What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (32 Viewers)

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Spring cleaning, preparing for Las Vegas valley triple digit temps. This is to address the condensation leak on the front passenger floor coming from the evaporator catch basin (only happens when AC is on, not heater).

Took off the glove compartment and removed this plastic panel/door for the evaporator; need to remove the door for the cabin filter as seen on the picture it has already been removed. This plastic panel it has 7 screws.View attachment 2658624
The removal is tight but doable, just bring extra patience so as not to damage any plastic tabs. Slide down a bit and once upper edge of this plastic panel has wiggled thru, pull it upwards and away from the dash.

Next was the rubber gasket inspection:
View attachment 2658627
This has seen better days, 253k miles on the clock and I bet this is still the original one from 2006.

Next is the dirt assessment, cleaning procedure (used a toothbrush taped on a wood stick for extension, purple power degreaser, 1” paint brush on the other end of the stick to get under the evaporator and get that dirt at the bottom), before and after.
View attachment 2658629

Assembly and resealing time. Figured that the best sealer is the liquid version to get into those curves, corners and bends. I opted to use FIPG since I still have lots left from my timing belt and water pump project 6 months ago.
View attachment 2658645
The old gasket on the top photo, it has served its purpose, he looks so happy and finally out Lol.

Cabin filter is also due for replacement, will do that in a few days when I get the new part from the mail. But for now I can say it was a good day. Give or take, I spent around 2 hours on this job.
Thank you for this write-up! Our 2003 LX with 261K just started to drip!
 
Thank you for this write-up! Our 2003 LX with 261K just started to drip!
I would not use any FIPG, sealant, silicone or gasket maker products in this repair. You would, effectively, be gluing the cover on.

The OEM cooler packing, Mr. T #88578-47040 is plenty… but to make it even better, liberally coat the new cooler packing with high quality silicone grease and install. That way you’ll ensure a water tight seal without gluing the whole assembly into one piece. Should stay water tight for longer as well.

Blow out the drain line to make sure it is not obstructed.

Another tip… the factory AC drain drips DIRECTLY onto the right front sway bar bracket. I’ll bet yours is rusty. Extending the drain to drip in a different spot is highly recommended.
Cruiser Garage offers a drain line extension kit… well worth the $12. Everything about this kit fits perfectly.

Just a heads up…
 
LC100, 2007-best location to penetrate firewall for antenna cable for 2 meter radio Using the Gamiviti front fender mount. Your suggestins appreciated
This is where I drilled it. Used this for a watertight pass through. https://amzn.to/49MUSIe
Mine is 04 but should be the same as 07 on this side.
PXL_20241218_034421346.MP.jpg


This is a pic of it before modifications.
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LC100, 2007-best location to penetrate firewall for antenna cable for 2 meter radio Using the Gamiviti front fender mount. Your suggestins appreciated
How large of a cable we talking? I came out through an existing penetration behind the glovebox and sealed it shut again for getting to the passenger front corner of the bumper. Have had no issues over the last 8+ years with it.
 
View attachment 3522637
Added Midland 50W unit and 3DB gain antenna. If there's any interest, I can import more RHD climate control units (all years/styles) and add them to cruiserpatch.com

I'll be offering 98-02 Land Cruiser RHD climate control units soon. I much prefer the dials to the button controls of the 98-02 LX

Hey @cruiserpatch, I have a RHD Bezel on the way. Was the harness plug-n-play, and did you extend the existing harness or install a RHD unit?
I had planned on just extending the harness but if the RHD harness would work I'd consider that route too.
 
Spent some time baselining the new LX. New plugs, filters, oil change, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body and power steering flush. Rack is a little weepy so hoping some fresh fluids and a shot of AT205 cheers the ole girl up. Threw in a new 27F Toyota Trustart battery, hard to beat for $150 and 84 month warranty. Oh and don't tell the Toyota dealer if it's going in a LX470. They don't like that apparently....something about voids the warranty, yada yada yada.

The VGRS steering is going to spoil me. Pulled a U turn coming out the dealer and my mind couldn't figure out why it was so effortless to steer. I also took a look at the one 1958 250 series they had on the lot. Liked some things about it, others not so much. Was $60k, salesman says it was the first one that hasn't sold minute it hit the lot. The cloth interior definitely was nice.

The slippery slope has turned into a freefall.

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  • Sandblasted and remediated rust around the windshield frame
  • replaced the windshield
  • replaced remaining stock coils w/ new densos
  • patched previous refurb plugs on the evap charcoal canister with PC11 plastic weld (previous glue did not hold).
  • tossed in a new bigger battery from interstate
  • and changed the oil

    She's ready for the road again.



s***ty rust .png


patched primed painted.png

coils.png

evap patch.png


IMG_3313.jpeg
 
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Spent some time baselining the new LX. New plugs, filters, oil change, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body and power steering flush. Rack is a little weepy so hoping some fresh fluids and a shot of AT205 cheers the ole girl up. Threw in a new 27F Toyota Trustart battery, hard to beat for $150 and 84 month warranty. Oh and don't tell the Toyota dealer if it's going in a LX470. They don't like that apparently....something about voids the warranty, yada yada yada.

The VGRS steering is going to spoil me. Pulled a U turn coming out the dealer and my mind couldn't figure out why it was so effortless to steer. I also took a look at the one 1958 250 series they had on the lot. Liked some things about it, others not so much. Was $60k, salesman says it was the first one that hasn't sold minute it hit the lot. The cloth interior definitely was nice.

The slippery slope has turned into a freefall.

View attachment 3795605

View attachment 3795606
Wow!! How many do you have? Want to share one with me? 😁
 
How easy was it to get to the backside) inside) to get the nut on the backside of the fitting? Looks great!
Easy, it's open space where clutch in manual transmission equipped trims.
 
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What do people do in the 100 world (I've been living in the 80 universe) for the later model stereo upgrades? Is there anything available?
I'm leaning towards a dash/windscreen mounted android auto screen and a BT-45 TOY bluetooth mod.
 
Fitted new washer jets today (no more bad spraying!) and new securing clips to the under bonnet sound deadening! Then decided to fit a new boot seal and upper tailgate seal too.
 
Left or right side antenna mounting?

There are a couple of existing firewall options with factory grommets… depending upon the OD of the cable you want to add.
Soap it up and pull it through.
I'm guessing you'll mount it on the passenger side. There's a grommet/gland behind the glove box that should work.
 
What do people do in the 100 world (I've been living in the 80 universe) for the later model stereo upgrades? Is there anything available?

Either get a bt45-toy and just use Bluetooth through your phone (that’s all I’ve done and it’s been perfect for me) or source some parts to make your center dash area The old pre-nav style and then be able to just install whatever double Din you want. I’d love to do the latter but don’t have the time to source parts. There’s a huge thread on the conversion that gives part numbers and where some people sourced stuff from. If I find it I’ll post it up here for you.

Edit: found the thread that pertains to mine. I think there’s a pre-03 floating around too.

 
Wow!! How many do you have? Want to share one with me? 😁
Maxed at 3. The gold 07 is getting sold in a couple months once I finish up the black garnet cruiser. Prior owner has first dibs on it but I'll be posting it up here if he decides to pass.
 
Replaced the DS diff seal using Cruiser Pa6ch diff seal driver. Took 5sec to fit the seal as opposed to 1/2 hour trying to get it in perfect and then second guessing your self if it's in or out too much or evenly seated, etc.
 
How large of a cable we talking? I came out through an existing penetration behind the glovebox and sealed it shut again for getting to the passenger front corner of the bumper. Have had no issues over the last 8+ years with it.
Coax cable about 3/16" or 1/4' for 2 meter radio and another coax for GMRS radio. I have the commercial cable lubricant I use for aircraft wiring. Thanks for your reply
 

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