That’s awesome! I use just a standard 10” Orion dob. I can imagine you found some amazing views out there.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (72 Viewers)
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Suspected my drive flanges were worn so I ordered a pair. I was right. This should probably be a mandatory replacement whenever the axles are replaced. Huge thanks to Cruiser Outfitters for the crazy fast shipping.
Old:
New:
Old:
New:
I had a V8 4runner (same engine) do this. Randomly one day it started running like crap/misfiring. CEL was misfire for the whole left bank. Popped off timing covers and sure enough one side had skipped 3 teeth. Didn't happen again after installing a new TB.
While I wasn't replacing my drive axles, I wanted to replace the flanges while I had the assembly apart during a front brake refresh. I couldn't get the new flanges onto the ends of my old drive axles without starting to mar and dent up the metal. I finally gave up, pried the new one back off and put the old flange back on and called it good. Did you have any fitment issues when you did this? It was friggin' tight!
When I installed my new headlight assemblies, the OEM hood supports wouldn't hold the hood up well. After 30 seconds, it would start drooping and if I didn't push it back up, it would bonk me on the head. Decided to replace them and bought the StrongArm ones Amazon product ASIN B001O12368. Pretty easy install, just had to use a broom to prop up the hood when I had one side removed. The only complaint is that the StrongArm is slightly shorter than the OEM (maybe half inch?). But it still raises the hood sufficiently so that's not a concern. Will see how well they hold up.
Installed my eBay seat cover tonight. I’ve never touched upholstery before my steering wheel. And now this. So I’m happy with the turnout.
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Do you know what was preventing the new flanges from going on? New axle + new flanges will be a very tight fit, but a used axle and new flanges shouldn’t be too bad especially not to the point where you’re marring the metal. Are the splines on the axle mushroomed at all??
I don't. Just super tight fit. This was my first time disassembling all of those parts. I had no prior experience with drive axles, so didn't know what to look for. They looked pretty old and worn, so maybe they were mushroomed. I had a similar challenge with the new dust caps I bought. The old ones came off easy peasy. Took the hand of God and Thor's hammer to pound the new ones on. After I did the first one, I realized I forgot the C-clip on the end of the drive axle. DOH! I literally had to destroy my new dust cap to get it back off. Had to buy a replacement for my replacement LOL
Started the holidays off early.
I was at Death Valley from Thursday to Sunday... We entered though Goler Canyon and Mengel Pass into Butte Valley.
and took Lippincott Road down from tThe Racetrack...
Very nice setup! Can't beat a comfortable ride, good company, and clear skies. I got into astronomy/ astrophotography a few years ago... Had no idea what I was getting into. Its relaxing compared to building my LX.
I had zero issues putting on the new ones. The old flange I didn’t show was nowhere near as bad and It went on a brand-new axle easily about 15k miles ago. Do you know if everything you used was OEM? Aftermarket stuff can be less cooperative and/or out of spec. There is also a possibility that the teeth on the axles may have deformed.
Yes, pita.. used nylon wire wheels, sand paper, acid, degreaser, and scotch bright.. still wasn’t perfect but good enough.
Couldn’t find more than one can of wheel paint in any local store so I got 3 cans of metallic silver paint, I think it is krylon silver at Walmart, surprisingly it matched perfectly with the center caps, and coated with some leftover automotive clear I had from a paint job I did recently.
Etching primer first.
Ripped out the old, put in new blower motor, blower resistor and HI speed relay. Replaced the lot seeing how the rest of the system is now brand new (except lines).
Old HI relay positive+ wire corroded and melted and fused against the plastic relay connector. AC wasn't working on HI setting so obvious the fault.
Re-used the old connector, and baught a similar sized/pin relay off eBay, however, not the OEM part. Identical though, actually blower relay for REAR AC in 100 series.
Had to break out the melted pin connector, clean it up, resolder it to fresh cable and slap it on the outside side while keep the other 3 pin connectors in the housing. The wrapped it up in electrical tape and put the insulation cover back on. I'm not waiting 6 weeks for the complete harness from JAPAN!
Soldered, heat shrinked and done. Working 100% .. seemed to make a bit of whine to start but gone away now.
Glued some new strip caulk around the blower box cover and rescrewed it down hard.
Tested. Working on HI, seems stronger and more consitent through the vents..Job done.
I seem to recall that some times the force of air coming through the vents would vary every now and then. Might have been faulty resistor. Will see if this still happens
Old HI relay positive+ wire corroded and melted and fused against the plastic relay connector. AC wasn't working on HI setting so obvious the fault.
Re-used the old connector, and baught a similar sized/pin relay off eBay, however, not the OEM part. Identical though, actually blower relay for REAR AC in 100 series.
Had to break out the melted pin connector, clean it up, resolder it to fresh cable and slap it on the outside side while keep the other 3 pin connectors in the housing. The wrapped it up in electrical tape and put the insulation cover back on. I'm not waiting 6 weeks for the complete harness from JAPAN!
Soldered, heat shrinked and done. Working 100% .. seemed to make a bit of whine to start but gone away now.
Glued some new strip caulk around the blower box cover and rescrewed it down hard.
Tested. Working on HI, seems stronger and more consitent through the vents..Job done.
I seem to recall that some times the force of air coming through the vents would vary every now and then. Might have been faulty resistor. Will see if this still happens
Installed a NAPA awning to test out if I like these, and relocated spare to roof. I thought it was fit perfectly below, but when chasing a sound from the rear, I noticed it has been rubbing the pan hard the whole time. Barely, but that’s too much for me. Time to get material for a bumper and swing out.
Hmmm, I have the same size rims and tires and on occasion been hearing some rubbing noise and thought it was the tires, but now I'm thinking it might be the spare. I'll have to see if I need to adjust it. Would prefer to keep it underneath for now.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
All new door seals—these things are works of art—just incredible, and only about $75 ea, which sounds like a lot until you see the complexity of them.
Parts ordered from Partsouq last Friday night, even though with shipping it was about $10 more than stateside places. Sure enough, they showed up Tuesday, about when a US supplier would’ve been thinking about getting around to boxing them up. I kind of want a Partsouq morale patch.
Also repacked my left front wheel bearings.
Looks like this spindle got a little too hot at some point, as did the washers. But the bearings looked great….
Also did fluidfilm inside and out of the frame. And on most of the body underside. And on the spare—one down side of steelies ….
Parts ordered from Partsouq last Friday night, even though with shipping it was about $10 more than stateside places. Sure enough, they showed up Tuesday, about when a US supplier would’ve been thinking about getting around to boxing them up. I kind of want a Partsouq morale patch.
Also repacked my left front wheel bearings.
Looks like this spindle got a little too hot at some point, as did the washers. But the bearings looked great….
Also did fluidfilm inside and out of the frame. And on most of the body underside. And on the spare—one down side of steelies ….
The marks on your spindle indicate that the wheel bearing inner races have been spinning where they're not supposed to be. I'd inspect very carefully, because it's likely that the spindle and bearings are toasted.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Exactly what I thought, but the bearings looked great and had clearly been serviced recently, as PO records indicated. Possibly just marks from a long ago problem?
Spindle surface was still smooth--no grooves I could feel with a fingernail; anything else to look for?
What would cause spun inners, anyway? Catastrophic lubrication failure? Insufficient preload?
