remove stock cover, Cut out opening is 8" X 4 1/2 ". Pencil draw cut out, then drill a small hole in each corner,score with razor blade along pencil lines,cut out opening with a dremel or fine tooth saw,sand edges and paint to your liking, I used black truck bed liner.
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Installed ARB Roller Drawer, Roller Floor, 200 series kit, and roller floor fit kit adapter.

I wanted to try the roller floor to bring my ARB 63 fridge down some to make it easier to access. Mission accomplished!! I had the fridge on top of an ARB Roll Top Drawer in my 100 and you had to stand on tip-toes to see in it. With the roller floor it’s now below eye level when opened. It’s SO much easier to use.

I’m not quite sure what all I will carry in the little drawer below the fridge yet, but I do think it will be handy.

I’ve still got to run power to the back and install fridge tie downs but so far I’m very happy. There isn’t a ton of info out there on the roller floor and fit kit so I’ll probably do a write up after I use it for a week or two.

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Just home from 2081 mile trip to San Juan Mountains.
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