Yes upper ball joint, it's cheap easy and you're already in there. Hold on to a CV incase of catastrophe on the trail. Are you going with all new hub flanges? Might help with the "Clunk".
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (70 Viewers)
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Yes, again since you're already in there might as well do a full fluid change with all new seals if you want peace of mind. If you get new seals make sure you have a 90 degree pick, it will help pry them out if they are not seized or rent a seal puller. Just remember to add fluid AFTER everything is back together. I was tired and hungry and just made a mess everywhere. Plan for about 3-4 hours if you're doing both sides. Not hard just time consuming.
I love stock Cruisers.ran her thru the touchless car wash this morningView attachment 3900469
installed an isolator/aux battery and wired power behind the rear quarterpanel. Pleased that the qp fits back on decently with the mounting board behind it. soon will add a 1000w inverter with a powerstrip in the cupholder slot
I wired 1/0 under the passenger's side, secured to the factory running board studs. came up thru the grommet near rear wheel well. the cable channel is stuffed though so qp clips near the door aren't snug.
I wired 1/0 under the passenger's side, secured to the factory running board studs. came up thru the grommet near rear wheel well. the cable channel is stuffed though so qp clips near the door aren't snug.
I did the hub flanges already a few months ago. I've just been busy with work and life stuff and haven't had the motivation or time to do much tinkering. But you all have motivated me to get in there and knock out the CVs. I've also done the front diff bushings so my hope is that the clunk goes away once I do these CVs.
Cool, would the seals be these little guys?
And iirc the upper ball joint comes as a kit with the whole control arm - right? or did you buy a non-oem BJ and just put that in there?
I believe that's the one. It sits flush just inside the axel opening, I didn't redo the upper ball joints, just a reboot and grease with OEM parts. This was 3 years ago and no squeaks or issues. If its not 43410M its going to be 41336 D/E you'll be able to see it, it's metal on the outside with rubber in the inner ring. Do your best to avoid hitting/kinking the inner rubber ring with the axel if you plan to reuse the existing seal or if you get new ones. Plenty of YT tutorials on it.
BullElk
SILVER Star
Added 285/75/16 Prinx MT and window visors.
Mounted the Kaymar I got last fall finally and fabricated a license plate relocation bracket using a 70 series light assembly. Made a harness that runs off of the stock trailer plug into a detachable deutsch connector end for easy removal.
I had replaced the serpentine idler pulley about 2 months ago due to slight noises when idling the engine. The idler pulley had zero play, but spun freely.
Now I find similar bearing noise again at idle. And now the serpentine tensioner pulley is the culprit. It did not spin freely 2 months ago, but now it does.
So… next up on the ( thankfully) short list of things to do…
Now I find similar bearing noise again at idle. And now the serpentine tensioner pulley is the culprit. It did not spin freely 2 months ago, but now it does.
So… next up on the ( thankfully) short list of things to do…
So something I literally just learned a few minutes ago is that if you switch the headlight setting to “off” the “D” light gets brighter and once you turn it to on or daytime driving lights it dimsToo much glare during night driving
I probably woulda been fine with the much cheaper Amazon lights but I didn’t realize this was a feature.
Sold my 100 and went to a 200 a couple months ago. Found these while organizing the shop.
For those that do your own maintenance, these are up for grabs. Either come get them or pay for shipping. I’m near Acadia NP in Maine.
Probably not the right thread for giving stuff away but hopefully it’s allowed.
For those that do your own maintenance, these are up for grabs. Either come get them or pay for shipping. I’m near Acadia NP in Maine.
Probably not the right thread for giving stuff away but hopefully it’s allowed.
Well, they showed up Friday, so I went ahead and knocked them out today. Looking back, it wasn't so bad, in terms of parts removed. But christ alive I'm too old to be slinging 40lbs of metal around! Took me about 4 hrs total.
Interestingly, the CVs did not completely fix the clunk, so I guess the search continues. I've replaced the front diff bushings, axle hub flanges, and now CVs, and still get a bit of clunk. The CVs did however make a HUGE difference, and I had a boot that was torn anyway, so I'm very much glad I've done it. Thanks for the help pushing me over the line to tackle it! Couple of pics below of the new and old side by side, and the empty hole on the driver's side.
Installed some Solarscreens in the cargo area to keep the harsh Aussie sun off the back of my neck and hopefully make conditions bareable for the fridge in the back
Also took the time to empty the mud collectors in the front, only a matter of time before these started rusting out
Also took the time to empty the mud collectors in the front, only a matter of time before these started rusting out
My LBJ replacement from cruiser teq came in today so I figured what should have really only been a 90 minute job would be quick and easy to do because I was getting incredibly irritated with the awful squeaking noise. I’ve done two of them in the past before without any problems after all 
. Well, it was anything but quick and easy. The auto zone ball joint kit was absolute garbage and didn’t have the correct fitting. It kept going in crooked and for the life of me I could not seem to get the ball joint pressed in fully. I had to come up with the wildest concoctions with the limited space the kit gave me.
Once I finally got the ball joint pressed in enough to get the circlip on I noticed the thread got messed up somehow and a sliver at the tip had gotten chipped off. Spent about a good hour filing it down and doing everything I could without any specialty tools to get the stud to go back on…
I’m low key concerned the ball joint didn’t press in fully because the fitting I used seemed to be too thick walled to the point that it seemed to press in the ball joint but stopped where it did when it came into contact with the lower control arm surface. I’m assuming based on the design, as long as the circlip is able to be installed and with the weight of the car on the spindle pushing the ball joint in and not out I should be fine?
On the plus side, the awful squeaking noise is gone.
. Well, it was anything but quick and easy. The auto zone ball joint kit was absolute garbage and didn’t have the correct fitting. It kept going in crooked and for the life of me I could not seem to get the ball joint pressed in fully. I had to come up with the wildest concoctions with the limited space the kit gave me.Once I finally got the ball joint pressed in enough to get the circlip on I noticed the thread got messed up somehow and a sliver at the tip had gotten chipped off. Spent about a good hour filing it down and doing everything I could without any specialty tools to get the stud to go back on…
I’m low key concerned the ball joint didn’t press in fully because the fitting I used seemed to be too thick walled to the point that it seemed to press in the ball joint but stopped where it did when it came into contact with the lower control arm surface. I’m assuming based on the design, as long as the circlip is able to be installed and with the weight of the car on the spindle pushing the ball joint in and not out I should be fine?
On the plus side, the awful squeaking noise is gone.
After I did a make over of the knuckles mine was gone.
So bushings and needle bearings seem to be open on your side…?!?
Yeah the knuckles are next on the list.
What do you mean by bushings and needle bearings being open?
Gave the LC a wash + hand polish + hand wax. (Meguiar's Ultimate).
The Corolla however needed some PM this weekend. New Toyota radiator + hoses /clamps + thermostat + water inlet housing.
The Corolla however needed some PM this weekend. New Toyota radiator + hoses /clamps + thermostat + water inlet housing.
