It would be a fun experiment
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (27 Viewers)
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Here's a short video where a guy in Australia mentions that the 10 inch unit can move air too slowly to clean it effectively. He suggests sticking with the 7"... but I dunno. Maybe worth a look. Not sure what engine the vehicle in the video is running.
What do y'all think? Anyone actually tried both?
Kurt, maybe you have customers who have tried both?
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I took a screen shot today going into work at 65 Mph with a 20mph head wind. I may add speedo and rpm to this custom screen. I will also tweak the maximum point and set alarms once I know what the danger temps are for transmission.
Awesome!! What were ambient temps? On the highway mine is pretty much 80°F above ambient.
Share temps when driving in stop/go city traffic and trail temps as well!
I appreciate it!
IIRC the oxidation rate of hydrocarbons doubles for every 18F over 180F. I don't have access to the Toyota FSM but ATF fluid is designed to operate around 200F (95C) and will quickly breakdown above 120C (about 240F).
The Role of the Chemist in Automotive Design
I would be curious if anyone knows the precise temp in which the A/T Temp light comes on, but I'd personally watch anything consistently over 220F closely and 240F would probably cause me to stop and wait for the transmission to cool even if the light hadn't come on.
I knew someone would know this. Thanks @linuxgod So what do folks think about transmission temp warning setpoint?
The pre cleaner is the 7" with the 3.5" tube. I can already see dust in it and mainly bought it for my expo trip since majority of driving will be dirt road. I have not noticed any difference, but you can really hear the engine suck air through. After my trip I will put the original top on. I have been through a car wash with the original top and I saw it take 1 of the strips off. If I go through again I will turn it backwards. Ill take pics of all the dirt and water it collects
That point should not be used to tie down a vehicle on a flat bed, it can be used for recovering your vehicle or another on/off road as well as by using the pintle hook.It was explained to me that the rear hook is not supposed to be used for towing or recovery. Even though Toyota calls it an "Emergency Towing Hook," it is only used as a vehicle tie-down point during transportation.
The Owner's Manual is not very definitive, but it does show this:
Markuson
SILVER Star
Notice they refer only to emergency *towing* on a "hard, surfaced road."
Snatch recoveries or yanking out of thick mud put WAY more stress than towing on "flat, surfaced roads..."
I think this is in regards to a completely immobile vehicle, with safety I think everyone frowns upon yanking a vehicle as you have so little in control in the manual it states to clear all debris and place rocks or wooden planks under the wheels to recover and if that fails to then tow the vehicle out, winching is always a safer option but if people use common sense its very easy to establish a danger zone and stay out of it. But when you're knee deep in muck sometimes you don't have many choices of how to recover
gaijin
GOLD Star
Let me be more clear.
I agree that the rear hook should not be used as a tie-down when transporting on a flatbed trailer. The use, as explained to me, was by Toyota when transporting the truck by boat - that is the only acceptable use.
Two consecutive pages in the Owner's Manual make it pretty clear:
And even from your manual for those of us with automatic transmissions:
HTH
I agree that the rear hook should not be used as a tie-down when transporting on a flatbed trailer. The use, as explained to me, was by Toyota when transporting the truck by boat - that is the only acceptable use.
Two consecutive pages in the Owner's Manual make it pretty clear:
And even from your manual for those of us with automatic transmissions:
HTH
Markuson
SILVER Star
Let me be more clear.
I agree that the rear hook should not be used as a tie-down when transporting on a flatbed trailer. The use, as explained to me, was by Toyota when transporting the truck by boat - that is the only acceptable use.
Two consecutive pages in the Owner's Manual make it pretty clear:
And even from your manual for those of us with automatic transmissions:
HTH
I think we agree.
I'm just thinking of how the momentum and built-up force of snatching a vehicle puts far more stress on any point than towing does. I'm no expert. Just thinking...
I can "tow" a vehicle pulling it with a rope by hand.
When I was recently snatched, I was amazed at how much force was required.
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Your point is clear and I agree with you, from my understanding you shouldn't have your cruiser towed from the rear hook (where towing requires your vehicle to be in neutral and pulled over a distance), whereas it can be used for vehicle recovery when a vehicle is stuck. (Which is just to free your vehicle or another which is in gear and needs to gain traction to the wheels).Let me be more clear.
I agree that the rear hook should not be used as a tie-down when transporting on a flatbed trailer. The use, as explained to me, was by Toyota when transporting the truck by boat - that is the only acceptable use.
Two consecutive pages in the Owner's Manual make it pretty clear:
And even from your manual for those of us with automatic transmissions:
HTH
Or I might just be understanding everything completely backwards which usually happens.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I have this feeling Toyota's army of lawyers spent considerable time on those few pages you posted.
Everyone is covering their butts and the wording it interesting... They mention "damage to your vehicle" using the rear points, but from the look of those rear hooks, and the hooks stick out at a 45 degree angle making them almost sure to snap with major force. The front hooks look way stronger with no such angle. But meh... I dunno... When my Cruiser was recovered from that nasty goo, we pulled from a heavy ring mounted to a steel block in the tow hitch.
I have this feeling Toyota's army of lawyers spent considerable time on those few pages you posted.
But meh... I dunno... When my Cruiser was recovered from that nasty goo, we pulled from a heavy ring mounted to a steel block in the tow hitch.
Yes- I think it is saying use only the front row hooks in the context of towing on a road and having to spell it out for some owners that might try using something else on the front end (like the axle or plastic bumper)- not in the context that you could not use the rear point to extricate a stuck vehicle.
I bet they would have a lot to say about modifying the bumpers, adding sliders, skids, roof racks, 5000 watts of extra light, lift, dual batteries, bigger tires and smaller wheels. So I'm already living on the edge base on owners manual standards.
I think I will order the front ARB tow hook and put on the rear as another option for rear recovery other than my tow bar hitch with Clovis. (And since the factory one will not fit as previously pointed out)
I have this feeling Toyota's army of lawyers spent considerable time on those few pages you posted.
But meh... I dunno... When my Cruiser was recovered from that nasty goo, we pulled from a heavy ring mounted to a steel block in the tow hitch.
Hey Markuson,
How does one order these lovely red hooks? I looked on the ARB site and didn't see them available. I just got my 2016 yesterday and would love these to be a first mod.
Thanks so much, John
Trimmed the plastic around the receiver hitch last night. I had hooked up my weight distribution hitch this week in preparation for towing my trailer, and found that the Master Lock locking hitch pin required significant effort to fit due to the slightly larger ends which support the lock.
As a bonus, dremmeling away that plastic also got rid of the bright yellow "See Owners Manual" sticker.
As a bonus, dremmeling away that plastic also got rid of the bright yellow "See Owners Manual" sticker.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I bought the first one from Cruiser Outfitters. I bought their last one, but they said more should be arriving in two weeks (which would be the next few days). I'd check with them first. If they don't have any...I bought my second one from cruiserheads.com in Florida.
They are called "ARB Recovery Point" for the Land Cruiser 200. They come with the bolts and washers, and install takes only a few short minutes. Just remove two bolts from existing...then add the new washers/bolts and torque it to 88 ft. lbs.
Thanks Markuson,
I've put the order then with a note that I've got the 2016. So, hopefully it's the same unit.
