Gently push in on the clip on the right and pull off the housing. The clips should face the inside on both lights if I remember correctly.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (22 Viewers)
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Gently push in on the clip on the right and pull off the housing. The clips should face the inside on both lights if I remember correctly.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
After getting to clean metal I scuffed the area with sandpaper up to 400 grit
Duplicolor metal primer then AutomotiveTouchup.com matched base coat
Nothing too fancy as this area is pretty hidden and the goal is mostly to seal the metal and stop future corrosion
Decided to make my own version of the Ram Ball Mount from a piece of plywood.
Got the buffer out and polished the truck. Half because it needed it, half because I was going to put on the crawlarado hood blackout... but they sent me the LC version instead of the LX. At least she got a good shining.
Replaced the corner light I tore apart accidentally and did the turn signal corner mod while I was at it. Big thanks to @prwillard2 for the outstanding write-up.
Replaced the corner light I tore apart accidentally and did the turn signal corner mod while I was at it. Big thanks to @prwillard2 for the outstanding write-up.
I've been back and forth on buying an ASFIR front skid plate, and was originally going to just pass on getting it but after a beer or two decided to take advantage of the half off shipping and Halloween flash sale. $269 shipped to US of A.
For anyone wondering, the sale is still on for the next hour (in addition to the half off shipping).
For anyone wondering, the sale is still on for the next hour (in addition to the half off shipping).
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Red Beard
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TRDdrew
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had a bit of PDR work to correct my "tree tap" from the last wheeling trip. gave it a good cleaning and a paint correction
Took my LX470 to Ralph Hayes Toyota to get the front brakes done, turns out the front wheel hub is shot as well before it’s safe to drive. At least they gave me a loaner RAV4 to drive while they get the parts shipped in.
Turns out the rear suspension bushings are shot and the cost has me considering an ACH delete, which I really don’t want to do because it’s so soft riding… but I’m just thinking cost to maintain long-term.
Turns out the rear suspension bushings are shot and the cost has me considering an ACH delete, which I really don’t want to do because it’s so soft riding… but I’m just thinking cost to maintain long-term.
Do you mean bushings on the shocks themselves or the control arms? Because control arm bushings are pretty common to go back and are the same whether you can AHC or not, so they shouldn't weigh in on your decision on AHC.
If you are indeed talking about the bushings that sit on top of the AHC, those are definitely much much less expensive to replace than the whole suspension (shocks, springs, torsion bars.).
Control arm. The dealer said they are part of the control arm assembly and the rear upper and lower control arms all needs replaced.
AHC has nothing to do with your rear control arms. I am not surprised that the control arm bushings need replacing and while there are bushings available, it is pretty common to just replace the whole arm themselves.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
After avoiding this like the plague. I have begun chasing wires from rodent damage. Along the way bypassing the Nakamichi amp. I was exasperated to find out it was only four wires and ALLLL that other nonsense was unnecessary as I am planning to run my own amp, and crazy stereo, all hidden in stock location. Cause If it ain't loud I can't hear it. Cause, I'm deaf... The irony isn't lost. Haha, Anyhoo, used the Corsa plug suggested here, and a couple of four boops later. It works like a champion. The antenna has decided to start going up and down again. Perhaps, once the wire damage repair is completed the sunroof will pretend to work again?
![IMG_1111[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_1111-1-jpg.3157520/ "IMG_1111[1].JPG")
![IMG_1113[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_1113-1-jpg.3157528/ "IMG_1113[1].JPG")
Through much trial and many errors, I have found that the stock subwoofer location is undersized and inadequate for anything resembling a “crazy stereo”. Ask me how I know…
I finally realized the physics of the situation, and spent the dough for a separate subwoofer in enclosure… I installed in a manner that it can be removed and wiring safed off in under five minutes for those trips when you need all of the cargo/passenger space available. With the subwoofer removed, you cannot tell that it was ever there. But when it is installed, it can move mountains…
Strongly recommend that you install sound dampening pads all over the inside of all 4 doors and hatch/rear… it dramatically reduces road noise, and keeps the music inside the truck, so that the amplifier actually plays more loudly to the ear, and mimics a much more powerful stereo. Use 2 ohm speakers and sub to maximize amplifier power. Larger amplifiers are, well, LARGER… And will not necessarily fit in the stock amplifier location… AudioControl makes a VERY POWERFUL yet small framed 5 channel amp that is famously well built and sounds wonderful… very discreet. Fits perfectly in the stock location.
Just sharing my physics lessons learned, and a heads up for you before you go trying to make a 6” or 8” subwoofer work in that stock location.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
This is awesome! Thank you for the tips. Because when in doubt add more sound dampening. Then add some more. It's not a race car so weight isn't a concern. I have some experience with building SQ systems professionally back when I was a younger idiot and before I lost my hearing (might have something to do with not being able to hear good, haha). I have used audio control products mostly the LC6 or LC2 units but since I am dumping the OEM radio line input or a DSP isn't needed for my application. Thank you sincerely for the ideas.
For my current setup, I am actually installing a 6.5" Bazooka Dual 2-ohm replacement woofer in the OEM location with a quick disconnect that will also run to my 10" JL Audio real woofer in a slim but ported enclosure that will be industrially velcroed to the floor for easy removal behind the third row. Since the JL is so efficient I can run the minimal power and get some decent bass out of it. I want to actually remove the rear climate system and flush in a JL 13TW5 but that will come later on when I do a drawer system. For now, once the interior and sunroof pieces show up I will begin the wonderful task of trying to insert 6 or so boxes of NVX 90 mil deadener with some mass-loaded vinyl blankets. I have some Focal Flax FTX series I believe 6.5" components for the front doors and some cheapo JBL pro series coaxes for the rears. Everything will run off an Alpine INE-w650 head and (2) of JL audio's MX series baby-sized amps that will get shoved into the dash when I install the salvage yard replacement dash. I run this same setup in my Sequoia and it will frequently get near the 115 dB mark and set off my watch warning for loud noises. It is loud but crystal clear. Due to the nature of my hearing loss, I need real physical sound and not the type coming to the ear drum in order to actually enjoy music. I like those amps because I do not have to give up any space or worry about heat, and can get more than adequate power (500 RMS mono for the sub and 500/4 for the speakers). Plus they have the added benefit of being water resistant so should my little electrical dumpster fire get wet from let's say a leaking windshield. I need not worry.
If I am missing anything please let me know cause I really would like to do this job once instead of several times like the other issues this ridiculousness has been.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Any pictures of how you went about sound dampening the hatch/tailgate? I was looking at the upper hatch a few weekends ago and didn't see too many places that felt like the sheet metal needed dampening, but I know next to nothing about this topic.
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This makes me reconsider stock wheels. Looks phenomenal
