What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (17 Viewers)

[LX Cruiser]

I had a bit of time to get a couple things done to the LX yesterday. I replaced the PCV valve. 3 minute job and a $6 part. The original was seized. It's supposed to rattle when shaken, but my old one is totally gunked up. I'm thinking that this is going to fix the milkshake under the oil cap that I have been noticing lately. If not, I might add a catch can, but I think the new PCV valve fixed that issue.

I also preventatively applied some JB Weld to the radiator. I had the very beginnings of a faint stress crack. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, roughed up the surface a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned it again and again with rubbing alcohol. I applied it pretty thick and did my best to make sure there were no bubbles or air pockets underneath. I'll sand it down nicely this weekend. I'll continue to monitor it, and I think I'm now good to take longer trips in the LX without worry.

I also put some overpriced terminal blocks and a battery hold down in. The old clamps were in bad shape. I do need to swap the battery. Currently running the AC Delco that was in it when I bought it. I will start researching the forum to find out what everyone is putting in their 200 series Cruisers. Seems that most people decide against an AGM. Seeing this pics reminds me I still need to thoroughly clean the cable ends.

 

[TeCKis300]

I had a bit of time to get a couple things done to the LX yesterday. I replaced the PCV valve. 3 minute job and a $6 part. The original was seized. It's supposed to rattle when shaken, but my old one is totally gunked up. I'm thinking that this is going to fix the milkshake under the oil cap that I have been noticing lately. If not, I might add a catch can, but I think the new PCV valve fixed that issue.

I also preventatively applied some JB Weld to the radiator. I had the very beginnings of a faint stress crack. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, roughed up the surface a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned it again and again with rubbing alcohol. I applied it pretty thick and did my best to make sure there were no bubbles or air pockets underneath. I'll sand it down nicely this weekend. I'll continue to monitor it, and I think I'm now good to take longer trips in the LX without worry.
View attachment 3244537

I also put some overpriced terminal blocks and a battery hold down in. The old clamps were in bad shape. I do need to swap the battery. Currently running the AC Delco that was in it when I bought it. I will start researching the forum to find out what everyone is putting in their 200 series Cruisers. Seems that most people decide against an AGM. Seeing this pics reminds me I still need to thoroughly clean the cable ends.
View attachment 3244538

I know many find it hard to believe. But IMO with composites work, if you caught it early enough and the epoxy bonded well, you'll never have to replace that radiator. At least for the common crack. It's as good as fixed because the root issue is the geometry of that section leading to a stress riser. There's building anecdotal evidence to back that up as some are on the original radiator with that patch well into 200k miles. Good job!

 

[Eggrollz]

MOAAAR!!!

That’s a lotta sidewall bulge! Am I reading correctly - 275/70r18?? Looks wider

Yep 275/70

 

[Nothinghead]

Yep 275/70

View attachment 3244736

Nice. Specs on those wheels? AHC sensor lift?

 

[Eggrollz]

Nice. Specs on those wheels? AHC sensor lift?

18x9.5 +0 and front sensor lift only.

 

[CharlieS]

I had a bit of time to get a couple things done to the LX yesterday. I replaced the PCV valve. 3 minute job and a $6 part. The original was seized. It's supposed to rattle when shaken, but my old one is totally gunked up. I'm thinking that this is going to fix the milkshake under the oil cap that I have been noticing lately. If not, I might add a catch can, but I think the new PCV valve fixed that issue.

I also preventatively applied some JB Weld to the radiator. I had the very beginnings of a faint stress crack. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, roughed up the surface a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned it again and again with rubbing alcohol. I applied it pretty thick and did my best to make sure there were no bubbles or air pockets underneath. I'll sand it down nicely this weekend. I'll continue to monitor it, and I think I'm now good to take longer trips in the LX without worry.
View attachment 3244537

I also put some overpriced terminal blocks and a battery hold down in. The old clamps were in bad shape. I do need to swap the battery. Currently running the AC Delco that was in it when I bought it. I will start researching the forum to find out what everyone is putting in their 200 series Cruisers. Seems that most people decide against an AGM. Seeing this pics reminds me I still need to thoroughly clean the cable ends.
View attachment 3244538

Friendly reminder to insulate exposed metal on the + terminal.

 

[Tex68w]

I had a bit of time to get a couple things done to the LX yesterday. I replaced the PCV valve. 3 minute job and a $6 part. The original was seized. It's supposed to rattle when shaken, but my old one is totally gunked up. I'm thinking that this is going to fix the milkshake under the oil cap that I have been noticing lately. If not, I might add a catch can, but I think the new PCV valve fixed that issue.

I also preventatively applied some JB Weld to the radiator. I had the very beginnings of a faint stress crack. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, roughed up the surface a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned it again and again with rubbing alcohol. I applied it pretty thick and did my best to make sure there were no bubbles or air pockets underneath. I'll sand it down nicely this weekend. I'll continue to monitor it, and I think I'm now good to take longer trips in the LX without worry.
View attachment 3244537

I also put some overpriced terminal blocks and a battery hold down in. The old clamps were in bad shape. I do need to swap the battery. Currently running the AC Delco that was in it when I bought it. I will start researching the forum to find out what everyone is putting in their 200 series Cruisers. Seems that most people decide against an AGM. Seeing this pics reminds me I still need to thoroughly clean the cable ends.
View attachment 3244538

At what mileage/age are guys suggesting to replace the PCV? P/N?

 

[nautiquelover]

At what mileage/age are guys suggesting to replace the PCV? P/N?

We had to replace ours at about 85k since it was burning oil. No longer have that problem since the replacement.

 

[Pacer]

I had a bit of time to get a couple things done to the LX yesterday. I replaced the PCV valve. 3 minute job and a $6 part. The original was seized. It's supposed to rattle when shaken, but my old one is totally gunked up. I'm thinking that this is going to fix the milkshake under the oil cap that I have been noticing lately. If not, I might add a catch can, but I think the new PCV valve fixed that issue.

I also preventatively applied some JB Weld to the radiator. I had the very beginnings of a faint stress crack. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, roughed up the surface a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned it again and again with rubbing alcohol. I applied it pretty thick and did my best to make sure there were no bubbles or air pockets underneath. I'll sand it down nicely this weekend. I'll continue to monitor it, and I think I'm now good to take longer trips in the LX without worry.
View attachment 3244537

I also put some overpriced terminal blocks and a battery hold down in. The old clamps were in bad shape. I do need to swap the battery. Currently running the AC Delco that was in it when I bought it. I will start researching the forum to find out what everyone is putting in their 200 series Cruisers. Seems that most people decide against an AGM. Seeing this pics reminds me I still need to thoroughly clean the cable ends.
View attachment 3244538

How were your battery terminals deteriorated, did they really warrent replacement?

And, I'm sorry, but what is prohibitive about actually replacing the radiator and doing the work that goes along with this repair properly?

I would hate to drive around with JB weld slopped all over my radiator like so, thinking, boy I really saved a buck.

These OEM materials deteriorate over time, I said it in the '08 radiator replacement thread and I'll say it here, Mr. Toyota gives to you a gift, placing the weak spot right in front of you when you open the hood. When it shows signs of deterioration, replace the unit and the other wear items like fan support bracket, serpentine belt, water pump etc.

Ridiculousness!

 

[TeCKis300]

How were your battery terminals deteriorated, did they really warrent replacement?

And, I'm sorry, but what is prohibitive about actually replacing the radiator and doing the work that goes along with this repair properly?

I would hate to drive around with JB weld slopped all over my radiator like so, thinking, boy I really saved a buck.

These OEM materials deteriorate over time, I said it in the '08 radiator replacement thread and I'll say it here, Mr. Toyota gives to you a gift, placing the weak spot right in front of you when you open the hood. When it shows signs of deterioration, replace the unit and the other wear items like fan support bracket, serpentine belt, water pump etc.

Ridiculousness!

Is it the negative connotations of glue? Because this ain't Elmer's glue you grew up with.

Epoxies and adhesives are found all over your car straight from the manufacture. Used correctly, it can be stronger than the substrate.

 

[Pacer]

Is it the negative connotations of glue? Because this ain't Elmer's glue you grew up with.

Epoxies and adhesives are found all over your car straight from the manufacture. Used correctly, it can be stronger than the substrate.

I hear you, but the material the radiator tanks are made from is breaking down. There are many other manufacturers who suffer from these cost reduction measures (bmw) also.

If you prevent it from failing in this manufactured weak spot, Murphy says it will fail elsewhere. Might as well get it over with!

 

[TeCKis300]

I hear you, but the material the radiator tanks are made from is breaking down. There are many other manufacturers who suffer from these cost reduction measures (bmw) also.

If you prevent it from failing in this manufactured weak spot, Murphy says it will fail elsewhere. Might as well get it over with!

I understand what you're saying but this is a different issue and not really due to it breaking down. I have some background working with aircraft composites. The root cause is the geometry of the feature. You see that it is corrected in the later radiator versions where there's a nice fillet, and I'd wager it's not any thicker. The epoxy can accomplish the same thing because it's being use to correct the geometry that creates the crack, rather than sealing the crack.

 

[Pacer]

I understand what you're saying but this is a different issue and not really due to it breaking down. I have some background working with aircraft composites. The root cause is the geometry of the feature. You see that it is corrected in the later radiator versions where there's a nice fillet, and I'd wager it's not any thicker. The epoxy can accomplish the same thing because it's being use to correct the geometry that creates the crack, rather than sealing the crack.

To each their own.
There are other action items to handle under the hood by the time the radiator shows signs of deterioration. I would be hard-pressed to put it back in there once I had completed the rest of the maintenance.
I'm aware of the '18+ rev4 radiator and put one in my '08. I will put the same in my '16 when the time comes.

Apologies for the sidebar all.
I installed a couple of Gobi ladders and modified Tim's Rack to work with it recently.

Go Birds

 

[CharlieS]

Would it add any benefit to shape the fillet with a tool or gloved finger rather than globbing it on? I seem to remember that being important in composite boat building.

 

[AnyMal]

Yep 275/70

View attachment 3244736

This is honestly tripping me out right now. I dont even know what to think.

 

[Eggrollz]

This is honestly tripping me out right now. I dont even know what to think.

Is that a good thing or bad? lol

 

[Bullgump]

People on this forum trip me out the way yall climb in someone's ass about what they did to their rigs. Gate keepers at its finest. Ridiculousness. Lol

 

[LX Cruiser]

At what mileage/age are guys suggesting to replace the PCV? P/N?

I don’t know when mine gunked up. Bought the truck with 150k miles. Just replaced at 152k. P/N: 12204-38010

How were your battery terminals deteriorated, did they really warrent replacement?

Positive terminal fell apart as I removed it. It’s a wonder the truck would even start.

If you prevent it from failing in this manufactured weak spot, Murphy says it will fail elsewhere. Might as well get it over with!

No. It does not follow that reinforcing the area around the one point where the radiator is only millimeters thick will then cause a weak point somewhere else. These radiators–manufactured weak point notwithstanding–are generally good for a very long time. Most high mileage Tundras are on their original radiator and water pump. If I need to replace mine in the next 100k miles, I’ll be very surprised.

 

[LX Cruiser]

Would it add any benefit to shape the fillet with a tool or gloved finger rather than globbing it on? I seem to remember that being important in composite boat building.

Are you talking about my JB Weld job? If so, I added several light layers, shaped it with gloves on, and made sure there were no air pockets or bubbles. It is sandable once fully cured. Maybe then it won’t offend so many delicate Mud forum eyes. Lol.

 

[Killacaviar]

Are you talking about my JB Weld job? If so, I added several light layers, shaped it with gloves on, and made sure there were no air pockets or bubbles. It is sandable once fully cured. Maybe then it won’t offend so many delicate Mud forum eyes. Lol.

I ran jb on my radiator for about 1000 miles. It ended up failing. Not catastrophically, just a pin hole leak.