What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)

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Over the weekend I did my usual 4k mile change oil interval. Now on my 4th year using 0w20, no issues or leaks, love it. Fumoto came through again for the win, first 20 miles was on dirt.
IMG_2268.jpeg

The next day after our short day trip trail, I switched to a set of 285/65R18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers lol now I have a spare set of 275/70R18 Falken AT3Ws with 90% life in it, planning to sell it soon. Loving how light the LX accelerates now, feels lighter.
 
I knocked out an evap code with a new vacuum switching valve and refoamed my subwoofer and front door speakers. I will tackle the rear door speakers this weekend.

I used the Simply Speakers kit from eBay.

Here are some good how-to videos for accessing the subwoofer and front door speakers. For the subwoofer, note that it is easy to remove the entire housing from the car--the Youtuber did not realize this and did the refoaming in the car.



 
OEMGUY0720 said:
Over the weekend I did my usual 4k mile change oil interval. Now on my 4th year using 0w20, no issues or leaks, love it.
Click to expand...
I am interested… why use 0W20 engine oil? Especially since 5W30 is the spec for this engine…

Do you notice a performance advantage, or a fuel mileage advantage?
Have you done a lab test on the used engine oil to ensure this lower viscosity oil is not damaging your engine components?

I am quite interested in your findings after 4 years of experience with lighter weight engine oil.

Thanks
 
Unrulykid said:
I am interested… why use 0W20 engine oil? Especially since 5W30 is the spec for this engine…

Do you notice a performance advantage, or a fuel mileage advantage?
Have you done a lab test on the used engine oil to ensure this lower viscosity oil is not damaging your engine components?

I am quite interested in your findings after 4 years of experience with lighter weight engine oil.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Performance advantage - I honestly don’t know, I drive slow lol. But I do like how fine and smooth it idles and runs. With my current setup I am getting 15mpg mix city/hiway so I guess that’s not so bad. No lab test, for me as long as it runs good, not under/over-filled the 2uz is happy. I do an alternate between Motul 300V and Mobil1. I use 0w20 plainly because all my other vehicles use the same, just trying to be practical with stocking one viscosity in the shelf.
 
leveeguy said:
CV refresh and reboot, replace lower ball joints & outer tire rods, reboot upper ball joints
Click to expand...
Which ball joint did you buy?
 
I was noticing a significant thunk in the driveline every time I even thought about the throttle.

Process of elimination, easiest to hardest - greased the zirks last week. it helped but only marginally, and it didnt last.

on to today - I flushed 14qts of valvoline maxlife atf through the atf cooler lines. used a drain bucket and a measuring bucket. turn the car on/turn the car off/refill. rinse and repeat. it was honestly easier than the zirks. its just time consuming.

overall I would say it made a 75% improvement. theres still a thunk, but its nowhere near as bad. Im satisfied for now.
 
tothpl said:
I was noticing a significant thunk in the driveline every time I even thought about the throttle.

Process of elimination, easiest to hardest - greased the zirks last week. it helped but only marginally, and it didnt last.

on to today - I flushed 14qts of valvoline maxlife atf through the atf cooler lines. used a drain bucket and a measuring bucket. turn the car on/turn the car off/refill. rinse and repeat. it was honestly easier than the zirks. its just time consuming.

overall I would say it made a 75% improvement. theres still a thunk, but its nowhere near as bad. Im satisfied for now.
Click to expand...
Front diff bushing? That is usually a thunk, when shifting from reverse into drive, or from neutral into drive.

Drivetrain lash is caused by the aggregate of many little issues…

Do you have vibration under acceleration? Do you have vibration under deceleration? That would be U joints, most likely. Maybe pinion lash.

Front axle drive hubs worn?

Just thinking out loud.
 
Replaced these front whipper snappers

853EE7F8-E3C9-40DE-AD3B-4DD2C50727B9.jpeg
 
Unrulykid said:
Front diff bushing? That is usually a thunk, when shifting from reverse into drive, or from neutral into drive.

Drivetrain lash is caused by the aggregate of many little issues…

Do you have vibration under acceleration? Do you have vibration under deceleration? That would be U joints, most likely. Maybe pinion lash.

Front axle drive hubs worn?

Just thinking out loud.
Click to expand...
I replaced the two/three easy front diff bushings a while back. didnt make any difference.

No drivetrain vibrations.

how would the drive hubs be worn? isnt it just a flange that sandwiches the rotor? (as much as I like doing my own maintenance, I took it to a shop to get the bearings done last time. I am not intimately familiar with that assembly)

I appreciate the help troubleshooting!!
 
tothpl said:
I replaced the two/three easy front diff bushings a while back. didnt make any difference.

No drivetrain vibrations.

how would the drive hubs be worn? isnt it just a flange that sandwiches the rotor? (as much as I like doing my own maintenance, I took it to a shop to get the bearings done last time. I am not intimately familiar with that assembly)

I appreciate the help troubleshooting!!
Click to expand...
The front axles mesh with the hub to turn the wheel. If the splines are worn you will have play and a thunk. You can check by jacking the wheels and checking if the wheel will spin at all before the axle starts to move.
 

It works really well. Only problem is that my add-on Bluetooth module replaces the CD changer. Nothing wrong with that, but the Android head doesn't recognize the CD changer as an official phone module. So the music plays to the radio, but phone audio goes through the head unit. I'm working on a software fix with my phone.
 
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