These were a bit fiddly and time consuming to install but imo the fit and finish turned out pretty good and we're really happy with them!
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (57 Viewers)
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finally figured this out , mount clips straight on the condenser. makes complete sense. these mount clips were so s***. , didn't even lock in so loose. had to use lighter and melt the ends. Might order some decent ones off ebay that actually work. No manual instruction on how to use either. Still seems to work. OMG its heaps colder just idling now. Might add another and move the A/T cooler forward. Should be awesome.
Hows this look anyone? bit sad this is the area the fan is sitting on lol
Hows this look anyone? bit sad this is the area the fan is sitting on lol
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Looks like a Dissent bumper.
ktmracer01
SILVER Star
really like those gull wings, very niceThese were a bit fiddly and time consuming to install but imo the fit and finish turned out pretty good and we're really happy with them!
Is that fuse box seal a Toyota part?
Mcmaster carr #1177N15
I saw it on a build thread, but it’s just a square o ring I believe 3’ long. Cost $12ish to my door.
Stripped down passenger front hub to repack bearings. Some barbarian used gasket goop to seal the flange, which squidged up into the cone washers, so the whole thing was an ordeal. Thanks for the tips in various threads, @2001LC! The hub itself is pretty rusty, with all the coating flaked off. Is it worth disassembling and coating with POR15 to prevent further rust? Also, the bearings look in decent shape but are clearly not OEM - stamp says SKF/China. Worth replacing with Timken, or leave it if they’re in ok shape? I have a feeling my slop was due to improper preload/ clip spacing.
Got a link?
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
AGREED! Mine blew at 116k! Do them every 100, the 10 min job is worth it!Change your heater T’s. This mf left me stranded. Did today and bought a couple extras. OEM because its gonna last another 390k
View attachment 2547967
Noticed one of my OEM brake lights was out. Disappointed it only lasted 17 years. 
Decided to go ahead and swap everything to LED (headlights and reverse lights are already LED), so ordered Sylvania LEDs all around and replaced the direction relay (that was more of a pain than I expected), really like how bright and clean these lights look.
Decided to go ahead and swap everything to LED (headlights and reverse lights are already LED), so ordered Sylvania LEDs all around and replaced the direction relay (that was more of a pain than I expected), really like how bright and clean these lights look.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I'd suggest the following:
1. Yes, replace the bearings and races at the same time. Keep them as matched pairs.
2. If your hub is rusty, be very careful about applying any coating. It may be best to simply use a wire brush and/or "weak" grinding tool to get rid of the surface rust. If you choose to apply a coating, ensure that it doesn't enter the hub cavity at all costs. It will make reinstalling races a complete PITA.
3. If you can, it may be worth it to remove the castle nuts and completely remove the spindle at the same time for inspection and cleaning. Pay attention to the seals and spindle bearing; if those look old and the bearing has any signs of wear, replace them. You may struggle with the ABS sensor removal - most of us do, and patience is the key for removal and reinstallation due to the gunk and potential rust build up.
4. Don't forget to get some fresh grease in the spindle itself so that the needle bearing has a happy life of service.
5. New cone washers and a fresh hub flange makes removal and reinstallation so much easier the next few times. Your brass hammer will be very grateful.
6. It is also a great opportunity to replace wheel/hub flange studs if any of them are questionable.
Removed and replaced AHC switch with a new lil dirt catcher thing. While I was in there I removed the seat heater switches, shifter bezel, and PWR/2nd switches AND cleaned out 15 years of crumbs and crap that accumulated.
Looks like a decent respectable console area now.
Looks like a decent respectable console area now.
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Some LED hatch lights inspired by TLCFAQ:
I need this setup for fishing. I even purchased the light already. Was the cable routing easy enough? Where did you bring power from?
