What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (53 Viewers)

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I don't think the transponder chip is removable. I haven't checked, but I can take mine apart this week and post pictures if it is. I would hold off on cutting your key open. If yours works wait, I can take mine apart (it's a spare) and let you know if that part is removable. Taking the internals apart exposes the circuitry and makes everything a little loose inside.

It worked for me, just saying...
 
put a dual swing out BIOR rear bumper on, TJM shocks, and Slee Rear springs...

Edit: selling the Slee rear springs and replacing them for 863's.....
 
It may be, I have never tried. I always thought that little "chip" was moulded into the inner key workings.

It worked for me but like I said earlier in this thread it was a hairy situation for sure. That case that looks like it should stay together does need to be cracked apart. Mine just snapped back together without an issue though. I really recommend changing the battery while in there too, I dread the day that I have to set up that flip key spring again...
 
Removed.
 
Played in the sand.

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Had an ARB front locker installed at Slee.
 
Using the same factory switch as the rear locker???

Switch is OEM 80-Series. Locks RR (Rears) first, then FF RR (Fronts and Rears).
 
Did your re-gear as well? Where did slee mount the switch to turn the arb compressor on?

Are you still trying to figure out what to do with your front end? Thought you'd be back up and running already!
 
Did your re-gear as well? Where did slee mount the switch to turn the arb compressor on?

I didn't regear. I'm staying with 285/75/16's. To turn on the compressor, you just park and turn the switch. The compressor clicks on just by turning the rear (still factory electric) locker on. As long as you're not trying to air up while you're driving, it seems to work fine. I still have 2 switch blanks left now. I'm thinking caltrops and a light bar.
 
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Doesn't that defeat the purpose of using the compressor for anything else? Accessories etc?
 
I didn't regear. I'm staying with 285/75/16's. To turn on the compressor, you just park and turn the switch. The compressor clicks on just by turning the rear (still factory electric) locker on. As long as you're not trying to air up while you're driving, it seems to work fine. I still have 2 switch blanks left now. I'm thinking caltrops and a light bar.

Why do you have to park?
 
What kind of air accessories are you using while driving, besides your locker?
 
What kind of air accessories are you using while not parked, besides your locker?

Disregard, I see you where you said the compressor is wired to kick on when you engage the factory rear.

And, I've seen bluecruiser air up his tires without even slowing down. ;)
 
Just for clarification, we hook the compressor on the same switch. So as soon as you turn on the rear locker, the compressor comes on. The only reason we suggest waiting (not necessarily park) before moving is the very first time if the compressor tank was empty, you want it to have full pressure to engage the locker. If you try to do this under load, there is a very small chance that the locker will try to partially engage if it does not have full pressure.

In this case, there is a rear e-locker, so if you engaged the rear, the compressor would be running until it builds pressure and you can then engage the front while driving, no issue.

As for airing up etc, doesn't really matter. You are going to be stationary, so you just have the rear locker on when airing up. No big deal.
 

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