What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (59 Viewers)

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Etched and powder coated my @Victory 4x4 front and rear bumpers.

Hoping to install them soon.

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More pictures in my build thread.
 
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To follow up on my master cylinder install, I got a chance to install new calipers all around. Also did a full brake bleed with wifey’s assistance. Went through more than an entire gallon of brake fluid since I re-bled 3 times.
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Also thought I still had an issue with my brakes after I did all this. Still felt dragging...turned out my CDL indicator isn’t working on the dash. Turned off and all is well. I was doing research for a good part of the morning until I decided to check. 🤦 I need to relocate it or block it off then fix the dash light issue.

Snowed today so did some brake tests as well. Happy to be able to drive her after 4 weeks of waiting on parts and finding some time to do the work.
 
the ‘rough’ part of the idle is when at a red light and happens intermittently every 10 or 15 seconds.
What RPMs is it idling at and are they fluctuating while stopped? Any DTCs? Any change with ambient temps? Given what you’ve already replaced, I’d be combing over every vacuum hose looking for a leak.
 
...turned out my CDL indicator isn’t working on the dash.
More than likely it’s the indicator switch on the transfer case. Do a search - $15 part and 15-20 minutes to change.
 
Your truck looks great especially that color is second to none, despite @MongooseGA might say ;)
To get the truck out, I'd try to let the air out of the tires to see if it would work.
Thanks! The Gold/Champagne wasn't my fave, but it's grown on me.
I was actually able to clear the garage by removing my awning mounts... Not visible in there picture.
 
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Finally did the heaterTs!! Crumbly AF! Do it before 196k people!! LOL! Hope I got all the pieces, DS one was like wet cardboard and it came apart in the hose when I touched it...
 
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Replaced the master window controller PCB so that I have working lights again. For those that are interested the part number is 84820-60100. I bought a cheap Chinese version off eBay, took the PCB out and switched them. I also noticed that my driver's window switch felt a little off so I replaced the small plastic piece that sits on the spring with the one from the donor (black piece shown sitting on the white back plate). Images are to show the difference between the two. The door lock buttons are different along with the window lock button and the OEM is brown. If anyone is good at doddering and can make out the LEDs an image of the OEM board is also below to show what you'll need.

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Replaced on my 2000 TLC w/121K (as a preventative maintenance) the fan clutch and blade, thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, radiator, condenser and the condenser fan and put all new bushings, nut and bolts all around. Truck runs between 184F-188F now, I was running 188F-200F before. The condenser looked really bad.
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I replaced my outer tie rods! I’m not very mechanically inclined, so this one was a bit deal for me! It was a quite the pain at times, but seems pretty good not that it’s done. Plus, saved me over $400, so I can’t complain about that. I forgot to take pictures of the old tie rods, but they were definitely rough. The boots were all ripped and they were very easy to move by hand.
 
Took Rhino Rack pioneer platform off again. Added appropriate spaces to the HD platform bars (series 1 Pioneer Platform to newer RCH legs). While at it , cut out whatever rust I could and stains in paint with a cutting pad and some Turtle Wax cutting compound. Couple rust spots have gotten some roots growing and would need sanding out then repriming and painting. Removed rust from sunroof glass with some steel scourer - few scratches in glass wont do again, however probably needed it as deep stain (cant notice it though). Then buffed entire surface until shining schmick with some Bowdens carnauba wax (love the small of that stuff banana mixed with bubblegum)

Overall not too bad , should hold up, will inspect some time down the track. Might do a patch job on it if continues to grow. No 1 can see the roof though, maybe even pay a shop to fix it all one day in the future. Windscreen top rust first though. Ahh, sweaty job but glad its finished
 
Finished installing a heap of metal. Thanks to @TRAIL TAILOR for the parts - TourFlex Heavy setup from Toughdog, with the 53mm Ralp's upfront and the adjustable foam cells in back. The control arms were tricky to fit but now the rear drive shaft sits just right. Incidentally, I can't get out of the garage now :confused:

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I can NOT emphasize this enough........get some clear film ala LaminX and apply to the lowers of the rear shocks. If you drive gravel of any sort, the thin paint will wear, the shocks will pit and start to rust. Ask me how I know. If you put a clear film on the shocks, they should last just fine.
 
I finally got around to resealing the evap cover to stop the annoying drips onto the carpet. Cleaned out all the crap, not as much as I thought there would be after 22 years.

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This was much easier than I thought it would be after reading through the threads. The key is to remove the lower bolt and upper nut from the dash brace marked with arrows here. With that loose, the lower dash had plenty of flex to get to the screw behind it and get the cover out and back in without too much fuss.

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I didn't feel like going to the dealer to get the gasket, and had a big roll of marine-grade butyl tape that I use to seal things on the boat. If it's good enough to keep salt spray out of rail bases, it should be good enough to seal this cover.

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Also installed a new rear wiper arm and blade, no more saggy old nasty one!

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Installed the OWL media holder (remove the cassette guts and use the space to bolt the holder). I then attached two of RAM mount balls, medium clamps to two X holders, one for my phone and the other for an old Samsung Tab A, and purchased some magnetic USB cables that rotate and fold to 90 degrees. I down loaded GAIA, plotted a map at home on the computer, opened up on tablet. Drove out to the trail, and it worked like a charm without any network or wifi connection!!! Also installed a bluetooth OBD II and installed the Torque pro ap, would really like to figure out the whole PID thing. Seems like the radiator temp was working, the RPM, speedo and the GPS altimeter, but seems like there is much more to it. My original reason was to be able to clear CAT codes that cause the Check Engine Light to come on.
Got any pics of your dual ram mount balls installation @bdobyns? I'm running a single on my OWL at present but was contemplating the addition of another.
Cheers mate,
G
 
installed asfir skids


got rid of DIY cabinets and going with stack storage boxes, so i can have a trunk when not camping
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mounted and balanced full size spare
I really like your storage solution. I've been considering those same containers.
 
installed asfir skids
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got rid of DIY cabinets and going with stack storage boxes, so i can have a trunk when not camping
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mounted and balanced full size spare
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Very nice storage solution! That’s exactly why a drawer system wouldn’t work for me because I like the cargo area open if I need to load up stuff. Are those Home Depot containers? (I assumed they were because of the Husky brand).
 
Very nice storage solution! That’s exactly why a drawer system wouldn’t work for me because I like the cargo area open if I need to load up stuff. Are those Home Depot containers? (I assumed they were because of the Husky brand).
yes they are, and are "waterproof" so if needed i can move some to the roof rack

also, i can have different boxes ready to go for different camp outs. i just switch boxes and do inventory when i have to. its a much more organized and modular system for me.

and this way i can configure in multiple ways, have back seats down or up, move fridge to the seats, i can do alot more not having my old plywood diy cabinet back there.
 

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