What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (17 Viewers)

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“...tinted windows don’t mean nothing, they know who’s inside...”

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Nice purchase. Congrats. Youll feel the weight of those once installed. Just like the weight of sliders itll fade from thought. I did the stage 3 which is everything but the gas tank skid. They are extremely robust. On my front skid theres threaded holes in the truck frame that the skid attaches to. One of the threads nuts was missing on my truck for some reason so had to run a longer bolt and nut to secure it. No worries but if you run into that, theres your work around tip.
Enjoy those skids. I also placed some double sided foam tape between the over laps on the skids to kill any chatter. Didnt figure that out until after i ran HITR trail.
Great tip on the double sided tape! I hope to get my stage 2 on this weekend. What’s the consensus on bolts...dry, loctite, anti seize?
 
This week I started going over my new to me '09. First up was the KDSS valve. The rest of the truck had minimal rust for a Mid-Atlantic vehicle, but the valve looked like a cannon from a shipwreck.

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I was prepared for the worst, but a dental pick, some Kroil and a few sharp taps before inserting the hex driver managed to loosen both up. I backed them out a turn each, cleaned the threads and slathered the valve body in axle grease. I will clean them up and apply some LPS3. I'll probably give them a turn every few thousand miles. This major service concern has been ticked off my list and I can now consider a suspension lift.
 
This week I started going over my new to me '09. First up was the KDSS valve. The rest of the truck had minimal rust for a Mid-Atlantic vehicle, but the valve looked like a cannon from a shipwreck.

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I was prepared for the worst, but a dental pick, some Kroil and a few sharp taps before inserting the hex driver managed to loosen both up. I backed them out a turn each, cleaned the threads and slathered the valve body in axle grease. I will clean them up and apply some LPS3. I'll probably give them a turn every few thousand miles. This major service concern has been ticked off my list and I can now consider a suspension lift.

Wow.
Congrats...bc that is one knarly-lookin KDSS unit. :oops:
 
Hmm... I wonder if that is something to cover with waterproof grease to avoid that from happening?
 
Hmm... I wonder if that is something to cover with waterproof grease to avoid that from happening?

Many threads strongly recommending that. Yes. Do.
 
Many threads strongly recommending that. Yes. Do.

I think that might have been sarcasm. I know we don't see it around here much, so it is hard to recognize, but it does show itself on occasion. 😁
 
Great tip on the double sided tape! I hope to get my stage 2 on this weekend. What’s the consensus on bolts...dry, loctite, anti seize?
Do what you feel is best, loctite might not be a bad idea. I had one come loose and lost it because i didn’t recheck them after the initial install. @Taco2Cruiser, who works at Budbuilt, was able to sell me a replacement hardware kit, bolts /bits.
 
I think that might have been sarcasm. I know we don't see it around here much, so it is hard to recognize, but it does show itself on occasion. 😁

I was hoping that too...but it was a newish member...
 
What exactly did you do?

Amazon product ASIN B006VB8JTQ
I've actually used a couple different kits but this one works the best. Some of them use a power drill but I don't like spinning sandpaper that close to my paint and it's easily done by hand.
Basically you tape off the headlight, then wet sand with a 1000grit disc then wet sand with a 3000 grit disc then dry it off and clean it. Then you wipe the lens really smoothly with the included wet wipes and the solution on the wipes hardens into a clear coating that makes the headlight look basically new. One of the cheapest, most visible things you can do if your headlights are yellowed or foggy. (And no, I'm not affiliated with 3M or Amazon at all)
 
I was actually looking at that the other day on Amazon. Your before/after proves it'll do the job
 
I was actually looking at that the other day on Amazon. Your before/after proves it'll do the job

Yeah you'll be surprised how good they look afterwards. Especially if they start out really bad. Just sand really thoroughly then wipe slow and smooth to keep the bubbles down and they'll look awesome. Only have to dry for about an hour before you can touch them or drive around safely
 
Yeah you'll be surprised how good they look afterwards. Especially if they start out really bad. Just sand really thoroughly then wipe slow and smooth to keep the bubbles down and they'll look awesome. Only have to dry for about an hour before you can touch them or drive around safely

Does it come with adapter to attach it to a power tool?
I like to be lazy where I can lol.
 
Does it come with adapter to attach it to a power tool?
I like to be lazy where I can lol.

This kit doesn't come with it because I don't like spinning sand paper near my paint and it's pretty easy by hand.. But 3M makes a kit that has the mandrels to put in a power drill if you want them.
 
This kit doesn't come with it because I don't like spinning sand paper near my paint and it's pretty easy by hand.. But 3M makes a kit that has the mandrels to put in a power drill if you want them.

I agree with you on sanding with power tool near paint... but the headlight is big enough IMO to use it and then deal with the edges by hand
 
@Recon Aircrew - I use the Metaltech sliders on my 100 and they hold up very nicely to rocks and trees. It looks like you went with a powdercoat over traditional paint?
 
The MT sliders come powder coated. They also cost an absolute fortune to ship! $455 was the quote I got to PA.

I was able to order a set but now considering waiting it out for some Bud builds.
 

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