What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (96 Viewers)

[keerolee]

This happened. And the light on ”D” doesn’t work. That’s about 345k miles.

 

[SmoothLC]

^ The "D" light delete is my favorite mod.

 

[kbfj621989]

Thanks @212x100 for the inspiration and motivation.

I tried to save the gold electroplated badges but they made the rig look tired.

Replaced all the rear badges and polished and waxed the trunk. Made a bigger difference than I expected.

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[100d ua]

^ The "D" light delete is my favorite mod.

I would argue this haha. After 5 years I finally fixed mine. There was a brief moment where it randomly started working again and it was kinda nice.

 

[Trapper50cal]

I would argue this haha. After 5 years I finally fixed mine. There was a brief moment where it randomly started working again and it was kinda nice.

Too much glare during night driving

 

[100d ua]

Too much glare during night driving

Not sure what’s up with mine but the “D” light is half as bright as the other positions. Doesn’t bother me.

 

[FZJ105]

Finally getting around to replacing the front differential bushes after sitting on the parts for over a year

 

[GerLC100]

Not mine, no connection to that person, just posting for California Bay Area:

Check out this item on Nextdoor

$10000 — 2007 Toyota Landcruiser near the Los Gatos Main neighborhood in Los Gatos, CA. Find items in For Sale & Free on Nextdoor - all listings are local.

nextdoor.com

Could help out locally if needed.

 

[ranchero7]

Picked up this 100% rust free 2006. Drove it 900 miles back to Colorado and got 16-17mpg at 70-80mph. Pleased with that, but it won't last long. Now have to prep my FZJ80 for sale before I can touch this.

 

[mokrunka]

laaawd have mercy, CVs have been on my list for a while. I'm really dreading it. I've seen some YT videos where they just take the castle nut off the upper ball joint and drop the whole hub assembly down, giving access to the CV. Does that actually work in your experience?

Feels good to check the box on the list of some of the things that have been nagging me for months.

Have had intermittent weeping from my CVs for the last two years and put new bands on them last year, hoping that would fix it but last couple of months the grease was getting slung everywhere. I will keep the old ones as spares and use the re-boot kit from @cruiserpatch . Plus, two thumbs up on the seal tool he sells. Made the installation idiot proof.

Finally decided to do it yesterday and the first one on the left-hand side took four times as long as the one on the right, as I learned from my mistakes. So glad it’s done now.

That Ironman suspension I put on last year has a fatter shock body than the old AHC shock and the sway bar link and had a helluva time getting that first axle out and new one in. Ended up unbolting the lower bolt and was able to get the axle in and out much easier.

Did find both the upper ball joint boots torn so now I will be replacing those as soon as I get the parts.
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[mokrunka]

Needed a 1 banana job, so I picked up the 4 door sill weather stripping parts, as well as the rear door seals. The left driver side door seal was sagging and would occasionally get caught in the door frame when closing the door, so I just went ahead and did both sides. The door sills look much better than the old, weather worn and sun-beaten ones.

 

[99UnDaCuvaBrutha]

Sitting at 214K miles
Dealer installed:
- front reman. calipers (dirver side caliper was stuck)
- pads and rotors
- timing belt and water pump (previous owner said it was done 5k miles ago but no sticker to show for it)
- spark plugs
- fan clutch

 

[Hoserock]

laaawd have mercy, CVs have been on my list for a while. I'm really dreading it. I've seen some YT videos where they just take the castle nut off the upper ball joint and drop the whole hub assembly down, giving access to the CV. Does that actually work in your experience?

It's really not that bad depending on rust. Make sure you have a prybar and might as well get some new boots and grease for the upper joint. It's 3-4 Banana job, just time consuming. You'll be fine, are you replacing or rebooting CV's? Reboot is way more of a PAIN IN THE A#$

 

[Bisho]

laaawd have mercy, CVs have been on my list for a while. I'm really dreading it. I've seen some YT videos where they just take the castle nut off the upper ball joint and drop the whole hub assembly down, giving access to the CV. Does that actually work in your experience?

Yes, it works. It’s a bit of a puzzle to get the ends where they belong, but it definitely works.

 

[BIGG PAPA]

Yes, it works. It’s a bit of a puzzle to get the ends where they belong, but it definitely works.

Used this method a couple weekends ago and it worked well. It helps to have an extra set of hands when installing the new ones. Took about 3 hours total. Made a big difference in the drivability, no more "clunk" when shifting between P-R-D. For disassembly, with the drive flange/circlip still in place, you can use the UCA as a lever to remove the old CV's. A couple of brisk pulls and they dislodged easily. A bit daunting at first but not as difficult as I had anticipated. 250k on the original set.

 

[99UnDaCuvaBrutha]

Sitting at 214K miles
Dealer installed:
- front reman. calipers (dirver side caliper was stuck)
- pads and rotors
- timing belt and water pump (previous owner said it was done 5k miles ago but no sticker to show for it)
- spark plugs
- fan clutch

ran her thru the touchless car wash this morning

 

[mokrunka]

It's really not that bad depending on rust. Make sure you have a prybar and might as well get some new boots and grease for the upper joint. It's 3-4 Banana job, just time consuming. You'll be fine, are you replacing or rebooting CV's? Reboot is way more of a PAIN IN THE A#$

Thanks, yeah I'm just replacing. Not going to bother rebooting old CVs once I've committed to getting in there. Rebooting the upper ball joints you mean? had not considered that.

 

[mokrunka]

Used this method a couple weekends ago and it worked well. It helps to have an extra set of hands when installing the new ones. Took about 3 hours total. Made a big difference in the drivability, no more "clunk" when shifting between P-R-D. For disassembly, with the drive flange/circlip still in place, you can use the UCA as a lever to remove the old CV's. A couple of brisk pulls and they dislodged easily. A bit daunting at first but not as difficult as I had anticipated. 250k on the original set.

Thanks for that. I went ahead and picked them up and I'll try this either next weekend or the following, depending when the CVs show up.

Side question. Do I need to replace any fluid in the front diff after doing this? I don't have any leaks, so I'm assuming whatever seal is in place there can stay, or do folks normally replace those too (on the diff side)?

 

[Bisho]

Thanks for that. I went ahead and picked them up and I'll try this either next weekend or the following, depending when the CVs show up.

Side question. Do I need to replace any fluid in the front diff after doing this? I don't have any leaks, so I'm assuming whatever seal is in place there can stay, or do folks normally replace those too (on the diff side)?

If you jack up one side at a time you won’t lose any oil. It’s a good idea to have the diff seals available. Not a bad idea to replace them, but if you don’t have the seal, the chances of boogering it up go up exponentially.

 

[100d ua]

Think I narrowed down the god awful speaking noise in my front end to a bad lower ball joint which is super disappointing because I didn't replace it too long ago with a 555 one and it only got bad after a trip to the coast.