What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (31 Viewers)

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Dressed up the fairlead a little bit

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Got it on Amazon as an open package/defect for $120. Couldn't pass it up at that price. Took a gamble and when it got to me there was a single rounded corner from being dropped once.

Not to dissuade, but I think the XTV hook is made for ATVs. A max load of 10K is pretty quickly reached with our trucks.

That plus steel rope...sketch.
 
Got the sunroof working with all new cables and guides just to have the drivers window stop working shortly there after.
Where did you end up getting the parts? I've been hoping to get a used working cassette to make the change out faster, but I keep striking out.
 
Not to dissuade, but I think the XTV hook is made for ATVs. A max load of 10K is pretty quickly reached with our trucks.

That plus steel rope...sketch.

Son of a..... I guess I should have read closer to see the XTV 😑

Looking up specs it's rated at 10K with a 20K break strength. My winch is 9.5K lbs so I definitely need to step it up if I ever plan to use a snatch block. However, I can't find details on max load rating for the clevis hook that came with my winch, and generic searches for galvanized steel hooks show a load rating of 4K lbs, meaning even the Ultrahook XTV would be better than what it came with. Thoughts?
 
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Before the LC went to paint I removed the rack and and sealed the fixing holes .....
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Here is the vehicle in the paint shop last week. They are doing very thorough job, grille and most lights removed, door handles and bumper covers off, windshield out ...

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Installed the Prospeed rack yesterday. Thanks to Brian@Prospeed being so responsive on email when I hit a few snags that wasn't clear from watching YouTube install videos. On my LX470, I completely removed the weather strip to reveal the LC bolt locations. Used some silicone and the bolts I no longer needed to plug up the LX rack holes which are in a different location. Also, the spacers have different sizes where the longer ones needed to be in the front. Otherwise, a pretty easy install. Just needed my neighbor to help lift off the OEM one and then put on the new one. Test drove today and no whistling or detectable wind noise (didn't go on freeway yet). Otherwise, pretty happy with it. Rained last night with my rig outside and no noticeable leaks, so I think I'm good to go.

The only problem is I can't figure out how to install my existing Yakima FatCat6 ski rack onto this new rack. The old Yakima mounting hardware expects oval shaped crossbars. I bought their T-slot kit, but the bolt head is too big and won't fit in the groove of the Prospeed crossbars. Tried searching some forums for Prinsu solutions and it appears others did something similar, but couldn't find the actual answer on hardware needed. Any help here greatly appreciated.

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One tip to help others with a 06 (and probably 07) LX, the YouTube videos on removing the OEM rack are not right for this model year. The OEM rack caps in the front and rear do NOT lift straight up. Instead, it appears they've been redesigned to lift forward (for the front ones) and back for the rear ones. Here you can see the two clips for the front ones. I used the orange plastic prying tool to lift around the rubber gasket to break the seal due to gunk and there is a rubber flap in the front you can put fingers under to slowly lift up and out.

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Also, it appears they changed from using a torx bolt (as seen in the YouTube videos) to a regular 12mm bolt which made ti easier:


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If anyone in the Seattle/Eastside area wants a free OEM Willow Green roof rack, let me know.
If you add 1/4 spacers to the front mounts the rack will sit level, and follow the contour of the roof. Makes a huge difference in how it looks.

You might have to disconnect one end of the bar and slide the t-slot hardware in that way. That's the only real downside of this rack.

Jim
 
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You might have to disconnect one end of the bar and slide the t-slot hardware in that way. That's the only real downside of this rack.

Jim

Even before I mounted the rack, I tried sliding the Yakima t-slot bolt into the groove and it's just too big to go in even from the side of the crossbar.
 
Well, finally decided to join the club here on Mud.

We did some wheeling this week, trimmed my front bumper and installed a Badlands Apex 12k winch and winch plate, and did some basic reorganization in the cargo area of the cruiser to clear up the middle seats for hauling another couple out into the wilderness!

Also have taken both driveshafts out and cleaned and regreased the U-joints in an attempt to stop a pretty severe driveline vibration from 50+MPH, rotated and checked balance on tires, and greased both driveshafts as well. Going to be checking in on what you all think about this issue this evening. Looking forward to talking to, and hopefully learning more and more about this rig with you all.

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Had a stumbling engine late last week. No codes. Finally got a pending code of cylinder 6 misfire. Swapped the coil with cylinder 4 and the code moved to cylinder 4.

Ordered 8 Denso coils from Rockauto at like $48/ea. I didn’t know the history of the coils and have a 4K mile road trip coming up so better safe than sorry.

Swapped all 8 this morning before work. Took about an hour start to finish. Driver side is a PITA. 3 of the 8 had cracks, so not sure how much life they had left.
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