I'll get some measurements later today, it's gonna settle a little.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (57 Viewers)
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I think I might have dodged a bullet...I couldn't verify when the heater T's had been changed, so I took today off to do some "catch up" things around the house...and this was one of them. 1 hour to get them off, 3 minutes to get them back on...the cable type flexible hose clamp pliers certainly made a difference.
I think the one that shattered was the "hot" side...and the other one almost came out whole...I have 167K on the clock...so we are good for a little while more.
Amazon product ASIN B01M5KCAXI
I did figure out that one side worked better than the other in opening the clamps...also checked the torque on the valve covers...yep...loose.
We finally have warm weather here in NoVA, so, next is cutting the grass, then out for a bike ride...TGIF
I think the one that shattered was the "hot" side...and the other one almost came out whole...I have 167K on the clock...so we are good for a little while more.
Amazon product ASIN B01M5KCAXI
I did figure out that one side worked better than the other in opening the clamps...also checked the torque on the valve covers...yep...loose.
We finally have warm weather here in NoVA, so, next is cutting the grass, then out for a bike ride...TGIF
A quick, instant gratification project this rainy, misty day in the jungle. Just rattle can flat black. but still looks good.
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CasaDeChaos
SILVER Star
Had a busy two weeks. Got the winch mount and recovery points two weekends ago and painted. Ended up with a radiator leak that needed to be addressed, so decided to order a CSF and upper and lower hoses for replacement from RockAuto to be done at the same time. Things went relatively well and I learned some things in the process.
Here are lots of pics to document.
Here are lots of pics to document.
CasaDeChaos
SILVER Star
I also ordered and installed the updated rear wiper. Got at least a few more MPGs with it.
Changed the front and rear diff fluid along with the transfer case. Also greased all the zerk fittings. Had a little help. Once I was done and everything was put away, the new fuel filter showed up. Will do that tomorrow.
Since we got signed up for HIH X, we made the silly decision to take our newly acquired "old beater", instead of one of our already prepared DDs. In taking a spare vehicle, that was originally intended to remain a mostly stock run around the neighborhood vehicle, we've done some "very bad things", trying to get it ready for HIH, and the associated drive to/from the event.
AHC removed, Tough Dog and Trail Tailor kit installed (also side steps removed for TT sliders):
Yes, It still needs tires.
I know. I know.
Also installed a Trail Tailor Hidden Winch mount, with a cheap Chinese Smittybilt winch:
I know, it's not a US made Warn, it's made in China, and it will never work when needed.
( @TRAIL TAILOR Thanks for the great parts and quick shipping during the zombie apocalypse! )
AHC removed, Tough Dog and Trail Tailor kit installed (also side steps removed for TT sliders):
Yes, It still needs tires.
I know. I know.
Also installed a Trail Tailor Hidden Winch mount, with a cheap Chinese Smittybilt winch:
I know, it's not a US made Warn, it's made in China, and it will never work when needed.
( @TRAIL TAILOR Thanks for the great parts and quick shipping during the zombie apocalypse! )
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I finally adjusted my Torsion bars and think I got my neutral pressures back to spec.
Took me a while to figure out where the bolt for the adjustment was...just behind the front doors is where that 30mm guy lives...staring at you.
did 3 full turns on passenger side and 4 on drivers. Before and after hub to fender heights were :
driver 19 and 8/16 inches and after 4 turns =19 and 12/16 inches
Passenger 19 7/16 inches and after 3 turns =19 11/16 inches
Neutral pressures before adjustement:
After adjustment:
Ride does feels nicer
Took me a while to figure out where the bolt for the adjustment was...just behind the front doors is where that 30mm guy lives...staring at you.
did 3 full turns on passenger side and 4 on drivers. Before and after hub to fender heights were :
driver 19 and 8/16 inches and after 4 turns =19 and 12/16 inches
Passenger 19 7/16 inches and after 3 turns =19 11/16 inches
Neutral pressures before adjustement:
After adjustment:
Ride does feels nicer
looks very good, a lot of folks like to black out it out but this is a much better look and looks OEM.
prepared for mounting my new tires which i plan to get next week by trimming the fenders. too many pictures to post here but i made a how to thread. how to trim fenders AKA pinch weld mod
here's a few though
here's a few though
Whats more fun than wrench on one 100 series?
Two 100 series.
Just basic maintenance and checking fluids and hoses.
P.S. the silver 04 on the right is for sale.
Two 100 series.
Just basic maintenance and checking fluids and hoses.
P.S. the silver 04 on the right is for sale.
Greasing the chassis right now, the seals on these slip yokes are incredibly strong. Tried to push it out prolly a few mm's before giving up and leaving it.
smacked the tubes hard (with hand only) , thought I heard air escape at one stage. Is there any good strategy to break the seals and help the old grease through the tubes?
The fzj105R (105 series) chassis layout is different, the back shaft is flipped with 2 grease points in the middle. This seem right?
Front yoke came out quite a bit before it started leaking from the front not the tube. Gave up cause it was pushing the tube out more and more.
Back yoke Before
Back yoke after quite a few pumps.
U joints went fine could hear the breakages in the seals. Kept pumping until I could see mostly clean grease.
Not game to take it for a drive yet, is there a way to break the yoke seals before I get in it and drive, moreover , is it safe? Cheers
smacked the tubes hard (with hand only) , thought I heard air escape at one stage. Is there any good strategy to break the seals and help the old grease through the tubes?
The fzj105R (105 series) chassis layout is different, the back shaft is flipped with 2 grease points in the middle. This seem right?
Front yoke came out quite a bit before it started leaking from the front not the tube. Gave up cause it was pushing the tube out more and more.
Back yoke Before
Back yoke after quite a few pumps.
U joints went fine could hear the breakages in the seals. Kept pumping until I could see mostly clean grease.
Not game to take it for a drive yet, is there a way to break the yoke seals before I get in it and drive, moreover , is it safe? Cheers
K so kept pumpin grease came out after 50 so pumps. Back yoke was black as. Kept pumpin until I could see clean blue . Funny thing is after pumping until I saw clean it seemed to completely seal up again .. weird
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I gently kissed and caressed the steering wheel then whispered "you motherf***er" when it softly clunked going into reverse.
Sounds like the great beginning to what is destined to be a classic novel.
Hi!
New to the forum.
Just painted HDJ 100 with U Pol Raptor bed liner.
It took 3 days to strip,sand and paint. Very happy with the result.
New to the forum.
Just painted HDJ 100 with U Pol Raptor bed liner.
It took 3 days to strip,sand and paint. Very happy with the result.
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I did this yesterdsyvsnd stopped before seeing nee grease. I was getting worried I was gonna break something as I kept seeing the shaft slide further and further out. I gave the front and rear about 30 pumps.
Yeah , yeah turns out you just keep giving it to her , more and more pumps. I was even more worried on the back yoke when I had actually pumped all the crap grease well and truly out of that circle piece, then it pretty much sealed up once again , was truly weird and kept pushing out more. Gave up because I had pumped plenty of the crud out and was seeing fresh grease until , wiped it twice then it sealed over again. Really want to know what is happening there, because that could be crap causing it to seal up and not getting through.
Took it for a drive and just feels more connected through the drive line , like the yokes probably originally were suppsoed to be pushed out that far but over the years have come in a bit through lack of grease and pressure.
The joints I pumped until I saw fresh bright red grease. Those slip yokes though were worrying me. It's not hard to get to them. Front is harder, but would only take 15 minutes to get back under there. I thought I had read somewhere that you could over grease those yokes. That's what was in the back of my mind. Maybe someone else will chime in too.
