I just got around to removing the third row seats and the plastic engine covers on my 2014 LX570. I upgraded to this from my most loved 2000 LX 470 after some stupid cow in a 3/4 ton truck T-Boned and rolled me over. The LX allowed me walk away with zero injuries! I wanted another 100 series but my wife wanted to get something newer. I felt the 16 and up front end was too low and I could find no LC's. I was able to find a 2014. It is almost too nice. I haven't really used it the way I used my LX. I am slowly going to start using the vehicle the way it should so thank you all for the inspiration and knowledge that you so freely pass along!
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
- Thread starter MScruiser
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bloc
SILVER Star
Old post, I know... @2001LC I'm curious to hear your thoughts.
Just getting ready to change the oil again, and I left the HM 0w20 syn in there for nearly 5k miles - Is it the high mileage oil additives that you're saying are likely to crack the seals, or changing back to non HM oil after the HM has been there for a couple changes that is likely to crack seals? It is fully synthetic high mileage oil.
The HM oils are plenty easy to get of these days, so what reason is there to NOT run it for the life of my engine?
What are MUD's thoughts? I'm sure there are several out there using high mileage oils...?
I think they meant like crack the drug. As in you have to keep the seals high on it or they crash.
“Seal conditioners” generally means seal swellers. Basically they seek to expand rubber seals to add preload and seal up leaks. Personally I want my seals working with the designed parameters, not being softer due to the same rubber increasing in volume.
bloc
SILVER Star
Nearing 130k miles on my 2013 cruiser a couple days ago I changed the coolant with factory stuff and intended to change the plastic heater hose T’s but didn’t need to once I got it all apart.
Pretty straightforward.. just drain the radiator and engine block via the drain on the passenger side. It is 10mm and needs a lot of extensions.
Reading about coolant swaps in tundras apparently there is another block drain on the drivers side but a couple posts indicated if you drain the pass side first very little comes out the driver side.. and with the DS location not being obvious or easy to get to I left that side alone.
Many people know of the heater T’s in 100s failing and it seems like I had seen a couple posts of ours being far better but still prone to degradation. I ordered the parts but once I got mine apart they were literally perfect with 130k miles. Seeming to be better quality than the replacements (the originals had less visible “fibers” within the molded plastic and were molded slightly different) I just put it all back together.
I used low pressure compressed air not sealed onto the lines to push old coolant out of the long heater lines to the rear AC unit. Some old stuff definitely remained but I’m betting 85+% of the coolant now in it is new.
I didn’t do any testing but the old stuff looked really good, if a little more cloudy than the new. All the lines I saw the interior of were free of corrosion or any problems. Hopefully this change keeps it that way
Used a bit over 3.5 gallons.
Edit: I posted the above before I had a chance to drive it. Guess some air was trapped in the rear heat lines, as I couldn't get the rear to blow warm or hot. Some spirited driving must have provided enough water pump flow to get things pushed through.. it's working after a little driving around controlling the gears for some RPMs.
Pretty straightforward.. just drain the radiator and engine block via the drain on the passenger side. It is 10mm and needs a lot of extensions.
Reading about coolant swaps in tundras apparently there is another block drain on the drivers side but a couple posts indicated if you drain the pass side first very little comes out the driver side.. and with the DS location not being obvious or easy to get to I left that side alone.
Many people know of the heater T’s in 100s failing and it seems like I had seen a couple posts of ours being far better but still prone to degradation. I ordered the parts but once I got mine apart they were literally perfect with 130k miles. Seeming to be better quality than the replacements (the originals had less visible “fibers” within the molded plastic and were molded slightly different) I just put it all back together.
I used low pressure compressed air not sealed onto the lines to push old coolant out of the long heater lines to the rear AC unit. Some old stuff definitely remained but I’m betting 85+% of the coolant now in it is new.
I didn’t do any testing but the old stuff looked really good, if a little more cloudy than the new. All the lines I saw the interior of were free of corrosion or any problems. Hopefully this change keeps it that way
Used a bit over 3.5 gallons.
Edit: I posted the above before I had a chance to drive it. Guess some air was trapped in the rear heat lines, as I couldn't get the rear to blow warm or hot. Some spirited driving must have provided enough water pump flow to get things pushed through.. it's working after a little driving around controlling the gears for some RPMs.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Skid plates!
40 gallon sub tank! I also had diff breathers done too!
Wow. Looking forward to a tank photo...shot from behind at the level of the lower bumper...to see how much is visible below that level. That looks SUPER tucked for a 40...which will have me thinking I could have happily bumped up another 16 gallons from my 24.
40 gallons gets responses of being too heavy, etc, but it’s not like you have to keep it full.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Very helpful angle. Thank you.
@Mendocino , what does your transfer pump sound like?
Markuson
SILVER Star
An Apache helicopter coming in for a gun run.
According to my notes from another thread, , someone uses this pump.
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Meh, its fine.According to my notes from another thread, , someone uses this pump.
Faster and presumably quieter. Sucks to have to replace a new and expensive part.Airtex E84070N Airtex External Electric Fuel Pumps | Summit Racing
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Ya, that was my pump he’s referring to.
The regular pump is fine.
-My motivation to fiddle with a faster pump is just because I hope to eventually modify & create a “fueling station” ability to redirect fuel from my tank to an external fuel need like a motorcycle, buddy’s tank in a pinch, generator, etc. That way I could skip a jerry can even if toting some other engine to feed. Speed would be great for that since I’ll be standing there waiting. Otherwise...totally fine as is.
tampacruiser95
Upgrades are coming.
How much was the tank and about how many hours labor to install? I have a decent drive to work and I would love to stop for gas less often.
Let me know if you ever figure this out. Motorcycle refilling station would be super useful.
Ah - what to do to the 200 this week -
-- change engine oil -- easy
-- service transmission and replace fluid -- medium
-- troubleshoot electrical wiring issue preventing rear bumper brake lights from working -- PITA and procrastinating
-- change engine oil -- easy
-- service transmission and replace fluid -- medium
-- troubleshoot electrical wiring issue preventing rear bumper brake lights from working -- PITA and procrastinating
Just to clarify and you're not talking about the main rear lamps.
If you're talking about the smaller lenses mounted on the bumper immediately to the edges of the bumper step... Those are non-illuminated reflector lenses. Non lit in the US models. They are only functional fog lamps in other markets.
no, sorry for not being clearer ... im referring to my brake lights built in to my ARB rear bar.... not that long ago I had my bar repainted which required un-mounting it and full disassembly and vice versa.... well I didn't notice until i got home that the brake lights were stuck in the on position permanently. I had to remove the bulbs to shut them off until I fix the issue otherwise the bulbs staying on kill the battery. Considering the distance between the shop that did the paint work and my house is 750 miles apart... I'm inclined to fix it myself before taking it back to the shop.
