What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (46 Viewers)

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Oakleyguy said:
The front did have a lot of debris, hair, etc on it. I’d say 20%-ish blockage.

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That's pretty much every radiator that I see come out of these vehicles. I'm confident that this explains a lot of the "[insert aftermarket Brand X] radiator runs so much cooler than OEM" posts that I see.

IMO these radiators should be pulled for cleaning every five years or so, fwiw. /soapbox
 
Well, for starters, I bought it from my next door neighbor. I just picked up a 1998 LX470 from my neighbor. I put about 250 miles on it over the weekend. Took it to the carwash and found a couple of disclosed leaks - one in the sunroof and one on the roof at the rear hatch. I pulled the center brake light and removed the old gasket remnants. I reapplied the center brake light assembly sans gasket (couldn't source one... anyone know where to get one)? I ultimately used a bunch of flowable silicone in place of a gasket. As for the sunroof leak, it looks like a previous owner sealed the whole thing shut with some type of silicone... so, for the time being I reapplied with the remainder of the tube of flowable silicone from the center brake light project. I tried to chase the cause of an inoperable steering wheel adjustment system (to no avail), and identified what I think will likely be my next few projects in no particular order:

1) Remove factory roof rack
2) Remove factory rails/steps
3) Source some wheels that are in better condition
4) LED Reverse light bulbs
5) Source a new steering wheel or decent steering wheel cover
6) Source a new transmission handle/knob or identify cover solution.
7) Replace seat covers piece-by-piece.
8) Install HAM radio system
9) Get sunroof back into an operable condition'
10) Identify parasitic draw (battery dies in about three days of no use)
 
robbyfj62 said:
Well, for starters, I bought it from my next door neighbor. I just picked up a 1998 LX470 from my neighbor. I put about 250 miles on it over the weekend. Took it to the carwash and found a couple of disclosed leaks - one in the sunroof and one on the roof at the rear hatch. I pulled the center brake light and removed the old gasket remnants. I reapplied the center brake light assembly sans gasket (couldn't source one... anyone know where to get one)? I ultimately used a bunch of flowable silicone in place of a gasket. As for the sunroof leak, it looks like a previous owner sealed the whole thing shut with some type of silicone... so, for the time being I reapplied with the remainder of the tube of flowable silicone from the center brake light project. I tried to chase the cause of an inoperable steering wheel adjustment system (to no avail), and identified what I think will likely be my next few projects in no particular order:

1) Remove factory roof rack
2) Remove factory rails/steps
3) Source some wheels that are in better condition
4) LED Reverse light bulbs
5) Source a new steering wheel or decent steering wheel cover
6) Source a new transmission handle/knob or identify cover solution.
7) Replace seat covers piece-by-piece.
8) Install HAM radio system
9) Get sunroof back into an operable condition'
10) Identify parasitic draw (battery dies in about three days of no use)
Click to expand...
For #10 on your list, start with making sure the headlights are in the OFF position, and not AUTO when truck is off.
 
89BIGBLUE said:
For #10 on your list, start with making sure the headlights are in the OFF position, and not AUTO when truck is off.
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Does this drain the battery if the switch is in Auto? I leave mine in Auto all the time and haven't had any issues...
 
mokrunka said:
Does this drain the battery if the switch is in Auto? I leave mine in Auto all the time and haven't had any issues...
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If you park it for a week or so without running it, it can drain down battery voltage if left on auto in my experience.
There’s a blurb abut it in the owners manual.
I think the photo cell keeps working and drawing power while set to Auto.
 
89BIGBLUE said:
If you park it for a week or so without running it, it can drain down battery voltage if left on auto in my experience.
There’s a blurb abut it in the owners manual.
I think the photo cell keeps working and drawing power while set to Auto.
Click to expand...
I did not know about this… headlight switch in auto can drain your battery…

But THERE IT IS.. right in the owners manual.

IMG_2884.webp


Thanks for the info.
 
robbyfj62 said:
Well, for starters, I bought it from my next door neighbor. I just picked up a 1998 LX470 from my neighbor. I put about 250 miles on it over the weekend. Took it to the carwash and found a couple of disclosed leaks - one in the sunroof and one on the roof at the rear hatch. I pulled the center brake light and removed the old gasket remnants. I reapplied the center brake light assembly sans gasket (couldn't source one... anyone know where to get one)? I ultimately used a bunch of flowable silicone in place of a gasket. As for the sunroof leak, it looks like a previous owner sealed the whole thing shut with some type of silicone... so, for the time being I reapplied with the remainder of the tube of flowable silicone from the center brake light project. I tried to chase the cause of an inoperable steering wheel adjustment system (to no avail), and identified what I think will likely be my next few projects in no particular order:

1) Remove factory roof rack
2) Remove factory rails/steps
3) Source some wheels that are in better condition
4) LED Reverse light bulbs
5) Source a new steering wheel or decent steering wheel cover
6) Source a new transmission handle/knob or identify cover solution.
7) Replace seat covers piece-by-piece.
8) Install HAM radio system
9) Get sunroof back into an operable condition'
10) Identify parasitic draw (battery dies in about three days of no use)
Click to expand...
Rear hatch could be the third brake light or one of two seals 67881-60111 or 68281-60020. For me it was 98% third brake light which I removed, cleaned up with a magic eraser with shots of goo gone and used windo-weld to reinstall. You should have someone run a garden hose over the hatch and you should inspect for leaks in the trunk. If that passes, have them hose the third brake light, which can let in a LOT of water if the inferior OEM foam splits.
 
Added the 2" Ironman nitro gas lift and 285/75r18 BFG KO3s. My 100% stock suspension was clanking and squeaking around at 130k so figured I'd do what I always wanted to do and get it looking a little more level and a bit taller. I had a non lifted 2000 model that I put 285/75r16s on with a torsion bar lift. Maybe should have gone that route to keep the stock suspension ride but honestly the ride is just slightly tighter and I feel like it will settle in over time. My current one most definitely looks like a different truck altogether with the lift and 285s. Gotta hike up the leg a bit to get in but it looks great.

IMG_6602.webp


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IMG_6605.webp
 
bluejack said:
Added the 2" Ironman nitro gas lift and 285/75r18 BFG KO3s. My 100% stock suspension was clanking and squeaking around at 130k so figured I'd do what I always wanted to do and get it looking a little more level and a bit taller. I had a non lifted 2000 model that I put 285/75r16s on with a torsion bar lift. Maybe should have gone that route to keep the stock suspension ride but honestly the ride is just slightly tighter and I feel like it will settle in over time. My current one most definitely looks like a different truck altogether with the lift and 285s. Gotta hike up the leg a bit to get in but it looks great.

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35s look good on the 100!
 
LC got a new set of shoes today. Been needing new ones for a minute… (Nitto Ridge Grapplers LT275/70R18). Love these tires Got a set on my 4Runner and they have been great!

Also just got the rest of my suspension and brake parts. Gonna take me a few weekends to get the changes and updates all done, but looking forward to the challenge.


IMG_1246.webp
 
I guess my AHC fluid has been low since I bought it in February (8k miles ago). I added like 1/3 of the container to top it off and the truck drives so much better. It’s a completely different vehicle lol.

I can’t even imagine what the ride would be like if I replaced the rear shocks and rear control arms that are corroded. Let alone the old globes. I’m kind of blown away at the ride quality.
 
Replaced my driver's side fender liner, mine was cracked. Sort of annoying that it sits behind the plastic trim on the LX that is affixed with adhesive, but I managed to get it out and get the new one in with all new clips. Surprising how much better it looks now that it's all tidy!
 
LC Lurker said:
I guess my AHC fluid has been low since I bought it in February (8k miles ago). I added like 1/3 of the container to top it off and the truck drives so much better. It’s a completely different vehicle lol.

I can’t even imagine what the ride would be like if I replaced the rear shocks and rear control arms that are corroded. Let alone the old globes. I’m kind of blown away at the ride quality.
Click to expand...

Unless your rear suspension hydraulic rams are physically damaged or leaking, it’s not likely they need to be replaced.

AHC “shocks” are hydraulic cylinders and have an extremely long life expectancy… unlike traditional shock absorbers, Active Height Control (AHC) system uses electronically controlled valuing actuators to vary the hydraulic fluid flow into and out of the “ shocks”. You can even lower for loading, have a neutral position for normal driving, and a high setting for increased ground clearance during off-roading. All by the touch of a button.
Now, the bushings in the rear control arms are a different story… Toyota does not offer these bushings for sale separately. You can purchase aftermarket bushings and press them in, or replace all four rear control arms. The OEM Toyota bushings are of a much higher quality rubber with proper durometer rating.

Replacing the globes is definitely on the top of the list in order to restore a factory fresh ride quality. Globes are nitrogen charged, and the nitrogen pressure will diminish with age… There’s no way around that. Replacing the globes will give you fresh suspension quality.

In order to provide insight and how to get the most bang for the buck, you should read through this thread, and there are many others like it on this forum.

LndXrsr

Thread 'The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place'

I initially put this in the Definitive list of AHC maintenance items thread, but at almost 800 posts long and growing, it's going to get buried and the thread itself is very unwieldy.

In an attempt to make as focused a summary as possible, I present "The ABCs of AHC." It's intended as a comprehensive, linear checklist for anyone who needs to get their AHC back into factory tune. Information gathered from as many sources as I could find on this forum; I take no credit for developing any of this, just bringing it all together as much as possible. Special shout outs to...
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Unrulykid said:
Unless your rear suspension hydraulic rams are physically damaged or leaking, it’s not likely they need to be replaced.

AHC “shocks” are hydraulic cylinders and have an extremely long life expectancy… unlike traditional shock absorbers, Active Height Control (AHC) system uses electronically controlled valuing actuators to vary the hydraulic fluid flow into and out of the “ shocks”. You can even lower for loading, have a neutral position for normal driving, and a high setting for increased ground clearance during off-roading. All by the touch of a button.
Now, the bushings in the rear control arms are a different story… Toyota does not offer these bushings for sale separately. You can purchase aftermarket bushings and press them in, or replace all four rear control arms. The OEM Toyota bushings are of a much higher quality rubber with proper durometer rating.

Replacing the globes is definitely on the top of the list in order to restore a factory fresh ride quality. Globes are nitrogen charged, and the nitrogen pressure will diminish with age… There’s no way around that. Replacing the globes will give you fresh suspension quality.

In order to provide insight and how to get the most bang for the buck, you should read through this thread, and there are many others like it on this forum.

LndXrsr

Thread 'The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place'

I initially put this in the Definitive list of AHC maintenance items thread, but at almost 800 posts long and growing, it's going to get buried and the thread itself is very unwieldy.

In an attempt to make as focused a summary as possible, I present "The ABCs of AHC." It's intended as a comprehensive, linear checklist for anyone who needs to get their AHC back into factory tune. Information gathered from as many sources as I could find on this forum; I take no credit for developing any of this, just bringing it all together as much as possible. Special shout outs to...
  • Like
  • Love
  • Wow
Click to expand...
Very informative. Thanks for sharing!
 
Re-pack front wheel bearings service coming up soon. I have collected all materials for this task, and was going over in my head what I might have forgotten… but I think I’ve got it all. Then I started thinking about the preventative maintenance inspections that I may not have done on my 2002 LX…

I have had this vehicle for five years and have completely gone through everything on the truck… But I have never checked propeller shaft bolts torque. Why? No idea. So that’s what I did today, and it surprised me that 2 of the front shaft bolts to differential were not loose, but not even close to being torqued properly… all of the other bolts were right on the money.

So if you’ve never done it, torque your propeller shaft bolts, and mark them… Because if they’re not marked, they’re not torqued.

Doesn’t take much, but a box end torque adapter is REQUIRED for the rear bolts at 78 foot pounds… you’ll spring a crows foot at that torque. The front bolts are only 59 foot pounds. And it doesn’t take very long with a helper to hold the brakes.
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New steering rack (new Toyota, not refurb)
IMG_6780.webp

New windshield done properly with all new Toyota bits/trim
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Added some Baja designs led with the built in switches to the lift gate. One white, one red
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