What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (79 Viewers)

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The same issue can happen with the wiring from the body to the tailgate.

In case you discover that some of your rear lighting does not work…

A couple of years ago, my completely trouble free LX had an intermittent problem… while driving forward from a stop, the transmission would intermittently not want to shift out of first gear… had to drive home from lunch about 5 miles in first gear only.

After much research and puzzling over the issue, and a whole lot of entire vehicle assessment, I discovered that one of the back up lights was not illuminating. No codes set.

So I opened up the wiring in the tailgate and discovered that 4 wires were seriously chafed, cracked open and intermittently shorting to each other.

I replaced the entire section of wire and the back up lights began working correctly. Consequently, the issue with not wanting to shift out of first gear went away and has never come back.

My assumption is that the chafed tailgate wires and backup light issue was intermittently causing the backup lights to come on while I was driving forward… And PERHAPS, the PCM or transmission control module saw power across the transmission reverse switch and got confused. Thus, not allowing the transmission to shift out of first gear.

Just a semi educated guess… but problem resolved by repairing the rear lighting wires.

Weird-
Good to know. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Nope, doing my own home-brew. Convering the process in my build thread (linked in sig), but now on day 2 of no power due to the hurricane. All the time in the world while work is closed, but no electricity to work at night. 😢
Nice on doing your own. I'm following your build. Hope your power gets restored soon.
 
Installed the Plaidwagon washer reservoir. Easy install, and looks great in the engine bay. Glad I got it done before my Dissent bumper comes in.


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I finished my rear brake job - complete renew of brake hoses, union bolts, hardware, fitting kit, shims, pads, calipers, rotors. Happy with that work. But, when i opened up the rr it was oily, wetish in there and smelled of diff oil... im pretty sure its no brakefluid:
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So hit me with the bad news pls - whats your diagnosis? Is it just brake drum deflector, gasket, oil seal? Or is it wise to do the bearings o-rings and seals - perhaps even the entire side shaft replacement - at this stage? I'm guessing its never been serviced in the vehicle's history.
 
I finished my rear brake job - complete renew of brake hoses, union bolts, hardware, fitting kit, shims, pads, calipers, rotors. Happy with that work. But, when i opened up the rr it was oily, wetish in there and smelled of diff oil... im pretty sure its no brakefluid:
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So hit me with the bad news pls - whats your diagnosis? Is it just brake drum deflector, gasket, oil seal? Or is it wise to do the bearings o-rings and seals - perhaps even the entire side shaft replacement - at this stage? I'm guessing its never been serviced in the vehicle's history.

The only parts of the shaft to worry about are the part you can see (totally fine), the splined section (likely completely fine), and the section that the bearing rides on. Super duper unlikely you need a shaft replacement.

Similar story for me last year, farmed it out to my local indie for about $700 (both sides). Expensive, but not something I wanted to fool with. I don't know which of the three things (bearing, o-rings, or axle seals) was causing the diff oil leak. At 250k, any of them could have gone.
 
Started with an input/output shaft seal leak and decided to the route of a 10% high range gear reduction for a buddy’s 2000 100 series with all new seals and bearings overhaul on the TCase, almost done.
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Installed the Plaidwagon washer reservoir. Easy install, and looks great in the engine bay. Glad I got it done before my Dissent bumper comes in.


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Looks great. I gotta ask whats the point of relocating it? I've ran a Dissent bumper for years and oversized tires and never had any issues with anything.
 
Looks great. I gotta ask whats the point of relocating it? I've ran a Dissent bumper for years and oversized tires and never had any issues with anything.
Aesthetics is the only reason for me. With the Dissent bumper (or other high clearance bumpers), you can see the stock water reservoir.
 
Looks great. I gotta ask whats the point of relocating it? I've ran a Dissent bumper for years and oversized tires and never had any issues with anything.

You have to define "oversized tires". It might mean 33" all-terrain tires for some, 35" mud-terrain tires for others. It's an eyesore for many with aftermarket bumpers, plus would be an issue for clearance depending on the whole front setup. That said, the Plaidwagon looks great, but personally I ended up relocating with a $20 dollar bottle from Amazon for the time being.
 
LC just turned 313K and got a well deserved bath. She had mud in her unmentionable areas from our last off road adventure.
 
Continued prep for a 2,000 mile round trip.
  • New 27F battery
  • Magnaflow muffler
  • Set AHC pressure
  • Alignment and tire balance/rotation
  • Front diff bushings
  • Trail Tailor front tow hooks
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I replaced the center diff lock sending unit (Beck/Arnley 201-1788 Back-Up Switch) so that the indicator light comes on and VSC turns off (or at least the VSC light turns on). As far as I can tell, the diff was locking despite no indicator light. I do not know if VSC was shutting off when the diff was locked.

An easy ten minute job if you have a 27mm wrench and can handle a few cuts and burns. If you have extra time, you can put a ratcheting wrench on the old unit upside down, "loosen" it until your wrench is stuck under the exhaust heat shield, and spend ten extra minutes prying and hammering it out before you turn it over and do the job.
 
I replaced the center diff lock sending unit (Beck/Arnley 201-1788 Back-Up Switch) so that the indicator light comes on and VSC turns off (or at least the VSC light turns on). As far as I can tell, the diff was locking despite no indicator light. I do not know if VSC was shutting off when the diff was locked.

An easy ten minute job if you have a 27mm wrench and can handle a few cuts and burns. If you have extra time, you can put a ratcheting wrench on the old unit upside down, "loosen" it until your wrench is stuck under the exhaust heat shield, and spend ten extra minutes prying and hammering it out before you turn it over and do the job.
I did this in Jan 2017 using same part and it worked flawless till last year. Seems like I have to do that again. Diff locks but no light on dash.
 
I did this in Jan 2017 using same part and it worked flawless till last year. Seems like I have to do that again. Diff locks but no light on dash.
You might be able to get away with pulling the old one and just pushing the spring in and out. Some people say it just gets stuck from lack of use.
 
My two girls asked me right after I had my afternoon coffee and pastry yesterday, “Dad, what do you want to do it’s father’s day weekend?” I replied: “are you guys up for an adventure this evening?” And them being me and me being me, and the cruiser being the cruiser it is. We hopped in the car and went to the highest point in the Las Vegas valley. My 15yo did most of the uphill driving at night! Super proud moment.
📍Cottonwood Pass NV
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This is what our builds are all about, to serve it’s purpose - and that is to create life long memories.
Happy Father’s Day to all the Dads here.
Which rear bumper lower lights you have ? I will really appreciate if you could share the details on LED upgrade you have done :)
 

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