If you only need it occasionally why not have someone fab a removable winch mount that fits into the trailer receiver? The trailer hitch can pull an 8100# trailer, no reason it couldn’t hold you in a descent.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (28 Viewers)
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Two issues that then need to be solved with removable winches:
1) where do you safely store a 100+ lbs of winch and mount while also making it easy to get to when you’re stuck. And we need to keep in mind that when you're stuck, you’re probably in deep mud or snow or on an extreme angle that will make it hard to walk around. Could you image fighting a 100 lbs ball of metal out of the back of your 200 when it is nose down on a 40° angle?
2) you absolutely destroy your departure angle, and with the statements earlier about needing a winch when you’re not on clean flat ground, you may not be able to even get it mounted.
I’ll never forget the time I saw a F-150 get stuck in the mud. Then watched this guy for 30 minutes try and get this winch out he back of his truck, then trudge trough the mud, and fight more to get it installed but failed, because the receiver was packed with mud and under water.
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Sounds like a lovely way to get a herniated disk on the trail. Potental trail injuries are something to be avoided at all cost. Not being able to walk because your spine busted out trying to hook up a winch to your hitch sounds awful.
Awesome test, busted engine mounts again. Rubber part keeps giving up.
Markuson
SILVER Star
In the example I used (drop off on Steel Bender), you would literally drop and then SMASH the horribly protruding winch.
And ya, it could hold it like you say, but it would mean you have the worst departure angle ever...in a situation where you need the best.
Markuson
SILVER Star
/\ THIS /\
Solid motor mounts. The rubber ones can/do fail and can allow forma cracked oil pan.
@Markuson, I use a 12" drop hitch with my trailer, in order to get the ball low enough. They're reversible though - you can flip it up and get a bunch of lift on the shank. If I shortened mine (cut down the 2" receiver length and drilled a new hole for the receiver pin) I can imagine only having about 3-4" of protrusion right at the receiver hitch, with the winch mounted well above the bumper (at least 8", maybe more). So yes, it might scrape, but not like having a winch tray sitting at bumper height.
I would imagine installing something like this before a trip, not during the outing.
I'm not trying to knock the rear winch, @Taco2Cruiser. Depending on your wheeling style you may very well use it regularly. I'm just thinking about how to get similar utility without giving up the receiver and ability to hook up a trailer.
Tell me more please!, OEM motor mounts never last longer then 3 months for me.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I’m sure that’s true. But for me, it would have helped in three spots in the last year—had I been alone or without help. The rear W would make wheeling alone a much more reassuring practice. I wheel alone a lot...so for me, I’d love it.
Would it get used constantly? Nope. But it would mean I would TRY stuff ALONE that I might wisely have to avoid without it....just like my front winch.
There are descents where you get halfway down...and realize it was a mistake and need to back up and out. If alone and with a front winch only...that’s a problem. So...it means you attempt those obstacles less. With the rear though...you go for it.
RET2
SILVER Star
If I would need a rear winch I probably shouldn't be going there is my train of thought. Guess I'm getting old
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Who ever said there isn’t still going to be a rear hitch for towing?
Markuson
SILVER Star
Ya, but the “I really shouldn’t go there” calculation changes with the addition of a rear winch...just like it does with a front winch.
I could have done the final crazy drop on Steel Bender without a spotter if I were alone and had to get down...because I could have anchored the left rear and been able to be sure I wouldn’t roll over to the right and down when my left rear end was hanging high and dry, about to roll to the right.
Sometimes when wheeling alone, you get into spots you either attempt, or spend a fortune to get help. One rescue event like that could pay for the winch.
I like the idea of reversing the hitch for high clearance use. Just note that this likely will cause interference to using the tailgate though.
Just to add to the brainstorming...
Wonder if there is an elegant way to mount a single winch at the front, such that it can also be routed to be used at the rear?
I've seen PTO style winches on tube frame buggies that are mounted midships, to be used at the front or rear. Though they have way more access to get at and route the lines.
RET2
SILVER Star
There is a way for that scenario to work but it would require at least 2 (or more) snatch blocks and addittonal tree saver type of straps.
Markuson
SILVER Star
That’s something i’ve Always thought about—redirecting a winch line rearward
But... In my mind, the trouble with that comes because of three things:
1-Most logical redirect is under and toward the back...but try routing a winch line under and back when stuck in mud or hung on a ledge.
2-Tendency to turn your vehicle during a critical pull like back up A ledge Where if it suddenly starts pulling your front end around, you could roll down on the ledge...bad.
3-The amount of leverage you could create on any arm and it’s anchor point would be massive… So that any pulley system that extended out and under or up and over would create a massive strain on whatever connected the arm to the frame. 12,000 pounds at the winch line would turn into many times that at the anchor point .
That’s why I think a rear winch is worth the trouble before trying something like re-directing the front winch line backward.
What say you, engineers?
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RET2
SILVER Star
To each his own I say, all the while hoping my words don't come back to haunt me 
As with most things, it comes down to a cost/benefit eval in your projected usage.
Couple of points to add:
1) I'd mount a rear receiver winch before doing something hairy
2) I've seen one dude who bolted a 2" "receiver" to his drawers or truck bed to securely store the winch. Pretty smart idea if one goes this route.
3) 100# is probably about right, including the winch mount p on plate. The HF 12k is 85# shipping weight, so ~ 80# bare, or 90# with mount.
4) You can cut 15-17 pounds from that 100# weight by putting synthetic.
5) For either approach, we could probably get away with a much smaller winch than we think (i.e., 1.5x actual GVW). I read recently of an Aussie who did dozens if not over 100 winch recoveries, but used a line load gauge to measure the force. IIRC, 99% were 3k or under. Makes sense from a physics standpoint since the ground is carrying the majority of the vehicle's weight, even on a steep slope. Would have big impact on weight, power draw, power cables cost and weight.
I hope that contributes to the discussion. As I said, it all depends on you and your use case (e.g., frequency wheeling, how hard you push, local conditions, discretionary income, spousal constraints). IH8MUD is pretty cool about recognizing that the answer depends on the inputs!
DN
P.S. Cut through the frame - holy commitment, Batman! Most folks are nervous about drilling holes for snorkels (-:
Couple of points to add:
1) I'd mount a rear receiver winch before doing something hairy
2) I've seen one dude who bolted a 2" "receiver" to his drawers or truck bed to securely store the winch. Pretty smart idea if one goes this route.
3) 100# is probably about right, including the winch mount p on plate. The HF 12k is 85# shipping weight, so ~ 80# bare, or 90# with mount.
4) You can cut 15-17 pounds from that 100# weight by putting synthetic.
5) For either approach, we could probably get away with a much smaller winch than we think (i.e., 1.5x actual GVW). I read recently of an Aussie who did dozens if not over 100 winch recoveries, but used a line load gauge to measure the force. IIRC, 99% were 3k or under. Makes sense from a physics standpoint since the ground is carrying the majority of the vehicle's weight, even on a steep slope. Would have big impact on weight, power draw, power cables cost and weight.
I hope that contributes to the discussion. As I said, it all depends on you and your use case (e.g., frequency wheeling, how hard you push, local conditions, discretionary income, spousal constraints). IH8MUD is pretty cool about recognizing that the answer depends on the inputs!
DN
P.S. Cut through the frame - holy commitment, Batman! Most folks are nervous about drilling holes for snorkels (-:
