What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (53 Viewers)

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If you cut off the shaft of the old BJ, it becomes much easier to remove. When pressing in the new one, I took off the boot to avoid damaging it!
If the ball joint is hard to press in just crank down on the press tool as hard as you can then smack the control arm with a hammer. It should pop in a little and you can repeat until it is all the way in. I always crank down good on the press tool when I think the ball joint is fully seated then give the control arm a whack just to be sure.
 
Subwoofer blew out after a wedding. We had a DD and during the ride home we we're blaring tunes and singing like a well-rehearsed choir....

After 17 years of loyal service, I guess we were too much for the ol subwoofer. I looked at a few options. The local speaker shop was like a half-eaten bag of chips...close to worthless....and dealership pricing for replacement was laughable. I ordered a new subwoofer from LexusPartsNow. Unfortunately, I did not realize that one of the plastic mounting brackets was broke until a few weeks after the subwoofer was delivered so LexusPartsNow would not accept a return. Warning to others - if you order anything from this site make sure you open the package and inspect for damage. If I recall, this has to be done within 48 hours of delivery. I'm not going to accept a broken "new" part in my beloved 100 series, so I had to get resourceful. I cut off the bracket from the old subwoofer and did some plastic "welding" using a soldering iron. This worked remarkable well. Check YouTube for a couple videos if you've never seen this. Forgot to take some photos of the finished install but this came together nicely and now the choir is back together blasting melodies for the world to enjoy.

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Replaced the complete door lock assembly. I could have replaced the motor only, since the rest of it worked, but the door sometimes didn't latch quite right so I decided to try to replace the entire unit. It's like closing a new 100 door now! :) The old one looked like it was in great shape (below), but I am glad I splurged for the new one. Part number was: AISIN DLT-081

I realized after I took out the old one, that these parts are only for driver's or passenger's sides...I got lucky and accidentally ordered the correct one for the driver's side.

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Finally got around and installed the Auxbeam switch panel. Install is pretty easy and straighforward, it's the cable management that takes a while to get done. The kit comes with literally everything you need to install this panel. Heavy duty gauge wires for the battery/ground, resetable circuit breaker, prefab mounting tray for the unit. All for around $140 shipped sure beats spending double or triple that with the other brands.

I hooked up an axillary single trumpet air horn for when I need to wake someone up from their slumber at the light. 2nd port connected the electric AC fan for those hot summer days sitting in traffic and the AC cant keep up.

I need to figure out a better place for this fuse.
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The ashtray is not used so I secured the mounting bracket to the face of the ashtray...I'll clean up the cord later and maybe have it feed through the ashtray slot.

Electric AC fan is now functional
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Mounted the single trumpet air horn ontop of the bumper reinforcement bar
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Been MIA for a while as this has been a busy summer! Mainly just using & abusing the LC...other than oil changes and way too much gas, I only made a few changes since the spring

Installed a Dobinsons eBay duplicate snorkel with the advice from @87warrior and it turned out about as expected. I'm glad I went with this vs. the ARB style. After a few camping excursions, the rear end started to squeak so I replaced the rear UCAs with OEM and the lowers with the heavy duty Dobinsons adjustable ones. Squeaks solved (except for the rear DS upper shock mount :bang:).

However- After removing the lowers, I adjusted the new ones to the same length as the old, so that the bolts would perfectly slide through both. The drivers side has about 30% more thread exposed than the passenger...... What happened here? Neither side had any issues being installed... at a loss.


Also- What should I expect to $pend for a shop to replace my CVs? I have new OEM diff gaskets, bearings/races (might as well) and aftermarket replacement CVs in hand. Intended to do this myself but I dont have any time off for the foreseeable future.

Thanks All!
 
Installed Bora 1.25” wheel spacers, pinch weld mod, and 2016+ Land Cruiser wheels on GoodYear Wrangler Ultra Terrain AT 275/70/18.

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Been MIA for a while as this has been a busy summer! Mainly just using & abusing the LC...other than oil changes and way too much gas, I only made a few changes since the spring

Installed a Dobinsons eBay duplicate snorkel with the advice from @87warrior and it turned out about as expected. I'm glad I went with this vs. the ARB style. After a few camping excursions, the rear end started to squeak so I replaced the rear UCAs with OEM and the lowers with the heavy duty Dobinsons adjustable ones. Squeaks solved (except for the rear DS upper shock mount :bang:).

However- After removing the lowers, I adjusted the new ones to the same length as the old, so that the bolts would perfectly slide through both. The drivers side has about 30% more thread exposed than the passenger...... What happened here? Neither side had any issues being installed... at a loss.


Also- What should I expect to $pend for a shop to replace my CVs? I have new OEM diff gaskets, bearings/races (might as well) and aftermarket replacement CVs in hand. Intended to do this myself but I dont have any time off for the foreseeable future.

Thanks All!
Cv replacement and bearing repack is probably 3 hours per side plus diff oil change and alignment would be about 7-9 hours total at $150-$250hr depending on your local shop rates.
 
Without a proper template, it is crude with. Imperfections, but it’s comfortable. It’s gonna stay on there and I learned a lot during the process, and I’ve seen worse.

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Installed Bora 1.25” wheel spacers, pinch weld mod, and 2016+ Land Cruiser wheels on GoodYear Wrangler Ultra Terrain AT 275/70/18.

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Those are the exact wheels I've been searching for to get for my cruiser! They look really good!!

I spent this weekend getting a lift installed on my cruiser after a couple years of owning it!! I love how it looks! It drives a little funny, but I think I'm just overanalyzing it. Or it could be the blown out ball joints lol!
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Good work, it’s not easy. Hit it with a heat gun and quench with a damp towel and you can take a lot of those wrinkles out.
it's HORWEEN leather. I'm not sure if it will work for that. I was thinking of cutting a slit down the back of the spokes to remove a sliver of leather, and then sewing it up tight to tighten the leather around the spokes. no, it was not easy. it took hours.
Update: I ended up just cutting out some veg tan leather shims to shove in behind the leather covering the spokes. it took up some of the loose, and it's a little better. I may have another go at this in a year or so. I'm ok with how it turned out for now.
 
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Installed new inner and outer tie rods. Went smoother than expected. was going to do the rack bushings as well but will tackle another weekend.
Question: do I need to paint the outer tie rods or are they ok to leave them how they are?

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The inner cv axle boots, the small end, have been weeping grease for a little while on my LC100. I've not lost too much grease, so I decided to find a remedy. If you are having this problem, and are in early stages, get the German made worm gear clamps from cruisergarage.com

I just bought the little kit which has x1 large and x1small clamp per kit, to take care of 1 boot. I purchased two kits, just so I could get 2 of the small clamps. the kits are around 8 dollar or so a piece, and you get a cool decal with the purchase of each kit. The clamps are the exact size needed to replace, or in my case go over top of the old band clamps on your boots. The edges are perfectly rounded so there is no digging into the boot. I was very pleased this was such an easy fix. I tightened the clamps down overtop the old band clamps and now my boot has ceased leaking, and it's not sliding around anymore whatsoever. Finally an easy fix.

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Finally it's nice weather in H-town!

So rotated tires, a 5 tire rotation. Noticed passenger side front had a bit of bearing play. Just tightened it up while I'm in there. Driver side is good. Probably I didn't tighten it up when I did wheel bearings 20-30k miles ago.
 
Installed new inner and outer tie rods. Went smoother than expected. was going to do the rack bushings as well but will tackle another weekend.
Question: do I need to paint the outer tie rods or are they ok to leave them how they are?

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Paint them. They'll look 100 years old by tomorrow if you don't.
 

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