What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (36 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Installed the Ironman 4x4 1000mm twin drawer. They came pre-assembled with pretty good instruction. Took me slightly over an hour to get it installed, all by myself.
Initially impressions: they are strong, heavy and should carry a lot of stuff. They don't open all the way (kinda like ARB, Dobinson and a few others) but the last 20% of the drawer space that doesn't open is not too hard to get to. Also, they don't stay open if you are on an incline since the slides don't have a "locked-open" feature!
Interior space is nicely lined and the top is covered with marine type carpet.

Before:
20201022_134839.jpg


After:
20210121_155316.jpg
20210121_155347.jpg
 
A few weeks ago I was forced to dump her into a big ditch in the snow. (That's another story) The result was busting out the rear quarter window and a little body damage.

View attachment 2560345

Temporary fix was plastic and duct tape. Did great at keeping the water out.
View attachment 2560347

This is why it was water tight. The tape adhesive left a mess. Plastic scraper and Goo Gone assisted in removal.

View attachment 2560354

New to me window sourced from @Deftoned40. Fair price, prompt delivery with excellent packaging.
Primer applied to bare metal.View attachment 2560366
1800-LIFELINE
 
When I hit the elk months ago and mangled the fender and fender apron, it cracked the junction block. I didn’t know it was cracked until a couple of weeks ago when we got a rare rain here in AZ and my 100 started doing a bunch of weird $hit. Looked around and found the junction block essentially broken into a couple of pieces.

There’s like 10 part numbers for the junction block, varying by model year, Atrac, AHc, single or dual AC, etc. The one I bought and installed was 82720-60023, which, IIRC, is for 2000-2002 with ATRAC and dual AC. Mine came with most of the relays and fuses already installed, but I did have to swap 3-4 over from my old one.

@JunkCrzr89 what did that run ya? around $300 right? cause iirc thats the fix sometimes for the immobilizer issue as well.
 
@JunkCrzr89 what did that run ya? around $300 right? cause iirc thats the fix sometimes for the immobilizer issue as well.
Cost me $460, which was the cheapest I could find. Although it could be had for $365 + shipping from Partsouq, they were out of stock of the one I needed. But yes, replacing the junction block is also sometimes the fix for both the immobilizer and EFI problems, depending on which variant of the problem one has.
 
Finally blacked out the cladding and rims. Took a bit longer than expected to get everything done I wanted to, but can’t believe how much better it looks. Once I had one side done I couldn’t stand to look at the other side. The darker rims were a must too, just didn’t think it looked right with silver rims once the cladding was black. 2/3 is plastidip as I didn’t know how it would turn out, but once I knew I liked it I used rattle can truck bed liner for the driver side. Sliders finally painted as well. Tires look really faded but they’re 3 years old and only a few thousand miles left, so they’ll match better soon. Next step is window tinting, it’ll look even better once that’s complete, not to mention the extra privacy (I sleep in it) and the protection from the Nevada summer sun.
F4C9422C-D62A-4EEA-A335-6F5DEB23196B.jpeg
8282BABE-259B-477A-93F2-8A67DBE8B00C.jpeg
2A0A571F-71FA-48CA-8318-4EA59C3216B2.jpeg
 
Finally blacked out the cladding and rims. Took a bit longer than expected to get everything done I wanted to, but can’t believe how much better it looks. Once I had one side done I couldn’t stand to look at the other side. The darker rims were a must too, just didn’t think it looked right with silver rims once the cladding was black. 2/3 is plastidip as I didn’t know how it would turn out, but once I knew I liked it I used rattle can truck bed liner for the driver side. Sliders finally painted as well. Tires look really faded but they’re 3 years old and only a few thousand miles left, so they’ll match better soon. Next step is window tinting, it’ll look even better once that’s complete, not to mention the extra privacy (I sleep in it) and the protection from the Nevada summer sun. View attachment 2561257View attachment 2561258View attachment 2561259
Dude this is brilliant! Love it!
My truck is pretty much the same color with ARB bumper and a few blemishes. I have been debating using ta darker color on the claddings for ages now! This gives me a great visual!

Mine:
20201024_173720.jpg
 
Finally blacked out the cladding and rims. Took a bit longer than expected to get everything done I wanted to, but can’t believe how much better it looks. Once I had one side done I couldn’t stand to look at the other side. The darker rims were a must too, just didn’t think it looked right with silver rims once the cladding was black. 2/3 is plastidip as I didn’t know how it would turn out, but once I knew I liked it I used rattle can truck bed liner for the driver side. Sliders finally painted as well. Tires look really faded but they’re 3 years old and only a few thousand miles left, so they’ll match better soon. Next step is window tinting, it’ll look even better once that’s complete, not to mention the extra privacy (I sleep in it) and the protection from the Nevada summer sun. View attachment 2561257View attachment 2561258View attachment 2561259
I like that look. How did you mount the 7 pin in the OEM bumper like that? did you have to drill through the rear crossmember?
 
View attachment 2561307Thanks @ClassyJalopy I think you should, your truck will look even better with it. Just keep in mind the rims looked odd afterwards and I had to paint those too. Polycarb pad on a drill to scuff them up, rustoleum clean metal primer, black spray paint, and an afternoon did the trick nicely though View attachment 2561306
Looks good!, yeah, don't forget the hubcaps. Might want to find some black lug nuts too, Don't forget the spare.
 
20210122_125904.jpg
Picked up a set of Dick Cepek Trail Country EXP'S for $170 a piece and had them installed Wednesday. My KO2'S were ready to be changed out after about 50k. So far I really like them. Much beefer tread than the KO's and more aggressive looking. Definitely a little louder but nothing crazy. I'll be interested in seeing how the hold up over the next few years but happy today! Apologies for the dirty rims...
 
View attachment 2561918Picked up a set of Dick Cepek Trail Country EXP'S for $170 a piece and had them installed Wednesday. My KO2'S were ready to be changed out after about 50k. So far I really like them. Much beefer tread than the KO's and more aggressive looking. Definitely a little louder but nothing crazy. I'll be interested in seeing how the hold up over the next few years but happy today! Apologies for the dirty rims...
No apology for dirt, never!
 
Bought a set of weathertech mats; not super impressed overall. I had to break out my heatgun to form it to all the contours. For 200cdn, I sure had higher expectations.
 
Bought a set of weathertech mats; not super impressed overall. I had to break out my heatgun to form it to all the contours. For 200cdn, I sure had higher expectations.
I have the old steel imprint husky classics in mine and have had them in every Toyota suv I’ve owned since 95. Wish they still made em i need a
Rear liner
 
Installed my ASFIR Aluminum Skid Plate today. I had a missing center bolt holding my original "lower engine cover"... Turns out it is broken off in the crossmember.
00110ADD-0C0D-490F-B6F3-BF7A36442437.jpeg


My original cover was rusted through where the foam rubber is glued. Why would they use an open cell foam that retains moisture? The foam looks almost brand new... Also, it turns out the cover was being held on by only 4 bolts instead of the normal 8. The things you find on used vehicles... I'm thinking this was a used part off of a junkyard vehicle as it has the only rust on the entire undercarriage.
F0A066B5-C97F-471B-95F4-D291CA88E0A0.jpeg
 
Swapped boot clamps on my cv’s. Cranked the McMaster cars pretty tight but don’t want to break em and there’s still a bit a grease spitting still. How tight should they be?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom