What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (51 Viewers)

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In spring I'll be doing this exact job, with heater T's on top. Are the spark plugs all easily accessible?
The rearmost driver's side one took a little finagling the last time I messed with mine, but on balance it really wasn't too bad and they came out and went back in OK without removing much of anything. I changed them in the parking lot of the campground before driving 300 miles back home from a camping/ wheeling trip where I'd lost an ignition coil and thought "might as well..." if that tells you anything.
 
In spring I'll be doing this exact job, with heater T's on top. Are the spark plugs all easily accessible?
I ordered the Toyota OEM brass heater tees from Impex… $5 each in Japan, plus $10 shipping…

But they are not in stock until 2/20 of 2025. I can wait.

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was this head unit plug and play? what did you have before?
Yes! I had an older JVC head unit that I had installed myself and prior to that the OEM head unit. Both times I bought the Crutchfield adapter. Very easy install.
 
Yes! I had an older JVC head unit that I had installed myself and prior to that the OEM head unit. Both times I bought the Crutchfield adapter. Very easy install.
Did this bypass the factory amp and sub when you did the crutchfield wiring? Interested in doing the same 👍
 
Yes, no factory amp/sub, but I did upgrade all four door speakers.
 
Yes, no factory amp/sub, but I did upgrade all four door speakers.
Thanks. I already updated the speakers so good there. Any issues with power or no since you’re bypassing the amp? Thanks!
 
Thanks. I already updated the speakers so good there. Any issues with power or no since you’re bypassing the amp? Thanks!
The highest value bang for the buck in car audio…

Sound damping and insulation for the cabin.
 
The highest value bang for the buck in car audio…

Sound damping and insulation for the cabin.
Well, when the cones are dry rotted and ripped…
 
Installed the Victory 4X4 Roof rack last week, Installed two new Factory CV axles today at $574 each, then took it to the dealer for a front end alignment, two weeks ago installed 2 meter antenna from Gamviti (very nice design on the mount), and installed four KO2 tires on factory rims about three weeks ago.
 
Installed the Victory 4X4 Roof rack last week, Installed two new Factory CV axles today at $574 each, then took it to the dealer for a front end alignment, two weeks ago installed 2 meter antenna from Gamviti (very nice design on the mount), and installed four KO2 tires on factory rims about three weeks ago.
How was the CV job? It's been on my list for a minute, and I'm slowing gathering the motivation to pull the trigger
 
I posted a month or two back about my windscreen replacement, and the fitting of all the new moulding etc after half of it was missing/damaged etc when I bought the car.

Long story short, the windscreen got fitted and they decided they couldn't fit the moulding. I then had a separate guy come and sort the moulding but sadly the first chap fitted the windscreen a bit too high and as it was a few weeks later, it didn't have much give in the adhesive - fast forward a few weeks later, the windscreen cracked on the driver's side in line with the top rivet for the moulding.

As it's not a major crack right now and the car is watertight, I've held off getting it all re-done by the 2nd guy (the good one!) because I had an inspection on the truck by a lovely guy who mainly works on the 100 series and wanted to see what that was going to cost me first.

I've owned the truck since September and whilst I'm okay with technical stuff, I don't have the space or equipment for some stuff and I just wanted it checking over so I could work out what needed doing first and get myself a nice list together.

Well it was a list alright, and a big one too!
Overall it was broadly what I expected, there are a ton of the usual bushes, ball joints and bearings throughout that need changing, the brake fluid and steering fluid are both very very done so they need sorting asap. Rust wise (something that is a huge issue here in the UK) is thankfully not an issue on this currently which is why I bought this particular car.

There are various bigger tasks that need sorting over the coming months as preventative work such as radiator replacement, cambelt (done earlier this year but not genuine parts), water pump, potentially the steering rack, but I'm quite happy to work my way through the list over the next year, use genuine parts etc.

Another thing was the injector seal/seals - there was some blowby with the engine oil cap removed. Based on the mileage and general engine health, he felt it was 90% likely to be the injector seals. I'm now considering how best to approach it and whether to bite the bullet with new/reconditioned injectors rather than messing around, I think this is one that I want put to bed sooner rather than later.

What's interesting is that the steering always felt very vague to me and had a lot of 'play', he confirmed the rack mounts are also shot (potentially will replace the rack too depending on how things go), it was some vindication as I just knew it wasn't supposed to feel like that originally!

I'm glad I held off on getting the screen replaced again as this thing is going to bleed me dry for the foreseeable but I'm happy to invest in it as it deserves the love and I don't ever plan on selling it.

Overall, a slightly daunting list but I'm just going to start ordering stuff and chip away at this 237K mile reset.

Cheers!

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How was the CV job? It's been on my list for a minute, and I'm slowing gathering the motivation to pull the trigger
straight forward. pull the tires, use a sharp wood chisel to gently remove axle cover, remove hubs and brake discs, and a pry bar to disconnect the upper A arm then pull the axle ot. Prepare for some leakage of the 90w differential oil pre grease the new Toyota axle and reassemble. The aftermarket axles caused a huge vibration so stick to the Toyota units. Higher price but no vibration. My originals went for 196,000 miles.
 
I bought another 100, life is good!

The LC had some play in the rack so i traced it down to a bad rack bushing, replaced with Super Pro bushings and steering feels like new now.

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When doing this job, your life is a lot easier if you remove the oil cooler housing. Yes you can do without it but it's very difficult to do, remove your oil filter housing and replace all 3 gaskets as well. The figure 8, the big one that goes around the housing that attach to the bracket and the smaller one that attaches to the spin on part.


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Replaced the heater T's with OEM since I didn't know the history. Quite frankly the ones on it were some sort of beefy aftermarket T's that seem better than OEM. But now I know they're new.
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Replaced bad water inlet seals behind the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat with OEM a couple months ago. And I replaced all the fluid possible. All buttoned up now now just in time for the ice storm. Just have to keep an eye on coolant levels and look for leaks now.
 

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