What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (45 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Finally (!) finished soundproofing the lower half of the LC.

Before

View attachment 1047593

After (below) - Decided to keep the vapor barrier intact and only added a few strips of Dynamat to the outer skin and some BAM around the speaker edges. I noticed that there was some dust around the edges of the door. Looks like the plate for the speaker is about 1/4" too thick and causes a gap between the door panel and metal. No big deal though since I used the BAM to fill the gap. All in all, something this simple just "tightened" up the sound (e.g. fewer unwanted noises).

View attachment 1047601


I have always thought about doing something like this but I can never tell whether it's going to make a huge diference, any input? My LC is stock but might be getting some louder tires soon (hence the inquiry). Also, how much Dynamat did you end up using for all 4 doors? Any other areas where you would recommend applying it (without taking the entire interior apart)?

Looks good man, thanks!
 
Finally (!) finished soundproofing the lower half of the LC.

Before

View attachment 1047593

After (below) - Decided to keep the vapor barrier intact and only added a few strips of Dynamat to the outer skin and some BAM around the speaker edges. I noticed that there was some dust around the edges of the door. Looks like the plate for the speaker is about 1/4" too thick and causes a gap between the door panel and metal. No big deal though since I used the BAM to fill the gap. All in all, something this simple just "tightened" up the sound (e.g. fewer unwanted noises).

View attachment 1047601

Looks great!

What model # Focal did you go with? Did you use one of their component sets up front?

I just bought a MegaPack of Dynamat Xtreme (72 sq ft) and was thinking about also buying their "Step 2" product (Dynaliner) which is a thin adhesive-backed foam for doors, floors, etc. It might be a good alternative to the factory vapor barrier, while helping to eliminate rattles and tighten up the fitment of the door panel to the metal doorskin....

It comes in 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses so one of those is sure to be a nice snug fit. It's WAY cheaper than the Dynamat Xtreme so I don't think I'll feel guilty about buying some just to try out in different places. I want to make the interior of my LC REAAAAAALLY QUIET, and kill all the weird little rattles and squeaks that have developed over the last 14 years. :)

-G
 
I have always thought about doing something like this but I can never tell whether it's going to make a huge diference, any input? My LC is stock but might be getting some louder tires soon (hence the inquiry). Also, how much Dynamat did you end up using for all 4 doors? Any other areas where you would recommend applying it (without taking the entire interior apart)?

Looks good man, thanks!

Thanks @spaber05 - I'd at least recommend the following areas:
  • Front doors
  • Back doors
  • Wheel wells
  • Center console
  • Front foot wells
I used a little less than 2 sheets - one for each rear door. I'd say at least 2 sheets for the front doors - maybe part of a third to cover the larger area.

I first started soundproofing the interior a couple years ago. I pulled out all the interior and put down Dynamat Extreme and covered that with 1/8" Dynaliner on all the floor surfaces. In my experience, this was definitely overkill. But I got the stuff for a steep discount and spread out the install over quite a bit of time.

The major benefit to soundproofing isn't that it makes the interior quiet (i.e. an overall decrease in decibels) as much as it prevents or quiets unwanted noises (road noise) and enables a better listening experience.
 
Looks great!

What model # Focal did you go with? Did you use one of their component sets up front?

I just bought a MegaPack of Dynamat Xtreme (72 sq ft) and was thinking about also buying their "Step 2" product (Dynaliner) which is a thin adhesive-backed foam for doors, floors, etc. It might be a good alternative to the factory vapor barrier, while helping to eliminate rattles and tighten up the fitment of the door panel to the metal doorskin....

It comes in 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses so one of those is sure to be a nice snug fit. It's WAY cheaper than the Dynamat Xtreme so I don't think I'll feel guilty about buying some just to try out in different places. I want to make the interior of my LC REAAAAAALLY QUIET, and kill all the weird little rattles and squeaks that have developed over the last 14 years. :)

-G

The front doors have component K2 Power 165 KRs installed and the rear doors have Access 165s installed. I still need to get a sub in the rear and am probably going to get a JL Audio set up behind the second row seats.

While I went "all in" on using both Dynamat products (Extreme + Dynaliner), it was definitely overkill. There are other products that accomplish the same thing - if not better - for less $ (Sound Deadener Showdown). I do like the "fit and finish" of Dynaliner though and if I were to choose just one of their products to use, that would be it.

HTH
 
The front doors have component K2 Power 165 KRs installed and the rear doors have Access 165s installed. I still need to get a sub in the rear and am probably going to get a JL Audio set up behind the second row seats.

While I went "all in" on using both Dynamat products (Extreme + Dynaliner), it was definitely overkill. There are other products that accomplish the same thing - if not better - for less $ (Sound Deadener Showdown). I do like the "fit and finish" of Dynaliner though and if I were to choose just one of their products to use, that would be it.

HTH


Based on your experience with the door panels... how thick of a Dynaliner would fit without preventing the panel from going back on? 1/8"...1/4"....1/2"???

Thanks!

-G
 
I'd say it would fit at least 1/4" where it's a tight fit and in other places you could fit a 1/2", but not sure there's much more "bang for the buck" at that size.

I replaced the vapor barrier on the front doors with BAM and it's about 3/8" and is a very tight fit. Plus, it's pretty heavy but makes for a nice solid feeling door shut. <ha>
 
Really screwed the pooch this time. Knew I had an issue with a pulley but decided I'd drive it till it got bad. Well... things got bad.

Driving down Ptree Rd the loud noise from my engine suddenly went away and my battery light came on. Ok, so no alt means the whole belt must've gone. Pulling into a parking lot my power steering was gone too, that's no bueno. At this point I know I've let it go too far. I popped the hood only to confirm my suspicion. The whole serpentine belt was shredded and tangled into pulleys. Whatever, I'll deal with this after lunch. So after lunch we went back to the ol cruiza, pulled the mangled belt off, shut off all auxiliary things and fired her up in hopes of limping back to a local lot where I could work on her.

Here comes the interesting, funny, stupid part of the story. So as I am driving a very unhappy cruiser out of this lot I notice the engine start to sputter. s***. Losing compression and trying to get out of this damn parking lot. I decide it'd be better to simply shut her off to avoid further damage. I was with 4 other people, thank god. So I threw her in neutral, tell the lady with us that she's steering this pig, and we get to pushing her down Ptree. Thankfully some kind people passing by helped push for about a qtr mile. Great, now I'm a quarter mile the opposite direction I needed to go. At this point my buddy goes to get his truck so we can tow the cruiser back down Ptree a couple miles to his place. Ghetto? Yeah, but this is Atlanta, who's really going to tell us that we look ghetto? So I hooked up a tow strap to the front bumper and he tows me about 2 miles back to his lot where my truck now sits, as I am in Athens.

Really hoping it won't be a tough fix. I know it's the top most pulley of the serp belt, so hopefully the most difficult part is going to be rethreading the belt into place.

TL;DR I didn't repair my car and let the serp belt snap. Had to push it down Peachtree and tow it back the other way behind somebody's truck.
 
That's great info. I may be taking the carpet out to give it a good scrub this summer and while I have that out I was thinking about putting in some Dynamat as well. I figured that the doors would be the easiest to access but center console and foot wells being worth the time as well.

Is it just a waste of time to bother with the entire cargo area? I figure if the carpet is off for the rear wheel wells it might make sense, but I can't imagine that a lot of road noise carries up to the front from back there.
 
@spaber05 - I did the entire cargo area and noticed improvement. But not sure how much since so much of the noise comes from the wheel wells. I'd suggest doing those first, and maybe some select places on the outer skin. Then, with everything still out, go for a drive before deciding to do the cargo area.
 
Replaced passenger side rusted out dt header. Will possibly do the driver side tomorrow.
 
That's great info. I may be taking the carpet out to give it a good scrub this summer and while I have that out I was thinking about putting in some Dynamat as well. I figured that the doors would be the easiest to access but center console and foot wells being worth the time as well.

Is it just a waste of time to bother with the entire cargo area? I figure if the carpet is off for the rear wheel wells it might make sense, but I can't imagine that a lot of road noise carries up to the front from back there.

The hard part is that you end up removing a lot of interior trim to get at the parts you want to treat. It's hard to stop saying "Might As Well" once you are that far along.....wheeltubs escalates to complete floors, and maybe the roof too!!

That's how I predict mine will go, anyway. Might as well pull all the seats and maybe install all new OEM carpet too and make everything quiet and super-fresh too. :)

-G
 
How big of a difference did this make for you?

Sorry I missed this. The main difference I noticed after doing the doors alone was how much better my stock stereo sounded. Then after doing my cargo area, things got much quieter and made me decide to keep my stock stereo for a while longer. I also stuck on some rattle trap on the outside of the factory sub enclosure. The ride was noticeably quieter, but made what were minor cabin rattles louder. I'm hunting them down and shutting them up little by little. Was it worth it? To me it was. I still need to do the floors under the first and second rows.
 
For the interior rattles that you've found... What was the culprit? I imagine that it's panel-to-panel rubbing of interior plastics, but I suppose it could just be random loose fasteners too.

I've got a few odd noises that I will eventually track down. I'm planning to pull the complete interior out so if all my noises disappear after that I guess I will know that it was a panel fitment issue somewhere.

-G
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom