What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (126 Viewers)

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I've been prepping for a week in Ouray/Telluride/Silverton area for the Rocky Mountain Toyota Roundup. Front recovery points added to my ARB bumper, Winch, Aux Battery and DC/DC charger, rear fuse panel powered from Aux battery, finished my 80/20 rear fridge mount with PowerTank and fire extinguisher mounts, replaced u-joints and de-scaled the drive shafts, pulled the running boards and got my GMRS radio installed with the ORS center console bracket.

I might have spent more than the last week on this, can't lie. ;)

Be sure to post some photos from the run, we want to see your 100!
 
Replaced alternator and tried to patch a split cv boot with silicone tape. It split 1/3 of the way around right behind the clamp. That silicone tape sticks to itself with a vengeance, so we’ll see. So far it’s held together about 350 highway miles, but I’m going to grab a cv axle spare in SLC - I have my doubts it’ll hold for a week in the San Juans. I thought about grabbing new boots from Cruiser Outfitters, but I think knocking the end off the shaft without a vice would be challenging.

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you can borrow a jaw puller from a part store to pull off the bearing carrier with ease:

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Did my first-ever road side repair when I was 3.5 hours from my house. As I was coming down Echo Summit into S Lake Tahoe, I rolled down my windows and heard a banshee-esque scream coming from the engine bay. I pulled over once I got into town and knew it had to be one of the v belt pulleys. Out of shear luck I was across the street from a Napa and pulled up the aftermarket part numbers from a YT vid I had watched recently.

I had been hearing a little extra noise in the bay recently, but thought it might be the belt itself, so I already had on order a new OEM idler pulley, belt tensioner pulley and new belt, but it hadn't arrived yet. I was able to source a Gates belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley from the Napa. I took off the idler pulley first. It spun with some resistance and very little noise, which was great because the Gates idler pulley wasn't going to work anyway.

When I removed the belt tensioner pulley it was completely seized and fortunately the Gates model was a direct fit. The hardest part was getting the damn belt back on, but I got it done and continued on my way. When I got home last night, the box with the new OEM parts was in my mailbox. Huzzah.
 
Sorry to hear that @LandyOverLand !

I finally finished the install of the steering wheel. Finally steering wheel controls for the after market radio. I love the new look.
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In case you are wondering, you will only need a 6 Pin clock spring to make it work.
 
Replaced alternator and tried to patch a split cv boot with silicone tape. It split 1/3 of the way around right behind the clamp. That silicone tape sticks to itself with a vengeance, so we’ll see. So far it’s held together about 350 highway miles, but I’m going to grab a cv axle spare in SLC - I have my doubts it’ll hold for a week in the San Juans. I thought about grabbing new boots from Cruiser Outfitters, but I think knocking the end off the shaft without a vice would be challenging.

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If you've got a little time to burn in SLC, you're welcome to a garage here in the downtown area. It's just a home garage, nothing special. But I did the SAS here, so it should be adequate.
 
I’ve got tackle this job sooner rather than later on the driver side, but I’m not looking forward to it.
Was not as bad as I thought it would be. Couple tips for you:

1. Obviously order all new hardware.
2. Purchase short and deep Matco 14mm “Non Slip” sockets. These were amazing! Also purchase some 3/8 impact wobble extensions from HF. Cheap.
3. Remove the air intake and remove the bolts from both engine mounts and the 2 nuts from the Transmission mount and Jack up the engine and place a small piece of 2x4 in between the mount.

I was able to get my ICON flex head torque wrench on every Exhaust manifold stud. You do not have to physically pull out the heat shield, just remove the 4 bolts and pull it towards the oil filter and slightly down and it will be out of your way enough to do the job. You will need a various amount extensions to accomplish this job but totally doable. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
 
Nothing major. Got tired of dragging my jerry can holder on Hell's, etc out in Moab so reduced it's depth by 50%. Cut it in half and welded it back together. I'm slowly switching to RotoPax but still like to carry an old school jerry back there in addition. You can't beat the bang for the buck of an old jerry with regards to price VS capacity.


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I may be the only 100 Series owner that doesn’t know the answer to this question, but what is the purpose of this bulb?
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I may be the only 100 Series owner that doesn’t know the answer to this question, but what is the purpose of this bulb?View attachment 3683811
Decoration, basically. I replaced mine with amber bulbs which is a better look in my opinion. Let me see if I can find a pic.
 
Rebooted my cv axle this morning in @saucebox garage. The mud community comes through again! Thanks, Don, for the space and extra set of hands.

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If you turn your headlight switch one click they will illuminate. They’re just an “extra DRL”. I’m not really sure what purpose they serve.
Perhaps both bulbs are bad, which seems unlikely, but no combination of switch movement will illuminate either side. All of the other lights work normally.
 

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