I got exactly the same wheels. Center cap from the 18" Land Cruiser wheels fit the front wheels reasonably well.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (25 Viewers)
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I have the same wheels and my caps from my stock LC 16” rims fit the Tundra 18” just fine. I have seen some people just whack the dome of the dust cap flat, though I wouldn’t personally.
yah i'm not about that life either. the other thought although expensive is to use aftermarket wheel spacers to push the wheels out far enough for the OE cover to snap on. I'm still toying with the idea of hole sawing the cap and getting/source some plastic to cover that axel cap.
Tune-up before a 2,200-2,700 mile road trip to the middle of Wisconsin/Minnesota (depending on what we end up doing). Done several trips to FL and back but this will definitely be the longest trip in the truck and at 525,000 miles no less.
Doing:
Valve cover gaskets (Fel Pro kit)
Tube seals (these were either original or the whole cover had been replaced because the tabs had clearly never been bent back for replacement)
Spark Plugs (Denso TT)
Coils/boots and springs (Denso/Beck Arnley)
Both upper ball joints needed replacement (boots ripped and starting to creek), decided to do lower "while I was there" (Moog/555)
bearings grease and repack
pretty clean for 525K miles actually, been using BG EPR in the crankcase each oil change, not sure if that helped clean it up. I had incredible luck with this, every bolt came out, nothing stripped, broken, or stuck. Plugs were just as they should have been, the rear most coil was the only that didnt look good, seem to have some heat marks on it.
Doing:
Valve cover gaskets (Fel Pro kit)
Tube seals (these were either original or the whole cover had been replaced because the tabs had clearly never been bent back for replacement)
Spark Plugs (Denso TT)
Coils/boots and springs (Denso/Beck Arnley)
Both upper ball joints needed replacement (boots ripped and starting to creek), decided to do lower "while I was there" (Moog/555)
bearings grease and repack
pretty clean for 525K miles actually, been using BG EPR in the crankcase each oil change, not sure if that helped clean it up. I had incredible luck with this, every bolt came out, nothing stripped, broken, or stuck. Plugs were just as they should have been, the rear most coil was the only that didnt look good, seem to have some heat marks on it.
Sweeeet!
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Change the RHS CV shaft. Not a difficult job but still not very pleasant. It took me 3 hours and several minutes was spent reinstalling the diff seal. Never fun not having the right tools to reinstall this seal!
The CV shaft axle is massive !
The CV shaft axle is massive !
Heater "T"s, plus all hoses replaced, (about $120 at dealer) seems much easier just to do it all, makes easier going back together, also positioned the clamps so they are easier to get to. FYI, when removing the original hoses, use a box cutter to get hoses off, stay away from pliers, they will bend the heater pipes.
Replaced powers steering hoses, bled and flushed system, replaced reservoir. $110 reservoir was easier than spending hours cleaning the old one.
Installed a 6 gang switch panel, only using (2) of the (6), but will make adding lights down the road easier. Mounted the switch panel next to the fuse panel under hood, found to be the best spot. Modified the over head console to mount the switch.
Replaced powers steering hoses, bled and flushed system, replaced reservoir. $110 reservoir was easier than spending hours cleaning the old one.
Installed a 6 gang switch panel, only using (2) of the (6), but will make adding lights down the road easier. Mounted the switch panel next to the fuse panel under hood, found to be the best spot. Modified the over head console to mount the switch.
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Post a photo of the odometer, or it didn’t happen
Congrats on half a million miles. I’m a little jealous.
Post a photo of the odometer, or it didn’t happen
Here is from back in may.
It's a gem of winch for hobbyist level user. It has definitely gotten me out of trouble multiple times.
Original brake system? If not do you recall the mileage it failed at?
I don't have any records of it being changed.
cruiserpatch
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Two weeks ago I drove to the blue ridge mountains to make a video for a summer camp there. As I pulled up to the entrance I heard a squealing come from the engine bay. I quickly pulled over, and shut the engine off but it was too late. I heard a low boom and knew what happened but still could not believe it.
I bought my '99 LX470 in November of 2020 with 241K miles. The timing belt and water pump had been replaced one year before I bought the truck. Sadly the shop that did the job did not bother to replace the pulleys, or use the AISIN TKT-021 TB/WP kit.
My idler pulley exploded, the tensioner pulley seized, and the water pump (less than two years old mind you) seized as well. See pictures.
I was stuck in the mountains with a dead rig full of video equipment. I spent the next few days working since I had been paid to make a video for the camp. In my free time I ordered parts and tools needed to complete the job.
One of the full time employees at the camp happened to have a beautiful garage with just about everything I needed. His generosity still makes me tear up a bit.
I had the LX towed to just in front of Steve's garage and set to work once my time of employment had ended. I attended the camp, Ridge Haven growing up, and their response to my situation was equally as generous. They fed and housed me for as long as I needed to get back on the road.
I started working on Thursday and had to return to Atlanta by Saturday evening. By the grace of some higher power I was able to complete my first timing belt/water pump job in a relative stranger's garage with little-to-no preparation. Thank God for @OTRAMM youtube videos and @Timmy65 's most recent TB series.
Several write-ups on MUD helped me with a lot of the 2UZ-FE specific things for which I had to look out.
Got some help from Cruiser Outfitters and was able to have all the parts within about three days of ordering. Total was $556 for TB/WP/Tensioner/Thermostat/Gasket/FIPG/3 gallons of coolant/crankshaft holding tool
I was so lucky that Steve (garage owner) works on his Jeep (we'll give him a pass) as religiously as I do my LX.
As a word of advice, if you buy one of these rigs and the timing belt has "been replaced," it is absolutely worth looking at the pulleys etc. just in case the shop that did the job cheap skated it.
I bought my '99 LX470 in November of 2020 with 241K miles. The timing belt and water pump had been replaced one year before I bought the truck. Sadly the shop that did the job did not bother to replace the pulleys, or use the AISIN TKT-021 TB/WP kit.
My idler pulley exploded, the tensioner pulley seized, and the water pump (less than two years old mind you) seized as well. See pictures.
I was stuck in the mountains with a dead rig full of video equipment. I spent the next few days working since I had been paid to make a video for the camp. In my free time I ordered parts and tools needed to complete the job.
One of the full time employees at the camp happened to have a beautiful garage with just about everything I needed. His generosity still makes me tear up a bit.
I had the LX towed to just in front of Steve's garage and set to work once my time of employment had ended. I attended the camp, Ridge Haven growing up, and their response to my situation was equally as generous. They fed and housed me for as long as I needed to get back on the road.
I started working on Thursday and had to return to Atlanta by Saturday evening. By the grace of some higher power I was able to complete my first timing belt/water pump job in a relative stranger's garage with little-to-no preparation. Thank God for @OTRAMM youtube videos and @Timmy65 's most recent TB series.
Several write-ups on MUD helped me with a lot of the 2UZ-FE specific things for which I had to look out.
Got some help from Cruiser Outfitters and was able to have all the parts within about three days of ordering. Total was $556 for TB/WP/Tensioner/Thermostat/Gasket/FIPG/3 gallons of coolant/crankshaft holding tool
I was so lucky that Steve (garage owner) works on his Jeep (we'll give him a pass) as religiously as I do my LX.
As a word of advice, if you buy one of these rigs and the timing belt has "been replaced," it is absolutely worth looking at the pulleys etc. just in case the shop that did the job cheap skated it.
cruiserpatch
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I'm happy to report that I was able to drive back safely to Atlanta. I have had some issues with what I can only assume would be timing. No knocking or terrible symptoms, but something just does not seem to be functioning properly.
I ran a compression test and got extremely promising results on all cylinders (180+ psi on all cylinders).
I popped the timing covers off to inspect the timing marks. Even got Peter Merriam to check it out. Everything appears to be in time but I'm not convinced.
I will continue to update on my progress for trouble shooting this. In the meantime, it's at least encouraging to know it's in time.
Patch
I ran a compression test and got extremely promising results on all cylinders (180+ psi on all cylinders).
I popped the timing covers off to inspect the timing marks. Even got Peter Merriam to check it out. Everything appears to be in time but I'm not convinced.
I will continue to update on my progress for trouble shooting this. In the meantime, it's at least encouraging to know it's in time.
Patch
Is that left cam is off to left by one teeth? I'm a totally newbee done one and only timing belt job though.
cruiserpatch
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The belt markings don't matter after the install as I understand it, but I saw that too and pondered. Perhaps the belt slipped a tooth while I was installing it but if that were the case I would be getting some serious problems.
Been prepping for CO so the last 2-3 weeks I rebuilt my hubs and spindles with all new bearings, bushings, seals, etc. New UCAs from Blackhawk, new ICON 2.5s all around, new 35x12.5r18 Toyo ATIIIs, new diff bushings, new heater hoses to match my new coolant hoses from my timing belt job in March, new trans cooler lines, new power steering lines, new Duralast H8 AGM battery, and repacked my CVs (F that job). I just need to clean my dissent skids, install the last rear ICON, check the remaining fluids, and hit the road.
what did the power coating cost you and did it include sand blasting. thx
Cheap man's catch can, will be interesting to see how effective this is, will be swapping the original filter with some stainless mesh, better than nothing
Also have a new found respect for braided hose.. Its a dog to cut through
Also have a new found respect for braided hose.. Its a dog to cut through
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