What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

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Time to disown son, or let him go "mudding" in a $500 corolla
My first mudder was an ‘82 240 GL. Learned so much about car control in that Swedish brick 😂
 
My first mudder was an ‘82 240 GL. Learned so much about car control in that Swedish brick 😂
I did some pretty serious offroading in my '77 Oldsmobile before I ever got a 4x4. Also had a lot of dirt time in a 760 with a B230FT and un-capped wastegate (aka boost set to infinity). Fun volvo fact: a luchbox locker for a jeep D30 also fits in the rear axle of the 200 and 700 series bricks! :steer:
 
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4.88 gears and rear locker install.
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New starter on my 2013 LX w/ 199K for preventative maintenance. Technically I didn't do it but the Lexus dealer did. $1200 total which seemed fair seeing how involved of a job it is.

WOW what a difference in just sound starting it up. Not sure if the old one was going out but I can definitely tell there's a new one in there.

Much more piece of mind now.
 
AHC delete?

What was the cost if you don't mind me asking. How are you liking the ride?
 
AHC delete?

What was the cost if you don't mind me asking. How are you liking the ride?
Yes, AHC delete. I also had to have some other work done. New lower control arms in the front as well as the Dobinson billet uppers. My lower cam bolts were seized so we had to cut the lower control arms off. Also redid the rear upper and lower control arms with Dobinsons adjustable. Replaced all the sway bar end links. Cost was more than I care to admit (roughly $8,600 with parts and labor), but love the ride so far. Taking some getting used to.
 
Yes, AHC delete. I also had to have some other work done. New lower control arms in the front as well as the Dobinson billet uppers. My lower cam bolts were seized so we had to cut the lower control arms off. Also redid the rear upper and lower control arms with Dobinsons adjustable. Replaced all the sway bar end links. Cost was more than I care to admit (roughly $8,600 with parts and labor), but love the ride so far. Taking some getting used to.
Do you know how much of that $8600 was labor for a shop to remove AHC?
 
Yeah, that in itself seems like a bunch of work with all the parts/pumps/lines/etc....
 
Rotated tires for the first time on my new to me LC. I decided to torque lug nuts to spec, so I bought a 1/2” drive torque wrench. This was only the second in my life I’ve ever used a torque wrench (the first time was last week while changing my oil).

I don’t know why, but torquing something with a torque wrench is extremely satisfying. Slowing wrenching on it until you feel that “click” that lets you know you applied EXACTLY the desired amount of torque. Feeling the click just makes me happy for some reason. I know…I must be weird…:) But apparently I love torque wrenches.
 
Rotated tires for the first time on my new to me LC. I decided to torque lug nuts to spec, so I bought a 1/2” drive torque wrench. This was only the second in my life I’ve ever used a torque wrench (the first time was last week while changing my oil).

I don’t know why, but torquing something with a torque wrench is extremely satisfying. Slowing wrenching on it until you feel that “click” that lets you know you applied EXACTLY the desired amount of torque. Feeling the click just makes me happy for some reason. I know…I must be weird…:) But apparently I love torque wrenches.

Wait until you have five! Technically only three of mine are for the cruiser, but they start multiplying once you realize their utility.

Also for anyone that doesn't already know.. for most "click" type wrenches (except split-beam) it is important to back off the torque indication setting between uses. The spring staying compressed long-term can impact calibration.
 
Wait until you have five! Technically only three of mine are for the cruiser, but they start multiplying once you realize their utility.

Also for anyone that doesn't already know.. for most "click" type wrenches (except split-beam) it is important to back off the torque indication setting between uses. The spring staying compressed long-term can impact calibration.
(Digital FTW!)
 
(Digital FTW!)

Eventually yes. I’m not getting paid for my wrenching time and started collecting these before digital was a thing. They still calibrate well so that investment isn’t the top of the list yet..

But yeah, for others just starting the investment.. strongly consider digital.
 
Rotated tires for the first time on my new to me LC. I decided to torque lug nuts to spec, so I bought a 1/2” drive torque wrench. This was only the second in my life I’ve ever used a torque wrench (the first time was last week while changing my oil).

I don’t know why, but torquing something with a torque wrench is extremely satisfying. Slowing wrenching on it until you feel that “click” that lets you know you applied EXACTLY the desired amount of torque. Feeling the click just makes me happy for some reason. I know…I must be weird…:) But apparently I love torque wrenches.

I like using the big boy torque wrench I initially purchased for the 304 ft-lb 1fz-fe crank bolt. It's like a giant breaker bar and torque wrench in one, with a 3/4" drive head. You're about to give yourself a hernia by the time you hear the click. Also good in a medieval melee or pitched battle :hillbilly:
 
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