Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Changed a tire at 1130p in the road. Boy learned that people don't pay attention to lights. I bet if we didn't have the damn sliders off repainting them damage would have been minimal.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (38 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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I thought federal law prohibits re-sale of used cat converters?
Stupid ppl in their garbage cars
I haven't heard that one, but there's a guy that comes to every car shop in my area buying cats, actually several guys and i make them do a bidding war. Honda cats go for as much as $500, but that Prius cat is worth its weight in gold.
Actually, they are worth their weight in platinum (Pt), along with palladium (Pd), and rhodium (Rh). Not sure about the Federal offense but in Virginia a custom exhaust builder friend of mine advised he has to keep records of the converters he has pulled and installed.
Actually, they are worth their weight in platinum (Pt), along with palladium (Pd), and rhodium (Rh). Not sure about the Federal offense but in Virginia a custom exhaust builder friend of mine advised he has to keep records of the converters he has pulled and installed.
Interesting, my shop is also in VA, i will look into this, don't want to get in trouble and risk losing the shop's license. Cars come in with P420 codes and we/customers buy their own cats and we install it and keep their old cats. We sell it as scraps, same with old rotors and radiators.
Found this after doing a quick search: The ISRI State Scrap Laws are subject to change and readers should visit Metals Theft Law Database | ISRI to make certain they are reading the most recent version of ISRI's summaries of the State Metals Theft Laws.
Title 59.1. Trade and Commerce
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Damn people have their heads firmly inserted in their derrieres. A couple of months ago my wife broke down on a busy street at 8pm on a Saturday. I rushed over put my Lexus behind her flipped on the hazards and called a tow truck. While we waited literally dozens of people pulled up right behind the Lexus and then got pissed off that nobody was moving when the traffic light turned green. Not only that it didn't stop when the tow truck got there. He had the full light bar on top and people still kept doing it. Tow truck guy said people do it even when the cops sit behind him with their lights on for his protection. Side of the road has to be one of the most dangerous place to be. Hope everyone is ok and the damage can be fixed
Looking killer @sammybones! Definitely going with those Foam Cell Pros once my OMEs wear out. It's going to handle even better once you get those spacers on! Made a night and day difference for me!
Flushed the power steering and replaced with full synthetic fluid.
Since I got the LC last September, I have gradually worked through preventative maintenance. Next up is an AHC flush.
Extremely rewarding to learn this vehicle and make fixes on my own. Thanks to all the mudders who help!
Since I got the LC last September, I have gradually worked through preventative maintenance. Next up is an AHC flush.
Extremely rewarding to learn this vehicle and make fixes on my own. Thanks to all the mudders who help!
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BadReligion
SILVER Star
Nothing crazy...just taking care of some worn sensors and a motor. I have been battling an intermittent P0420 code for several years. I changed out the downstream DS O2 sensor and that worked for a few years, but then code returned. I would only get it when it was cold and I was driving at low speed and RPMs. I figured I would change out all of the sensors and see if that helps. Upon removing the DS downstream, one of the entire studs came out. After comparing gaskets and marks to the PS, I think the DS sensor was not fully seated, allowing a very small gap at the gasket that when cold, would leak air and trigger the P0420 code. When warm, the metal expanded enough to seal it off. Used tap/die on the stud and hole, and I'm at 500mi so far with no code so hopefully that does the trick. If not, fuel pump is next.
After TB/WP/Rad, etc....I was hauling some gravel (6k# worth) and panicked when I saw my oil pressure gauge sitting BELOW the last mark. I thought I may have gotten some debris in the valves when the valve covers or intake manifold was off, which led to a blocked oil galley and no pressure. However, truck seemed to be running fine. After a quick search, it looks like the oil pressure sending unit was the likely culprit. I'm used to these gauges reading low, but this was off the scale low and did not fluctuate with RPM. At cold start up the next morning, it did go up a little (right at first mark) and moved slightly with RPM, but within minutes was back to off the scale low. These are a simple sensor and just measure resistance, which increases with temp, so it must have been on its way out. For piece of mind, I ordered up a manual oil pressure gauge with the new sending unit and was able to confirm the oil PSI was WNL at 4-5 at idle, and 65 at 3000 rpm. New gauge starts out at 1/2 mark, goes up with RPM, then settles to the 1/4 mark at idle but still goes up with increasing RPM, which is pretty much normal. All fixed.
Last fix was a worn wiper motor, which left the front wipers getting "stuck" halfway through the cycle. Thanks to another thread on 'MUD, this was another easy fix once I had the new motor. LX is now doing well with ZERO issues and completely caught up on PM. It seriously drives better at 200k than the 2020 rental Chevy Suburban we recently drove on a trip.
After TB/WP/Rad, etc....I was hauling some gravel (6k# worth) and panicked when I saw my oil pressure gauge sitting BELOW the last mark. I thought I may have gotten some debris in the valves when the valve covers or intake manifold was off, which led to a blocked oil galley and no pressure. However, truck seemed to be running fine. After a quick search, it looks like the oil pressure sending unit was the likely culprit. I'm used to these gauges reading low, but this was off the scale low and did not fluctuate with RPM. At cold start up the next morning, it did go up a little (right at first mark) and moved slightly with RPM, but within minutes was back to off the scale low. These are a simple sensor and just measure resistance, which increases with temp, so it must have been on its way out. For piece of mind, I ordered up a manual oil pressure gauge with the new sending unit and was able to confirm the oil PSI was WNL at 4-5 at idle, and 65 at 3000 rpm. New gauge starts out at 1/2 mark, goes up with RPM, then settles to the 1/4 mark at idle but still goes up with increasing RPM, which is pretty much normal. All fixed.
Last fix was a worn wiper motor, which left the front wipers getting "stuck" halfway through the cycle. Thanks to another thread on 'MUD, this was another easy fix once I had the new motor. LX is now doing well with ZERO issues and completely caught up on PM. It seriously drives better at 200k than the 2020 rental Chevy Suburban we recently drove on a trip.
Shade tree mechanics (literally) at its best...started out to replace the contact in my original and failing starter.
All was going well until the neck of the starter broke off in the engine block...
With a whole lot of drilling, dremeling, pounding, cursing, praying and advise from Mud I got the broken neck out.
The ordeal will continue later this week...
With a whole lot of drilling, dremeling, pounding, cursing, praying and advise from Mud I got the broken neck out.
The ordeal will continue later this week...
Went from this
To this
Basically ditched the RTT in favor of two double swags and a ARB awning with integrated light. Vehicle is noticeably less top heavy and my AHC is happy again!
Also whipped up a quick release awning bracket which slides into my crossbars. Added some tabs to my front cross bars for hooking my ratchet straps to and hard mounted the ratchets on the rear bar to ease strapping the swags down. Added a little tab to the back of the awning to hold the power cord for the awning light up and out of the way also. Only had time for one light coat of paint before 4 days of camping in solid rain so needless to say it’s time for a sand and repaint!
To this
Got the AHC sensor hooked up to the SPC UCA bracket. One thing I did that I hope pays off was to mark the sensor arm position at full droop before I disassembled anything. Then I reattached the sensor arm at full droop. As the last step, I jacked up each control arm to make sure the sensor arm has a full range of motion from the lowest to the highest setting.
I left the adjuster loose so I can fine-tune it using Techstream once I get everything back together.
I made decent progress this morning until I got into reinstalling the hubs and wheel bearings. I need to replace one of the claw washers and a couple of adjustment nuts.
The brake shield and retainer ring cleaned up good. I had some old hammer finish Rustoleum that I bought years ago for some other project. The retainer ring gasket was ok. The original retainer ring looks like it had some type of brass plating. This should look close to like it did when it was new.
I left the adjuster loose so I can fine-tune it using Techstream once I get everything back together.
I made decent progress this morning until I got into reinstalling the hubs and wheel bearings. I need to replace one of the claw washers and a couple of adjustment nuts.
The brake shield and retainer ring cleaned up good. I had some old hammer finish Rustoleum that I bought years ago for some other project. The retainer ring gasket was ok. The original retainer ring looks like it had some type of brass plating. This should look close to like it did when it was new.
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Damn Son! You just paid yourself about 2K! Good work!
The underside of your rig looks amazing! What do you use to make it so clean?
It was a mess when I got it. I just wipe it down with Kerosene. Also, I use a product from NAPA named RuGlyde to clean in areas with rubber.
