What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (44 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Installed the OEM front spacers, @arich thanks for the tips to avoid breaking the ball joint & tie rod loose! My shutter valves opened just fine with a little PB, unit looks good still.
That's the trick on the install? I want to order a set for mine.
Markuson
SILVER Star
No bull-bar winch yet, but these help...
Have you had to use them?
Markuson
SILVER Star
It's two pair...four total. 2 red, 2 black. They are either connectable, if needed...or one at each corner if really bogged.
-Red so easier to see while using/steering...
-Black is so I can draw less attention to them when they are eventually mounted either on a roof rack, or rear tire carrier.
-I can mount all four in a stack with black facing out.
Not a big deal, but like the idea of being a little less obvious or eye-catching.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Right now all four fit in a bag in the back. Eventually I'll use Maxtrax mounting pins on a roof rack or a dedicated spare tire mount. Either option will handle all four in a stack.
In their bag, they actually fit almost perfectly wedged between the Second row seat back, and shape of the rear wheel well in the rear cargo area. They're also just the right length if you want them to lie front to back along one side in rear cargo area, assuming you don't have the third row seats in. Mine are removed.
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Special delivery from Rigger!
With a little help from my daughter!
Boom we are ready to load up our Cargo Carrier to the brim!
Thank you Rigger!
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I wanted black, back when they were on sale but they were out. Would have looked good and like you said, less eye catching for someone to snatch. Looks good.
Perfect packaging Rigger, no worries! Thank you
ARB Outback Solutions Rear Drawer Installation:
I installed by myself, I wanted to add a few comments on this that may help future folks doing this. I added these to a link in the FAQ section on Drawer install also. I went with the drawer and slider top drawer for my fridge and with the size recommend for a 200 series.
First of all, despite was what previously posted -everything went together perfectly and all the parts were included that were needed. However, it took more time than expected- mostly due to trying to understand the instructions. Now that I have done one, I think I could do another in about an hour. The following is a list of tips and advice.
1. Read the instructions, highlight the 200 sections, then read my notes below. Hopefully it will fill in a lot for you.- The instructions are generic for all vehicles with a small section on the "200 Series Specific". As a result, you will find yourself going from page, back to a section, and then back. Honestly, they won't make a lot of sense at first. They are written in a way that if you had done one before on another vehicle, it would make perfect sense. It was like each time I got to a step, I had to sorta figure it out on my own and then I look at the instructions and it was like- Oh- that makes sense.
2. You do not have to relocate the cross bottom members- this saves a step with a lot of measurements. They way the drawers come, are the way they are installed as far as the "hat bar" as they call it is positioned.
3. All the dimensions are in mm- so get out a phone and do the conversions if needed to inches and write on instructions.
4. There are 4 points where the drawers mount to existing bolt holes of the truck. There is no drilling. When you remove the jump seats, out of the 8 bolts, two will be left open for the support bolts for the rear support (front part of the drawers from the back door). I think it was the inner bolts on the floor that go back in, leaving the outer open. See pic
5. The rear of the drawers (near the front of the the Cruiser) mounting point is to the floor recess hooks where the jump seat feet latch down. You will remove those front latch points (rear part of drawer). Pop off the plastic cover and you will see the bolts. It will be the outer bolt holes that are used. You will need to cut the plastic way from what appears to be part of the AC vent channel. Don't worry, there is plenty of the excess lip of this plastic to cut away before you cut into the actual vent area. IMPORTANT- Cut enough so that the spacer (mentioned next) will fit over the bolt holes. Cut some of the carpet and fold back under. see pic
6. Each of these mounting points use spacers that are specified in the instructions. The rear of drawer spacers (front of truck) uses a total of 30 mm. There are these black spacers in the kit of various sizes. For 30 mm, just put 3 of the 10mm spacers together. The size is actually marked on the plastic. They push together like Legos. Trim the nipples of of the top one when you have them together. The Front of drawer spacers (rear of truck) use a total of 15mm.
7. These same spacers are used on the front of the drawers bottom to level it out. The instructions show the total height- I think it was 20mm. They just push on the bottom lip. (there are pre-drilled holes that match the nipples).
8. I used two sets of saw horses to attach the drawers together. No need to loosely put together- tighten them up. You do have to take the tops off and remove the drawers before mounting together. To remove the drawers, you have to take unbolt the drawer slide stop from the inside rear. Make a note (picture) of the direction and side of those stops- will just make it easier to re-assemble. The instructions show to how drive the joiner bracket on the cross-member using a hammer- easy.
9. After attaching the drawers together, if you don't trust my comments, this is the time to place the drawer frame in truck and verify that the mounting holes line up- they will.
10. Remove from truck (if you checked fit). Next up is the put on the side fit kit brackets. Instructions are fine here.
11. Put drawer frame in truck. Get those spacers and place under the cross member of drawer (hat bar) with the bolts provide and sizes per the instructions- IMPORTANT- several bolts are the same size- some with course thread and some with fine. Use the fine thread- of course.
12. The Oblique Washers- are those rectangle metal things that look like a thin spacer. These fit in the channel of the drawer frame to bolt it down. Bolt it down loosely then tightly per instructions.
13. IMPORTANT- Install the front of drawer side trim fill supports (the fill in on the trim kit from the front of the drawers on either side) before putting drawers back into frame in the truck.
14. Now you get to put the drawers in and reinstall the rear drawer stops. It is not hard, you just have to climb in and line it up with a light and bolt back together. There is a side roller on those stops and they only go one way, so use that picture you snapped when they came off as a reference of how they go back in.
15. Check operation of drawers- including full out stop. Put top of drawers back on and install side trim tops and you are done.
Hope this helps folks in the future. I had a lot of distractions when doing this and had to start and stop a few time which didn't help.
Last edited: Today at 12:52 PM
I installed by myself, I wanted to add a few comments on this that may help future folks doing this. I added these to a link in the FAQ section on Drawer install also. I went with the drawer and slider top drawer for my fridge and with the size recommend for a 200 series.
First of all, despite was what previously posted -everything went together perfectly and all the parts were included that were needed. However, it took more time than expected- mostly due to trying to understand the instructions. Now that I have done one, I think I could do another in about an hour. The following is a list of tips and advice.
1. Read the instructions, highlight the 200 sections, then read my notes below. Hopefully it will fill in a lot for you.- The instructions are generic for all vehicles with a small section on the "200 Series Specific". As a result, you will find yourself going from page, back to a section, and then back. Honestly, they won't make a lot of sense at first. They are written in a way that if you had done one before on another vehicle, it would make perfect sense. It was like each time I got to a step, I had to sorta figure it out on my own and then I look at the instructions and it was like- Oh- that makes sense.
2. You do not have to relocate the cross bottom members- this saves a step with a lot of measurements. They way the drawers come, are the way they are installed as far as the "hat bar" as they call it is positioned.
3. All the dimensions are in mm- so get out a phone and do the conversions if needed to inches and write on instructions.
4. There are 4 points where the drawers mount to existing bolt holes of the truck. There is no drilling. When you remove the jump seats, out of the 8 bolts, two will be left open for the support bolts for the rear support (front part of the drawers from the back door). I think it was the inner bolts on the floor that go back in, leaving the outer open. See pic
5. The rear of the drawers (near the front of the the Cruiser) mounting point is to the floor recess hooks where the jump seat feet latch down. You will remove those front latch points (rear part of drawer). Pop off the plastic cover and you will see the bolts. It will be the outer bolt holes that are used. You will need to cut the plastic way from what appears to be part of the AC vent channel. Don't worry, there is plenty of the excess lip of this plastic to cut away before you cut into the actual vent area. IMPORTANT- Cut enough so that the spacer (mentioned next) will fit over the bolt holes. Cut some of the carpet and fold back under. see pic
6. Each of these mounting points use spacers that are specified in the instructions. The rear of drawer spacers (front of truck) uses a total of 30 mm. There are these black spacers in the kit of various sizes. For 30 mm, just put 3 of the 10mm spacers together. The size is actually marked on the plastic. They push together like Legos. Trim the nipples of of the top one when you have them together. The Front of drawer spacers (rear of truck) use a total of 15mm.
7. These same spacers are used on the front of the drawers bottom to level it out. The instructions show the total height- I think it was 20mm. They just push on the bottom lip. (there are pre-drilled holes that match the nipples).
8. I used two sets of saw horses to attach the drawers together. No need to loosely put together- tighten them up. You do have to take the tops off and remove the drawers before mounting together. To remove the drawers, you have to take unbolt the drawer slide stop from the inside rear. Make a note (picture) of the direction and side of those stops- will just make it easier to re-assemble. The instructions show to how drive the joiner bracket on the cross-member using a hammer- easy.
9. After attaching the drawers together, if you don't trust my comments, this is the time to place the drawer frame in truck and verify that the mounting holes line up- they will.
10. Remove from truck (if you checked fit). Next up is the put on the side fit kit brackets. Instructions are fine here.
11. Put drawer frame in truck. Get those spacers and place under the cross member of drawer (hat bar) with the bolts provide and sizes per the instructions- IMPORTANT- several bolts are the same size- some with course thread and some with fine. Use the fine thread- of course.
12. The Oblique Washers- are those rectangle metal things that look like a thin spacer. These fit in the channel of the drawer frame to bolt it down. Bolt it down loosely then tightly per instructions.
13. IMPORTANT- Install the front of drawer side trim fill supports (the fill in on the trim kit from the front of the drawers on either side) before putting drawers back into frame in the truck.
14. Now you get to put the drawers in and reinstall the rear drawer stops. It is not hard, you just have to climb in and line it up with a light and bolt back together. There is a side roller on those stops and they only go one way, so use that picture you snapped when they came off as a reference of how they go back in.
15. Check operation of drawers- including full out stop. Put top of drawers back on and install side trim tops and you are done.
Hope this helps folks in the future. I had a lot of distractions when doing this and had to start and stop a few time which didn't help.
Last edited: Today at 12:52 PM
Markuson
SILVER Star
Great write-up! Drawers have gone way up my priority list and will likely go in ahead of a rear or front bumpers. They are just too useful to leave off. I had them in my 100 and sorely miss them now.
I installed my 100's drawers with similarly weird directions. A pain...but worth the effort.
I'll definitely break out this post when the time comes. Thanks.
Markuson
I like the reflection of the 100 in the background!
Matt, that's s cool idea to add two more factory load bars to the stock setup. Looks like it will work perfect.
Totally agree. May have gone that route had I thought of it first.
Love the construction and strength. For RTT and jerry cans, seems a great route to go.
I'm (im)patiently waiting for the new Slee rear bumper. Saw it at Cruise Moab. If the price matches my budget, I'm going for it. If the price doesn't match my budget, I'll sink into a depression and turn to this thread and you Mudders for counseling. I might need you guys to help me raise the money. Maybe a bake sale? Or a community car wash?
